Wednesday, December 31, 2008

Tramping tales for December 2008

Ever thought to shower with a battalion of black sand crickets? Lea began December with that experience… She thought the hot water would soon send them packing, it simply kept them scattering around her with a few taking refuge in the folds of the shower curtain. All spruced up, we set off SW of Dalby to meet Bill and Lorna Glasson. Bill’s mother was a Howman descended from the Australian pioneer Howman’s and we spent a very happy morning with them beginning our social roll for the festive season.


Bill proved to be a delightful 85 year young man in fine fettle and we can vouch for Lorna making the best rosella jam.

We spent a week loitering around the good bush camps in their area- despite the Darling Downs being very flat land with dyke – like storage reservoirs rising out of the ground for flood irrigation of cotton and sorgum fields.

Our attention was caught by the size of prickly pears growing alongside the road into Dalby. Apparently this is “nothing” compared to its proliferation at the turn of the last century! The alien prickly pear, planted as a hedge in the 1850’s resulted in an impenetrable 26 million hectares covering the land between Dalby and Roma by 1920 that outside help was sought in the form of 3000 million moth eggs. Unlike the cane toad, these Cactoblastis cactorum larvae solved the problem in short order with no adverse repercussions and in recognition of its service to Queensland, a memorial hall, the only one of its kind to an insect, is to be found at Chinchilla.

En route for Toowoomba we spotted the historic Jondaryan Woolshed and decided it was worth spending the day there and over-nighting in the little caravan park attached. We stepped back into the architectural times of the late 1800’s following self guided trails that told the stories of the wool industry, life as a shearer and the development of pastoralism on the Darling Downs. It was early history at its best and we found ourselves steeped in the sights, sounds and smells, feeling mighty grateful that only a few sheep baa-ed in the woolshed opposed to the thousands in their day when 52 blade shearers were at work! It was a sweltering experience under all that corrugated iron.

Jolly Swagman Caravan Park in the centre of Toowoomba proved a good choice for its close proximity to the homes of family and friend. Over that weekend we caught up with Lea’s cousin Tim and wife Les, where we thoroughly enjoyed meeting their sons Heath & Traill, last seen as wee boys back in Zimbabwe. The occasion made all the more special on hearing that Heath’s wife is bearing the first of a new generation of Howman’s for us! Over sudza and wors we caught up on Junor news with Jane and Jonathan Palmer, who took us on a good orientation drive of Toowoomba.

Mid week Jane and daughter Rachel took us walking in Crow’s Nest National Park

We spent a day in the city trying to sort out safe storage and insurance possibilities for our rig while we are away on a year’s grand-children round! Time consuming, that we soon found it easier to slip into the cinema and watch the much hyped film Australia which had just opened on circuit. We were keen to see it before it was spoilt by chatter – as with all films that have lots to measure up to and many expectations we sat back and immersed ourselves in the story and spaces that were familiar to us…
As Leecy kindly reminded us- this was a Director’s version and we took an afternoon’s entertainment out of that vision.

Ask George suddenly came back into operation! We had both Liz and Leta keen to have odd jobs around their homes sorted out and thus we headed down to Brisbane and settled into the closest caravan park to the city for just over a week. This enabled George to travel back and forth between Liz’s home, north of Brisbane and Leta’s apartment in the city to sort out their list of chores spoilt only by a flu lurgy that knocked him out for a couple of days. For Lea the pleasure of socialising with her old pals, talking of this and that while she helped them get their homes in order after hard school terms and in readiness for the festive season made time slip by.


A Sunday lunch of fish & chips at Redcliff Beach with Liz

In next to no time we were out at the airport to meet Leecy, flying in from Newcastle to spend a month on the road with us.


Leta showed us around Brisbane River’s South Bank and we gained a better perspective of the city as a result!

Liz and Leta had the three of us round to their homes for fine dinners before we pulled out northwards to find a suitable caravan park in readiness for Christmas. A place in Glasshouse Mountain proved suitable with a railway station close by as Leecy’s son - our nephew, Sheldon flew up to Brisbane on Christmas Eve and caught the train to join us over the next five days making a perfect little gathering of family. No small children allowed for a late rising and large brunch before driving up to a lookout over the area. Too hot to think of walking but as shadows fell in the late afternoon we thoroughly enjoyed the challenging constraints of a mini tennis court in three sets of competitive tennis. During our formal dinner of smoked salmon and prawns with a mango and avocado salad we were first besieged by mozzies and then the rain came down… We ended up playing chocolate scrabble – YES, each letter was a chocolate piece and proved to be an excellent Christmas present from our Gee family.

CRIKEY! Once, we might have said we want to visit Steve Irwin’s Zoo but of late, we find ourselves saying Bindi’s Zoo!

Australia Zoo was 8 clicks (as Ozzies have it) up the road! We may well hear groans of disbelief and yet it was money well spent and well worth the visit. To see Bengal and Sumatran tigers rollicking around with their handlers displaying a relationship not seen in normal circumstances with caged animals was the BEST! It was the hands on contact between man and beast without the boredom and displacement one usually encounters in a zoo. Every where we went we found a wildlife team bringing animals into our midst for a natural and educational close encounter that we grew more impressed as the day progressed. At the start of the big show in The Crocoseum we were stunned to hear a personal welcome to Sheldon, Alice, Lea and George - Happened so quickly, it almost seemed a trick of the ears. Earlier, we’d chanced to bump into Michael, a friend of Leta’s who worked there and he had advised us on the coolest seating. Obviously he’d arranged this unexpected touch! For Leecy and Lea, the gloss to the day came when we found ourselves sitting a few seats away from Bindi and Robert Irwin. They found it hard to keep their eyes off the little folk who’d lost their larger than life Dad, so tragically. Another bonus, their mum Terri, was working with the big croc that day. Crocs may be the big draw card but we found the swirl of colourful macaws, lorikeets, cockatoos, Major Mitchell’s along with a Jabiru stork flying around the stadium a sight and sound show, second to none.


We stopped for Sheldon to enjoy a beer in the famous Ettamogah Pub…
As we passed a shop, infectious cackling stopped us in our tracks - the most delightful little witches were kicking up their heels. One reminded Lea of her youngest sister, which further added to our giggles!

The Rhodesian Howman Patriach turned 60 on Christmas Day. Hardly his special day all caught up in Christmas – we made do with a phone call. A couple of days later after setting up camp in Woombye we were close enough to drive up the coast to find Les and Tim’s holiday apartment in Coolum Beach and personally salute his new status as a senior!


Tim, Les, George, Lea, Leecy, Sheldon and Traill

We were delighted with the spaciousness and quietness of Woombye Caravan Park although that night we were relieved we hadn’t slipped into a site beside the creek maintaining a good distance from this popular spot, as all hell broke out during the night! A group of youngsters came to our notice with their thudding music, fire and loud whistling and we were glad to see them drive off to find new entertainment. Our air-con drowned out most of the noise when they returned in the early hours. Leecy and Sheldon woke to witness antics that turned into a drunken fight and a tent catching alight… Fortunately the Police were called and the “hoons” evicted. Thereon, peace and calm reigned in this perfect place allowing us to do day tours in different directions. Sheldon’s few days with us went like grease lightening.

Doing the Park & Ride into very popular Noosa proved to be the most painless method of exploring this particularly attractive coastal resort and when the heat finally go to us we darted into the cool of a cinema and saw a French drama – I’ve loved you so long. Montville, picturesquely perched of top of the Blackall Range, brought us another day of wandering amid art galleries and surprising scenic vistas to be found from shops.

We decide to stay put and see the New Year in at Woombye before moving back to Toowoomba. Up early on the last day of the year to visit the much talked of market in Eumundi, we were shattered to find huge crowds at that early hour along with the sheer extent of organised parking within this massive market. It was almost to much for us and each went their own way with an agreement to meet up an hour later- That was enough!

SWELTERING under a blue dome we quietly see out 2008 – a year highlighting the greed of our world and global recessions to be faced- all very scary. We can but square up and ride it out, enjoying the moments that come our way with gratitude and appreciation.

May 2009 be better than expected for us all.

“It is only when we silence the blaring sounds of our daily existence that we can finally hear the whispers of truth that life reveals to us, as it stands knocking on the doorsteps of our hearts” K.T. Jong

Sunday, November 30, 2008

Tramping tales for November 2008

Such a full October we had to put an immediate stop to our writing by sending the blog off 3 days early, from the Town of 1770. We retired inland to Calliope River Rest Area, a lovely spot frequented by the fishing fraternity, grey nomads and backpackers. Like the tide they swirled in as evening fell and were gone by breakfast.
From George’s visual diary … Heaven help those who came over the low level bridge when fisher-folk lined it to catch the rising tide. The reverse flow creates ideal fishing conditions.

What with general comings and goings, territorial conflict between Brahminy Kites and Black Kites, a local arriving each evening to cool off by floating on the river with his parakeet resting on his chest, we were kept well entertained. On our last evening of October, we were alerted by raucous noise to a couple of Channel-billed cuckoos, summer migrants from Indonesia.

To start November proper we pulled into Gracemere on the edge of Rockhampton ready to catch up with Ross, a 1968 Kariba pupil of Lea’s. Only to discover our advisory e-mails and sms had never reached them (we seem jinxed, when it comes to the Lebish family!). Ross and his family were heavily committed all weekend. A night in Gracemere wasn’t a problem as it was a veritable oasis alive with rainbow lorikeets and one of our favourites, not seen in a long while, the Apostlebirds. We moved on north of Rockhampton to Mt Etna Caves National Park which would enable Ross to pop in and make future plans with us, after their weekend away. The Caves turned out to be a pricey option and our mobile signal wasn’t strong. Late afternoon we took a walk hoping to find a stronger signal in case Ross had called. Feeling like a teenager anxiously searching for signal in the turning circle, Lea embarrassedly tucked the mobile in her pocket as a white pick-up approached. Neither of us looked in the car as it slowly drove through the virtually empty camp ground, we only noticed the dog on the back! Ten minutes later while observing a frog, our mobile rang! Turned out Ross hadn’t recognised us from inside the white pickup… Despite a weekend of wedding and their daughter’s 12th birthday, they turned back to see us and we made arrangements for the following weekend.

We took the road coast-wards to Byfield State Forest and ended up in Red Rock Campground as it was the only one with self registration – the other two camping grounds have to be pre-booked in advance - that’s a pain when you don’t know if a place will suit you. Red Rock was neatly set within a grove of pine tree with little else on offer. We were the only occupants- even bird life was depauperate. In these lonely spots Lea is inclined to accuse George of turning her into a hermit. Given the soaring temperatures (mid 30’s C) the shade proved beneficial and sufficient solar power kept the computer running beautifully to pick up on our work with family history’s and memoirs.

A where were YOU when …moment came on the 5th of November – Lea insisted the generator run all day to allow for the television to be kept on… She was determined not to miss the moment of history unfold in the American Presidential Elections. And unfold it did… with such high emotion for the required shift in Anglo American politics and the incredible Obama on whom, most unfairly, hangs so much hope for change in a world of conflict AND a global meltdown. The next day we pulled out of the forest along to Yappoon where we found a caravan site (Yes! A Shire Council park) on the edge of Farnborough Beach, beautifully flat and stretching away in each direction and looking out across the Great Keppel Islands. Cold showers were our first priority given the high humidity even then George constantly mopped his brow wondering if he’d lost the ability to cope in these temperatures. Late afternoon we took advantage of the sea breeze and could happily have walked forever along the beach ….found a dead sea-snake on the stretch towards Yappoon.
A lovely bit of rolling bush land adjoins the coastline and we explored the coastal route back to Rockhampton only to end up staying a night in Keppel Sands as that too, was a most attractive area. Generally, water restrictions are evident everywhere thus to have the manager issue the invitation to wash down our caravan should we desire to do so, took time to truly sink in, such was our surprise! By afternoon washing down Getaway and Skiv seemed an ideal way to try and feel cool. Our little step ladder and rope were brought into action as George worked away on the roof and Lea cleaned out red dust from nooks and crannies below. As George came down, the sun wearied rope gave way - giving us both palpitations, as George clutched on to the roof by fingernails. Whew, that was a close shave! Lea was still nervously giggling when Peter appeared offering good sized ladders and brushes from the storeroom but we were done.

We passed an amazing meat works perched on a hill (looked more like a hotel) as we returned to beef capital Rockhampton for our date with Ross, Jackie and their two daughters. We decided to stay central rather than return to Gracemere, booking into Riverside Caravan Park on the banks of the biggest river in Queensland, The Fitzroy, which winds is way through the city. Arriving at the Lebish home mid afternoon we were regaled by riveting stories from floods sweeping through their home thanks to the Fitzroy some kilometres away to pictorial evidence of the sweet, gentle 5 year old Ross, Lea had known, as a new immigrant, working as a stockman mustering feral cattle in the mighty hard yards of outback Queensland, at 17. That must have been culture shock. Later in time he was to dice with bulls, as a Rodeo clown… we could only admire his pluck. Around the house and tattooed on his arm, were poignant reminders of his son Kyle, who died in a car accident, oh so recently in June.


Ross, Jackie, Cheyenne and Imogen Lebish with their dogs

After dinner with stories still in steady flow, we were disrupted by an odd noise drawing ever closer until it began whipping the trees around us into a frenzy of movement and sound. As the wind swept through, followed by the smell of moisture laden air preceding a storm we all took to our heels and packed up for the night. The first big drops of rain began to fall as we pulled out the gate and we were very relieved we didn’t have far to travel as the storm broke. Safely back at “Getaway” we took a long look at the Fitzroy levels before Lea made a dash for the ablution block. Forced to leap left, right and centre along the path as a little plague of cane toads unexpectedly erupted out the shrubbery. Other than the odd dried out corpse, we had seen no sign of cane toads until this moment. George was dispatched to see them and returned without sighting one! Call her a liar?
Rain hammered down most of the night bringing welcome relief from the weeks of build up. Pre departure check found Getaway’s brake lights not working and we pulled out of the ‘Van Park to remedy them on the quiet street outside. An hour later all fuses, bulbs and connections had been double checked, changed or replaced to no avail. No auto electrician available until the morrow and with the safety issue debated we returned inside for another night. As George reversed back into our place by the river- the red lights LIT UP! Ever patiently, with a set grimace, George walked back to the office to see if they would refund him. They did, we were finally off – Destination: Carnarvon Gorge, taking the Capricorn Highway, which dauntingly posted a few warning signs along the route- # 1 Highway Killer.
Probably due to it near straight alignment as it virtually follows the Tropic of Capricorn westwards into the Central Highlands. Another telling sign - All those in favour of making it home- raise your right foot.

“Stops” provided for the travelling public by Local Councils are under threat, predominantly from Caravan Park owners who have to comply with so many health regulations objecting to the rudimentary facilities provided by some councils. Although the underlying reason is financial, competition also plays a role. Free Camping has been a way of life in Australia from way back when… and for those of us who relish the informality of bush camps and council travel stops they are a boon. The downside is when they are despoiled, the Code of Conduct ignored by some. We have often come across mess but we have yet to ever see anyone leave that mess!
We experienced two fine 24 hour road stops along the Capricorn Highway where the council has not only provided toilets but hot showers. Both Duaringa and Blackwater councils cared about encouraging travellers to stop and enjoy their towns providing clean ablution blocks amidst green and shady places. We were sorry when our time was up we would happily have stayed far longer!

In Emerald the “Traveller’s Stop” was squeezed in alongside the Botanic Gardens entrance close to the Nogoa River. Most off putting was the fact that both the road and railway bridges passed either side of the small area. We decided to assess the noise levels over the next few hours and parked in the only level grassed section directly under the railway line. Off we went to explore the Botanical Gardens discovering it was more extensive than first met the eye. We wandered the Western section of 6.5 hectares enjoying the gardens of roses, herbs and palm groves within natural bush. Once we realised the Gardens straddled the Nogoa River, lifeblood of the Emerald Irrigation area we knew we had to stay and explore the Eastern side in the late afternoon when it was cooler. We found we could put up with road trains and general traffic moving across the road bridge and waited with bated breath for the two kilometre long coal trains that ply the tracks, to pass over our heads. No trains put in an appearance – Well! Not until a lone engine clattered overhead as we departed next morning. As for the eastern side of the Botanic Gardens – what a backdoor asset for the town and it was good to see locals and dogs putting in their day’s exercise in wonderful surrounds. We were still walking as evening fell, bewitched by the screeching of cockatoos overhead, the differing bush scents that assailed our nostrils as we passed through different plant communities and in celebration of Australia’s centenary of Federation we gleaned much of Emerald’s history and its place within the Nation from The Federation Pillars and the Yarn Pit – each pillar representing a decade of history painted upon it.

The Yarn Pit - a meeting place to talk or reflect was equally symbolic – in turn, Lea recalled the Centenary medals that arrived for each child in her Darwin class in 2001.

A hundred trees for a 100 years planted to re-establish pre European plant communities had us come across a stand of Acacia erythroloba – We had been most taken by beautifully sculptured trunks of wood Ross used in his woodwork around their home and he could only tell us it was rosewood, an indigenous tree used for making fence posts. The light of an almost full moon led us home, feeling elated by the richness of nature only to have it crash seeing a slider-slammer camper had quite unnecessarily squeezed in between the rail line bridge pillars, next to us. Getaway’s door and their dreaded door a mere metre apart! Personal space means nothing to some folk and campervans are the worst to have alongside you, with the continual sliding and slamming of their doors. George huffed, puffed and glared for a good while after until Lea suggested they may be nervous girls wanting the safety of close proximity. They weren’t, but…

The unexpected delights of trundling along the Capricorn Highway dates back to pioneering times and Ludwig Leichhardt’s exploration of the Central Highlands in 1844 giving rise to many a settlement’s name.

A life sized bronze statue of a dingo commemorates the town’s name supposedly given when howling dingoes disturbed a pioneer’s sleep camping here.

Spotting a comet not only gave rise to a creek’s name but a town too, within which we found the very pretty Whistle Stop Park containing the remnants of a tree trunk marked with ‘DIG’. Leichhardt’s habit was to bury food and journals for those that followed, along his route. As for Blackwater, it was once just a whistle stop on the railway line until it earned itself the title of Coal Mining Capital of Queensland! It proudly flies the largest display of flags after the United Nations Building of course. And it boasted a Japanese Garden – reputed to be the best of its kind. When we arrived there ready to spend a good few hours we almost got hot under the collar until we reread “in Queensland” It was barely the size of two tennis courts and now comprised part of a new tourist landmark that appeared to be a work in progress from what we could see around the main complex - International Coal Centre requiring a ticket of $19 for admittance. Our senior concession would put us both in for $32 – far too much for our budget so we made do with a sighting over the fence and a disparaging comment of having seen far better in Durban! Bedford Weir with its facilities for road folk saved the day even if it was 26 kms off the road and away from Blackwater itself. Apart from the Botanic Gardens on the outskirt of Emerald, we found The Big Easel holding up a copy of Van Gogh’s sunflowers, which he saw as a symbol of life and hope. This huge structure in the town’s parkland celebrates the region’s reputation as a major sunflower producer – not that we saw one!

The Big Easel is 25m high and the painting 7x10m

Emerald’s Strawbale Visitor Information Centre also piqued our interest. Straw had been used in its construction because it was an inexpensive, renewable and aesthetically pleasing building material. The walls were raised over Easter 2005 by interested participants with little or no building skills under direct supervision of a registered builder and we were most impressed – we’d like a straw bale house IF we ever give up our wandering ways.

Turning south at Emerald and following the irrigation canal to its source Lake Maraboon, also known as Fairbairn Dam, we found a large and very turbid body of water, with a Resort that put us off, price wise. First time we have come to a place that charges the same for power or un-powered sites. We chose to move on to Springsure as a result and found it far more appealing with its Virgin Rock – a naturally formed likeness to the Virgin Mary and child – eroded beyond recognition to our minds, jutting out from Mt Zamia as you approach this country town situated in the valley. The town’s tiny caravan park gave us a chance to fill up with water, top up batteries and do our washing before going “bush”- or so we thought…

En Route to Carnarvon we happened on this memorial - A 1943 Dakota crash site, with no survivors amongst the 18 Air Force/Army personnel on board. (Note the new image – sleeveless shirts!)

Takarakka turned out to be the only place for campers and caravans and it was situated 4 kms outside Carnarvon Park. We’d been advised to take an un-powered site as prices were high in this captive market, but we found the difference barely merited going without power particularly in temperatures of 36’C the day we arrived.
Keen to sniff around and get a feel for this section of Carnarvon National Park we set off mid afternoon to do the short walks found along the road to the National Park Centre. While on the Baloon Cave Aboriginal cultural trail with its self-guided information on aspects of traditional use of the area’s resources we came across a tree with its last few blossoms. Earlier that day, Lea had noticed the odd two or three colourfully orange flowered trees. Not wanting to state the obvious, she had simply admired them in passing. Recognising the colour again she stopped to read the plaque beneath the tree – Erythrina vespertilio or Bat’s wing coral tree. As we gazed up, the leaves were remarkably like little bats against the cerulean sky and the artist inside of George became very excited. All the branches were well out of reach much to his frustration and he ended up scratching around in the leaf litter to finally find a withered specimen of these tiny fragile leaves with a fragment of blossom to assist colour matching. He hadn’t seen the tree before this and thereafter, kept his eye peeled throughout our Carnarvon days to no avail, that Lea promised to show him the fine examples she had seen well outside the Park. It didn’t happen- perhaps they were closer to Rolleston. Our next short walk took us to Mickey Creek Gorge – oh so pretty with its contrasting forms of giant fan palms and squat Macrazamias- a type of cycad so slow growing that some were possibly over a thousand years old with a lovely light being cast upon the towering sandstone cliffs that looked as if they had been roughly chiselled. Ending up at the Park Centre, we learnt much from all their resources, maps and models as to what lay in store for us. Everyone speaks highly of Carnarvon, considered one of Queensland’s top attractions. One afternoon and we were already inclined to agree.

After a game of scrabble – a good year since our last we took to our bed grateful for air conditioning as we needed an early start for our hike up Carnarvon Gorge as high temperatures were forecast. On rising, we were amazed to find conditions so overcast that George was concerned about photographs and Lea wanted a jacket! We were faced with a 10km hike up to Big Bend and we’d been advised to walk directly to this furthest point and then take the side tracks to other sites as we returned. Excitedly we set off in perfect walking conditions due to cloud coated cliff tops.

One, of 22 creek crossings on the main Gorge walk.
Spot Lea’s new walking stick? George made it to aid her wonky leg in the descent of stairs
and over uneven ground. NO! This one wasn’t carved “Lea’s I hate husband stick”!

Unthinkingly, Lea stayed on a right turn that took her up many steep steps to Ward’s Canyon. Fortunately, George spotted her disappearing and followed in her footsteps, winding round a small waterfall before rising further up, into a gorgeous narrow chasm with perennial water trickling through a well-worn stream bed.

Ward Canyon: This special place was used by the four Ward sons as a seasonal home, during possum hunting! Their father had discovered the canyon way back when and it was named for him.

A tiny pocket of remnant rain forest added an expensive boutique like touch that only nature really manages, tall tree ferns and rare king ferns predominating. Having no internal structure, King ferns depend on water pressure to remain turgid, “rather like a fireman’s hose” aptly describes it. Lovely, lovely little canyon!

The sun was fast burning up the cloud cover as we returned to the main track and we soon felt the strength of it making us glad to have intermittent shade cast by cliff sides or tree cover. We passed through a thick cover of blady grass, above which hovered and danced the prettiest black and white butterflies with transparent forewings and red dots on the hind wings – swallowtail like. Camera poised, waiting for one to settle proved impossibly frustrating and George was distinctly heard to say, in his inimitable way, “If I had a net I’d swoop it up and kill it” He immediately pointed out an ancient specimen, “as having lost all its wing scales and would die now” Fortunately a little chortle followed… Was all this activity, courting behaviour, stimulated by rains the previous week? On the Baloon Cultural trail, the previous day, we’d read that blady grass is used by Aboriginals for blood letting. Apparently pushing a blade of this grass up a nostril to induce bleeding relieves headaches. Lea quipped that perhaps the lady butterflies were here for that reason too… We’d liked to have picked a bundle for Haigho, our headache prone brother-in-law!
For anyone interested in entomology it was a paradise – with iridescent blue and red dragonflies, damselfly and hoverflies proving most distracting with their darting and dicing between our feet on the numerous stepping stones across the creek.



We side tracked to Cathedral Cave not wanting to sit on the heels of a couple, we’d caught up with.
The massive overhang brought cool respite along with Aboriginal stencilling, engravings and hand paintings.

On reaching Big Bend, marked by a massive sandstone elbow with a pool below surrounded with sand, we had come to the end of the 9.7km main walking track. We took a pit stop before turning round to formally begin exploring the many off-shoots to the Gorge. First to come up was Boowinda Gorge which didn’t look much from the pathway as we stared up a rock strewn entrance. Rock hopping our way along, Lea’s stick worked two ways either keeping her balanced or tiring her as it jammed up in rocks. However, the balancing act was well worth the effort to be confronted by a cavernous passage with stupendous sculpted sides that almost touched overhead. We could well imagine the spectacle of a flash flood with the thunderous rattling of boulders as the waters loomed bore down upon you, RUN Forrest, RUN! Later we learned that boowinda in Aboriginal language, is thunder.

By the time we arrived back at the Ward’s Canyon turn off, the heat was taking its toll and we both felt immense relief that we had inadvertently explored it earlier. Along with Boowinda Gorge, Ward’s Canyon had certainly been the highlights of our day. Thereafter, Lea began to struggle and didn’t want to do any more side explorations, just getting back to Skiv was daunting enough. We agreed to return for the remaining attractions next day. Those last 6kms had hot spots forming on the soles of her feet and her legs were burning from exertion – crossings became unbearable due to the full intensity of the sun and by that time there were still eight remaining. She begged George to whistle Bridge over the River Kwai, as a most uplifting marching tune and a reminder of men suffering far worse ordeals! George’s pitiful renderings due to dry lips would end in choked bouts of giggles. We were stunned, as we began to meet people for the first time, some very overweight, and all looked hot and bothered at the relative start of their walk! Mad dogs and … odd folk, go out in the midday sun???

Mind over matter; determinedly placing one foot in front of the other; Lea followed George’s easy gait back to the lush green shady picnic grounds of the Visitors Centre with a tremendous measure of relief to have completed the 25kms. There, surrounded by curious pretty face wallabies, George unpacked our lunch carted all the way up the Gorge and back so unnecessarily. Plus it must be told… he had picked up a discarded heavy-duty bulk bag that he could see a million uses for! Lea had to wedge this bulky thing between his back and rucksack a good few times.


Collapse - burnt out! Three blisters on the sole of a foot had her refusing to walk for the rest of the day.

Nothing, a good night’s sleep can’t sort out plus CURIOSITY had us both back on the track, under a hot blue sky just before 7am next day. We soon realized how lucky we’d been to have the cloud cover the day before as we made our way to the Amphitheatre, 5kms away where our preconceived expectations were blown away…
A steady climb upwards brought us to a halt at a rock face.

Thereon, metal ladders took us into a cleft in the rock face with a concealed passage of sacrificial metal platforms and ladders leading us into a vast chamber. Our camera could do it no justice!

For the erosive power of water to create a cavern of this size is truly phenomenal. Floods regularly scour it out forcing man’s structures to kingdom come.
Rangers must dread the constant repairing and maintenance required to meet the needs of 70,000 annual visitors. We hurried back down the main track to Moss Garden involving another steep climb before it opened up to enticing rock pools with tumbling water that beckoned sweaty bodies to stop and enjoy. We stayed focus and took steps up the boardwalk to be enveloped in a chilly, moist green paradise of ferns and liverworts. The sandstone walls thickly clad with moss dripping diamonds of water. The forces of erosion have certainly provided Carnarvon National Park with more than its fair share of nature’s sanctums.

We were back in Getaway well before mid-day. That evening we strolled down to the river bordering Takarakka campground to find platypus. Notices tell you No swimming, no fishing and no netting what so ever because of platypus thus we were most taken aback to be confronted by ropes straddling the first likely pool! On close inspection we could see a mesh dangling below. Continuing down stream we found more and obviously something was caught as the rope was bobbing! Fortunately as we stared in consternation, men broke out of bush and made for the rope, saying it was just a catfish! With platypus being at their most westerly limit of distribution, a group of researchers were establishing their home range and obtaining DNA samples. We got chatting to a Carnarvon Ranger who’d come to watch the activity and from him we found answers to our questions about the Park along with fascinating insights into the flood history of the river and staff nightmarish task of replacing stepping stones! He recommended we do the Boolimba Bluff walk as it towers 200m above the river giving a different perspective of the gorge, a wonderful bird’s eye view of distant ranges in the Park and enables one to see what lies above the cliff line.
We decided we would to do it! Next morning we caught the sunrise as we ascended the foot slopes of Boolimba- a beautiful soft light falling upon the varied vegetation types.

At the base we reached some seating and a serious notice …

This final assault brought home the realisation that the unsung heroes of this Park are the rangers who construct and maintain the steps and ladders required to get us to these wonderful high places. A job, Lea’s Dad may have relished!

It was a superb look out, particularly at that time of the morning.
We certainly completed our Carnarvon experience on a high note.

Dashing back to Takarakka, we hitched up and pulled out, back to the Great Inland Way south to Injune. Up on these highlands of Queensland, we found ourselves admiring undulating grassy downs, Bottle trees silhouetted above ridge lines and clumps of brigalow and shrubs giving long views in all directions throughout the two weeks we moved around in this region. Well conserved range lands – this was cattle and grain country and it was beautiful. Roads, relatively quiet other than the inevitable cattle transporters. We made use of a developmental road short cut keeping a wary eye on daily cloud build ups. Brisbane area having been struck with the heaviest storms in 25years gave us good reason to be watchful as severe weather warnings were issued in the south. Our first good rain fell while camping over east, along side the Dawson River in Taroom. George found tree frogs in the shower and toilet there! Heading north again, the road into Lake Murphy was a mud risk and we spent four nights instead, at Glebe Weir in cool unsettled weather, which suited us as Taroom Shire provided campers with power points at $5 a night - honesty box.


Wild winds swirled up a storm of tumble weed like dried plants that tore across a fallow field we overlooked, like mad rabbits. Eventually banking up against the fence alongside us!

Our last afternoon there, as George prepared to step out of Getaway, the sight of a snake’s tail next to his sandals stopped him in his tracks! Called Lea to look down and see it … Too late, it had moved under the caravan. Shortly after, the lazily moving reptile, well over a metre in length and a golden brown in the sunlight, slithered out towards the weir behind us. Naturally Lea was glad to move on next day and banned George walking around barefoot without a torch that night.
Theodore provided us with a perfect bush camp site tucked into a river junction and it provided hot showers. We had planned on spending the weekend there before shortcutting across to Burnett Highway in time to meet up in Cania Gorge with Jim & Jill, the new friends we’d met at Woodgate Beach. A change in their plans had us review the map and we decided to continue north on the last bit of Leichhardt Highway as it had proved such a picturesque route reminding us of Rhodesia in some way and we needed fuel. Banana was close by - other travellers had made particular effort to tell us of the cheap fuel there. No bananas grow there - the name is derived from a remarkable yellow bull helping stockmen in the 1880’s round up wild and difficult feral cattle. It turned out to be a blink and you miss it town but the fuel was the best diesel price we have seen all year. $1.35/L

Turning south down the Burnett Highway on eastern side of the highlands as we made for Cania Gorge we were amazed by the sudden desiccated state of the countryside – all rivers and creek bone dry and the vegetation scrubby. Cania Gorge too, was very hot and dry that we didn’t feel as if we were seeing it at its best. Pretty, without the grandeur of Carnarvon Gorge. The caravan park was in close proximity to all the National Park walks and we were able to do the west side walk on arrival early that morning and the eastern side late afternoon and be gone the next day.

A Cania Gorge outlook, from Dripping Rock

Even the dam we planned to spend a few days at was empty and grassed over from a long drought. As we ate lunch, an assortment of birds took refuge in Getaway’s shade- even in the doorway. Beaks gaping with the heat! Taking pity we put out water in a shallow plastic lid and were thereon entertained by their antics- drinking, bathing and grooming. We couldn’t face staying there and pushed on, only to find all the recommended sites in our Camps 3 bible fail to come up to expectations as we clicked up kilometres. Eventually, on the top of the Binjour Range, a roadside rest area proved our saviour. Cool breezes with long views over the plains below enabled us to put our heels up for a couple of nights and watch rainstorms sweeping around us. Thereafter, the terrain assumed a green hue thanks to recent rains - still not enough to generate a run off in creeks though. As we slowly made towards Dalby, we discovered lovely bush camps - one spoiled by its neglected condition yet we stayed a night regardless. Passing through the South Burnett region we were able to see out the last days of November enjoying heritage settlements and their museums. Kumbia, a stone fruit town goes out of its way to welcome caravans providing a small site, hot showers and power over 48 hours, for a donation.

We are lucky to have missed devastating storms during our explorations, zig-zagging across Queensland’s Central Highlands and sincerely hope the worst is over as we ready ourselves for the start of summer in the Toowoomba and Brisbane surrounds.

Friday, October 31, 2008

Tramping tales for October 2008

Moenie worry nie! We were fortunate to find a Library in the very next town of Kilcoy, allowing us to connect up our laptop and send off our September blog with no problems. We saw out the last two days of that month in carefree manner enjoying blue domed skies, back wearing our familiar easy wear summer gear and finding many perfect camps that so suit the Begg lifestyle! A delightful spot on a lonely showground in Blackbutt, a well run Bushcamping Park in Kilkivan (despite an incident that tickled George’s creative juices to follow!) to a perfect position beside the Mary River at Petrie Park just outside Tiaro.


We were ready to roll. Our 20 point pre-departure “flight check” had been completed (gas off; TV aerial down; brake system connection; ….) Lea was patiently awaiting the driver in Skiv. As I started the engine, my door not yet closed, a large huntsman spider disturbed by all this unexpected activity suddenly appeared, crawling as fast as its long legs could carry it down the inside of the driver’s door.

Lea can move with extreme rapidity when she has to, the problem on this occasion was that she was held fast by her safety belt! With her feet already running on the floorboard and her fingers scrabbling desperately for the release button all I could hear was a number of guttural sounds before her door opened and she last seen was running into the blue yonder.

I consider it fortunate that I had my hat on at the time because one quick slap enabled me to dislodge the arthropod before it took refuge inside Skiv.
Had this not been the case I have little doubt that we would have to had unpack the vehicle and delay our departure by a few hours.

These things happen now and again and serve to sharpen our senses.

How we bless these little towns that encourage brief “stopovers” in picturesque surrounds with basic facilities in an effort to boost passing trade. Petrie Park, honouring Andrew Petrie’s navigation of the Mary River 166 years ago and finishing at this point allowed a two night stay to travellers and we delighted in this camp even though Getaway had to park on an angle to give us our best view down the hillside onto the river. Young soldiers, doing water based training and river manoeuvres over the two days we were in situ amused us as feminine shrieks and masculine bellows vent the air to create their rowing rhythms. Folk coming and going with their boats on the slipway amicably shared with army activities. A number of houses and cars around Tiaro sport banners, stickers and notices trying to safeguard “Their Mary” from the Queensland Government building a dam to augment Brisbane’s water supply. A sign warning of a $75,000 penalty (we had to read it twice such was our disbelief) for catching a Mary River Cod seemed unreal considering Courts seldom impose anything like that on drunken driving or dire physical assaults! The Mary apparently supports lung fish, a fresh water turtle and this cod as endangered species. Put together with many other concerns, public sentiment is such as to have the potential for political downfall.

A long weekend loomed to end the school holidays and we decided it was safer to find a caravan park in Maryborough to replenish water and stocks and hopefully make contact with the Australian Howman’s living in Hervey Bay. We walked into this historic town, with its colonial buildings reminding us of a Salisbury, Rhodesia from our youth. Found a statue of Mary Poppins outside the house where the author, Pamela L. Travers was born - never stop learning something new! No response to our many calls to the Howman house had us move off next day and before we knew we had reached Bundaberg well ahead of schedule. Mindful of requiring safe storage for Getaway while we spent a week with Saxon, Paul and Talia in their holiday apartment we began at Burnett Heads to ask around and as chance had it, ended up in Bargara a mere 2kms from The Point. Bargara Beach Caravan Park was a perfect setting for us with most attractive walks along the well laid out esplanade and a pretty trail to Mon Repos Beach – Queensland’s best known and most accessible turtle laying beach. We walked the trail late afternoon on our eldest grandson’s 7th Birthday and midway received a mobile call from Otto just waking up in England to power outage and rain. How we wished he was in our idyllic place.


A couple of days later, in happy anticipation, we awaited the arrival of our Perth family driving up from the Gold Coast on the hottest day to date. We were looking forward to relaxing on the beach together only windy, grey skies prevailed thereafter… We were grateful to have a well appointed and spacious apartment with a view of the ocean (it’s not called Wide Bay for nothing as surf pounds volcanic rocks covering the shore below us) rather than being squeezed up in Getaway. When we did set off on touristy ventures, the rain would come down. We managed to visit Australia’s most baffling phenomenon, The Mystery Craters and just see them before a deluge! These 35 craters formed in a large slab of sandstone, siltstone and red ochre were discovered by a local farmer in 1971 beneath a layer of silt and sand. Teams of international geologists have yet to agree on their origins putting offering many theories. We fancied sink holes from volcanic action!




Mystery craters

We tossed up between visits to Bundy Rum Distillery or Bundaberg Ginger beer - The Barrel won out and we enjoyed sniffing and tasting the ginger beer products.
Disappointing weather could not dampen family time. Putt-putt and table tennis matches, walks along the beaches, esplanade and Mon Repos kept us all happy.
Talia entranced us with her rendition of Twinkle Star and particularly Row, row, row your boat which received constant encores from her doting grandparents.

We backtracked south to Woodgate Beach for the last three days and two nights…


Talia had her first experience sleeping in a tent.

At the start of her afternoon nap we could hear Talia mimicking bird calls from the surrounding trees, followed by peals of giggles that could hardly be suppressed despite her mother’s reprimands. Most infectious for us bystanders! This little sponge learner copied everything we said or did. George became Dandan toot-toot due to his trumpeting nose blows. The downside was the cacophony of birds at first light waking Talia at an hour the rest of us did not appreciate.

Paul discovered ant lions during an early morning walk in Burrum Coast National Park. Father-in-law explained their biology and showed him how to test for the presence of a larva by dropping in ants. A fascination of ant lion pits took hold that we’d see three heads with bums in the air inspecting conical pits where ever we went, as Talia joined into the curious activity. Our neighbours recognised accents and introduced themselves. We found new friends in Malawian Jill and Rhodie Jim who’d immigrated over forty years ago.



Finally able to relax on Woodgate beach

Glorious beach weather had arrived until the last night when a downpour had Paul and Lea running around in the early hours, zipping up the tent and saving other items from the wet and wind. We thought the beach kiosk “Woodys” was washed out… On cue, OUT came the sun and we settled on the rather slippery decking for a final breakfast together. Awaiting our order, a bird with heavily painted bright blue mascara swooped down and landed on the back of Talia’s chair and animatedly began to tell her a thing or two! Quite the most fantastic photo opportunity with George perfectly positioned to capture it all. Unbelievably his camera was not attached to his wrist this day! Talia, spellbound by this blue-cheeked honeyeater with its long pointed beak chirping nineteen to the dozen within inches of her face had Saxon agitatedly looking on while threatening the bird with dire consequences should it take out her daughter’s eye.
The sadness of the family departing brought back the rain and jolted us into haring back to the laundry to drag all our wet linen off the line.

Originally, we had all planned to visit Fraser Island only to find it was illegal to fit a car seat in Skiv. Other alternatives proved too costly and the visit was abandoned. We had expected to visit the Hervey Bay Howman’s after our family had gone taking this opportunity to reappraise Fraser Island prospects. Phone-calls to the Howman’s proved fruitless and we contacted Peter to discover his parents were in Brisbane as his father had sadly suffered a stroke. A trip to Fraser Island was feasible and we continued south into the Harvey Bay region. We were fortunate to find well situated Windmill Caravan Park in Urangan, who surprised us with a welcoming a plate of chockie biscuits and teabags. They were happy to look after Getaway for a dollar a day when we went to Fraser and parked us next to a beautifully kept and equipped camp kitchen. That afternoon we made our barge booking out of River Heads and bought the required permits for our trip to World Heritage Area, K’gari, the largest sand-island in the world better known as Fraser Island. Skiv was prepared for our adventure and basic camping supplies bought for our time away.

All we really knew about Fraser’s was lots of sand and aggressive dingoes! We were assailed with a sense of adventure as we reversed onto the barge. Folk reduced tyre pressures during the 30 minute crossing to Wanggoolba Creek – we held off until we disembarked because the steepness of the ramp had caught our tow hitch and bent the bolt protruding below, coming aboard and we needed to keep as much clearance as we could. Lots of heavy cloud around and our arrival on the island didn’t look like much as we engaged in four wheel drive and locked hubs for the duration of our time here before following the sandy corrugated track leading away from the mangroves. In no time we began rising up inland from the West side towards Central Station, tucked away in the rainforest. We assumed by the name that it was the Wildlife Service Headquarters and judging from all the 4x4’s parked, required a necessary stop. Quite the contrary, this historic site had been the centre of a forest industry around the turn of the last century and remnant buildings now used for educational purposes with the surrounds to picnic in and with many walks departing from here. We took a stroll through the rainforest along the Wanggoolba Creek boardwalk amidst impressive picabeen palms, our only regret being no sun to filter down and show up the colours and clarity for photographic purposes. Back in Skiv we slowly rocked and rolled our way along the narrowest rough tracks of the 30km Southern Lakes scenic drive – finding ourselves glad to take in the breaks and steady our bodies with walks to see Lake Birrabeen, an amazingly clear perched lake within glistening white sands. It just lacked a blue sky to enhance its colour. Later, our visit to Lake Boomanjin contrasted with its waters stained brown by tannins leached from all the vegetation. Lea understood how their elevation gave rise to the classification perched lakes but couldn’t understand why the water didn’t drain away through the sand until George explained that beneath the floor of the lake lay an impervious layer of organic debris.


Lake Boomanjin, the largest perched lake in the world


It was here we were somewhat horrified by the little fenced in camp ground resembling an internment camp! Everything dingo proofed and warning notices everywhere.

Look out for dingoes;
Always stay close to your children, even small teenagers;
Walk in small groups;
Stand back to back if approached and don’t make eye contact. And More…


Mercy! Lea began to a distinct uneasiness about the dingoes of Fraser and kept her eyes peeled. We approached Dilli Village only to find it was a well protected place and not easily accessible that we continued on to the Eastern Beachfront. With no tide tables available George made a rough estimate of his own. Optimal times for driving the 75 mile long beach are two hours either side of low tide. He walked down to inspect - All was well for nipping into Govi Camping zone looking out across a vast expanse of ocean to eat our lunch. One of many informal camping areas tucked just behind the fore-dunes offering no facilities other than “a quiet wilderness experience”. QUIET? Not a bird to be seen or heard, just the steady thump and whoosh of the waves. Curiosity to see more took us northwards along the beach. Up until now we’d hardly seen a soul. While out on this beach highway, we encountered heavy traffic- all speeding along. Beach buggies, 4WDs towing boats, some even with caravans, buses of all sizes, trail bikes and to cap it all, we shared the beach with light aircraft landing and taking off. The speed limit was 80km/hr and it was quite an odd sensation to have vehicles nonchalantly passing us slow coaches, when we found ourselves cringing on occasions at the noise arising from our bed boards slamming down as we bounced through unexpectedly sharp edged creek wash-outs. We turned into Happy Valley and found a dingo fence being erected as we crossed over an electrified grid. Inside the protected area many day trippers, chiefly 4WD tour groups of international youngsters stopping at the shop for refreshments plus a holiday resort. We continued on but after a while dodging vehicles with nothing but sand and sea, stretching away became quite bland that it was pleasing to reach Poyungan Rocks and have to do a short inland detour. We were stunned by the congestion of people and vehicles around Eli Creek that we simply bypassed this Fraser landmark and Maheno Wreck was almost as bad – the traffic just moved off faster. We were lucky that a couple of buses were pulling out as we drew up. Sunlight had come out briefly and the tide had only just turned to enable us to get up close to this ex WW1 hospital ship that had seen out its working days in 1935 and sold for scrap. En route to Japan, stormy weather broke the tow rope and Maheno was washed ashore.


During WW11 the RAF used the Maheno for target practice!

Lighting was not good at The Pinnacles and we realised it was time to choose a camping zone for the night. We kept passing the odd large camp of fishermen and steered clear of them! From the barge onwards we had noticed cross generational groups of macho men with off road utes laden with beer, fishing rods and eskies. Seldom did we see one of these blokes without a stubby in hand or parking a pint beside his back wheel - to put it politely! Burad (meaning white bellied sea eagle) camp zone suited us with its grassy patch beneath a pandanus tree backed by high dunes and close proximity to the beach which was no longer characterised by frenetic traffic. Just before dusk George went on a lone walkabout as Lea was too dingo conscious, never mind we hadn’t seen hide nor hair of one all day.

Lea had a fit having to go to bed so early, let alone when shafts of sunlight awoke us at an unearthly hour next morning. George was up with alacrity, persuading his wife to rise and shine, in practice for Mozambique next year! She wasn’t impressed. He needed another tactic - low tide and an ominously large bank of cloud sitting across the horizon looking to be rolling our way, did the trick.


The Burad camp outlook!

Thus at 5a.m. we were travelling back along the beach – in a world all our own, stopping at Red Canyon and The Pinnacles to look more closely at the coloured sands that characterise these features before pulling into Eli Creek. A beautiful place with a carefully constructed boardwalk leading up stream to an ideal swimming spot clearly warranting the crowds we had noticed the previous day. As we backtracked to Skiv for breakfast we found clear dingo footprints following ours in the wet sand. We hadn’t seen them going but they were there coming back. No dingo could be seen across the wide expanse of sand. We stayed for most of the day relishing having the place to ourselves until at least mid morning.


On the beach at Eli Creek

We became people watchers as folk began to arrive. Finally when the bus loads of day trippers turned up the pressure shortly after 2pm we took off for Cornwells, a camping zone at the start of the Central Lake scenic drive, an inland road that would take us back over to the West coast next day. As dusk fell, cramped on the bed cutting up salad, Lea voiced her disappointment at not seeing a dingo in the only place with a pure strain to George, standing at the back of Skiv helping prepare our supper. This led to pondering whether the powers of media had overly influenced public considering the only documentation appears to be one serious case of a 9 year old boy being killed by dingoes in 2000 and more recently, a 3 year old girl nipped. Here on expensive signage and fencing protection was being put in place in a wilderness area simply to make people feel safe and take the onus off … Swiftly, Lea tapped George on his inwardly bent head and hoarsely whispered “dingo behind you”. George wasn’t about to fall for her tricks BUT sure enough, 12 to 15 metres away, a most handsome dingo was trotting along the camp track showing not the slightest interest in us. As he reached the beach entrance he rose onto the slight fore-dune and surveyed the empty beach. We kinda held our breath in admiration, feeling joy at seeing a proud dingo going about his own business, for an abiding image of our own.

First light had us up and away without complaint to tackle the inland road crawling up the barrier dunes being thrown back and forth that we were glad of safety belts as we made our way to Lake Wabby – this one, a barrage lake. The approach to the lookout caught us by surprise at that early hour of a morning with the glare rising off the spectacular white sand drift that slowly advances to engulf this lake. We could see a group of girls swimming in the deep lake and left them to their piece of paradise and continued on our way.


Sand blow at Lake Wabby

In time for breakfast, we arrived at Lake Boorangoora or McKenzie, as it is more commonly called and ate our cereal staring at the human cage constructed to protect tour groups, lunching there. Campers could find lockups for their property too. No food or food preparation was permitted beyond a certain point! Our meal over, we took the trail through to the Lake and discovered an enticing stretch of water in idyllic surrounds.


George makes the most of solitude despite paparazzi


Obviously an incredibly popular attraction despite limited parking and we soon realised how lucky we were to have arrived there before the tour groups poured in around 10.30. We fled!

Having an open barge ticket to return any time we saw no reason why we should continue back to Wanggoolba Creek if we could depart from Kingfisher Bay. No signal on our mobiles necessitated going there to ascertain whether this would be feasible. We could and were booked on the 2p.m. barge. This attractive resort obviously caters for day trippers coming across Hervey Bay from the mainland towns. Close to Kingfisher jetty a swimming pool is tucked into the forest with picnic facilities and a pavilion, catering for others. We’d passed the local Servo with car washing facilities and with plenty of time to kill George took this opportunity to give Skiv a thorough cleansing and re-inflate the tyres. Once done, we took the resort’s trail up to its Northern Lookout winding its way through forest, at times we came up against the sturdy anti dingo fence. What a glorious view across the vast expanse of Hervey Bay. We hoped we’d see at least one of the many whales that come in annually to calve. Later we learnt it wasn’t in Hervey Bay itself, but Platypus Bay in the NW of Fraser Island. We’d loved our Fraser experience and came to realise it wasn’t a restful place for parents with young children to explore – NOT because of dingoes! Simply because the enormously bumpy tracks make travel slow and the beach is not only unsuitable for bathing, it becomes a dangerously busy thoroughfare at peak times.

Arriving back at Getaway we found a Park Snag Sizzle in progress around the camp kitchen. We were invited to join but with unpacking and a shower our agenda we only put in a brief appearance at the tail end, when curiosity to meet the faces behind the broad Lincolnshire voices we’d overheard talking about Skeggie and Scunthorpe overcame us! Our opening introduction that we may not talk properly but we came from yellow belly country too, went down a treat. Three“blueys” and the rest were all poms. Almost all were living in “permanents” in Windmill Caravan Park. How odd was that?

We stayed another day to get Skiv’s oil changed and see to laundry. There must have been method behind the madness when MM (mere male) unthinkingly packed our fresh milk for Fraser. It was sour by the time it was found! Lea couldn’t toss it and with camp kitchen oven turned out a batch of Eileen scones and a batch of date scones camouflaged into fruit ones with a few sultanas and frozen for the road. In the afternoon we walked the Hervey Bay esplanade (a particularly pleasant feature maintaining its indigenous woodlands) to the Urangan Pier. This 1917 icon of Hervey Bay was very nearly lost to “stupidity” resulting in the loss of its “end” before folk with foresight rescued the remaining 868m span. It is a splendid pier and judging by the fishermen, pelicans and vast shoals of little fish we could see, not to mention the 8-9kg golden trevally just caught – the pier was well worth saving.

Heading north again, we passed through Childers for the third time and this time, Lea insisted on stopping, as a father’s words “If love alone could keep you safe, we’d never fear a day” had hauntingly engraved themselves in her mind in association with Childers. Fortunately George was keen to buy peanuts from The Peanut Van which made a good excuse to walk the length of this National Trust town with its colonial buildings and ornate facades reminding us of colonial towns in Africa. DECAY SLAYER across one front caught our eye bringing a smile of appreciation at the dentist’s humour. Reaching the well advertised Peanut Van we were given tastes of all flavours of home grown peanuts. While George made decisions! Lea glanced along and noticed peanut erasers. Such was George’s intense interest… it required explaining that his nutty love was whittling peanuts. The lady serving us was immediately intrigued and asked George if he had some as thinking of Christmas presents for her boss was mighty difficult. George said he’d show her as we’d be passing by shortly. Returning on the opposite side of the road we popped into an Art Gallery in The Palace Building and discovered the Palace Backpackers Memorial to the 9 International backpackers who died in a fire that swept though in June 2000. A wall with glass inserts displaying poignant images of each victim befitted their memories. Before we could be our way… George found his carved peanuts in their shells and duly stopped at the side of the road and dashed across to show the lady. She bought both without hesitation. Thus we left Childers elated!

Having stopped in a rest area outside Gin Gin for lunch, we decided to stay put for the night and as the afternoon wore on, more and more fellow travellers pulled in for the night too. Next day we moved on a short distance to Lake Mondurah campground as it boasted a free internet hotspot. Lea had many e-mail waiting to go and more required writing. Technically there is a hotspot and to our disappointment it didn’t work. Obviously the boating fraternity frequenting this campground had no reason to test it out ever. Our next stop was a quiet bush park on the outskirts of Agnes Water and the Town of 1770 that we were keen to spend a few days exploring these beautiful locations. Odd names for two seaside towns in close proximity to each other, each with a story! Lieutenant James Cook anchored in Bustard Bay in 1770. This was Cook’s third landfall in Australia and the first in Queensland thus the claim that Town of 1770 is the birthplace of Queensland. We found the Town of 1770 to have a striking similarity to Cooks Town, further north. Agnes Water owes its name to a ship that went missing (not found to this day) somewhere in these waters. On board was the mother of a future Queensland Premier. We enjoyed many picnic lunches along the foreshores as George’s eye saw much of artistic appeal to get out his watercolours.
Deepwater National Park accessed only by 4WD, gave us a wonderful afternoon admiring the willow like growth form of cabbage palms while another delight, Joseph Banks Conservation Park could easily have been missed, if we hadn’t added on more and more days.


Deepwater National Park track.

Southport Paula had often spoken about the islands off Queensland, where she goes with her walking club. Ideal places to snorkel too that she recommended we visit one. We looked at visiting Lady Elliot only to find the flights were beyond our means for merely a day. Having been on The Great Barrier Reef out of Townsville in January 1995 we felt we were content with that life time chance. However, a poster at the entrance to our Discovery Caravan Park gradually embedded thoughts in our head about cruises over to Lady Musgrave Island. Not only would we walk the Island we could go coral viewing, reef fishing, snorkelling or even scuba dive. We succumbed to advertising, looked at weather and chose our day. Climbed aboard “Spirit of 1770” and headed out of Bustard Bay into the unexpectedly rough swell of the ocean for the next 90 minutes. Contrary to forecasters there seemed far too much cloud on the horizon for our liking but we were not going to allow that to spoil the day. Our pulses quickened at the sight of a picture book calm lagoon surrounded by atoll and a low lying green coral cay fringed in white. Our boat passed through a narrow entrance and tied up to a pontoon with a welcome cuppa and biscuits to steady unsettled tums. A glass bottomed boat took us to the cay, en route giving us more than a glimpse of the treasures in store for the rest of the day - two green turtles contentedly lying in a “cleaning station” within a bommie while wrasse fed off the algae attached to their shells! Cloud kept changing the light intensity and a nippy breeze was about as we stepped on to a shore littered by chunks of broken coral that crunched under foot. Above the Pisonia forest we could see black birds circling around yet nothing prepared us as we stepped into a seemingly prehistoric micro-habitat worthy of a Hitchcock movie. The full impact of all the Black Noddies really grew as we moved deeper into the forest. With no predators these blackish brown birds with a white cap sharply cut off by their black faces and long slender bills hovered and danced around us emitting nasal, rattling ‘chrrrs’ and tern-like ‘kik-kirriks’ as the males sought yellowed leaves for their mates to fussily inspect. Leaves not meeting approval drifted down upon us while others were pasted into rough and scruffy nest shapes with their guano.



No photograph did justice to our Noddy experience.

We had to be very guarded looking upwards to avoid a splatter landing in eye or mouth! Our visit had coincided with breeding season and nest building was almost at peak hence the magic of being engulfed in all the noise and activity taking place at all levels around us. Lea‘s mind kept thinking of her friend Sally back in Cleethorpes who suffers from a severe bird phobia! As a loyal reader of our log, what will she make of this! Our trip would have been worth it if we’d seen nothing else and we could easily have spent hours there. However, the lure of the reef beckoned. Here we were on the southern end of The Great Barrier Reef delighting in an underwater observatory as reef fish of all sizes, living under the pontoon swirled about in a feeding frenzy over pellets; to expeditions out in a semi-sub a couple of times, coral viewing with a qualified marine interpreter.


Low tide in Lady Musgrave Lagoon.

Buffet lunch with more than enough to feed large appetites generated by outdoor activity included lots of prawns. Low tide made snorkelling all the more productive as the turtles and fish were concentrated in deep passages between the coral mass. Despite chilly water no longer appealing to Lea, she took the plunge with the slightly warmer protection of a flotation vest and her usual gasps to join George in another close encounter with nature.


We have certainly had wonderful moments and memories to preserve this month.

Monday, September 29, 2008

Tramping tales for September 2008

Spring sprang with the perfume of wild freesia wafting through the air promising wonderful weather but it wasn’t long before wild winds hammered the coastline over days and Leecy was laid low with a virulent virus. With two down - three if you count Sheldon, Lea could only hope her zinc and Echinacea would ward off the bugs circulating. Definitely not time to rid ourselves of the warm and layered clothing as the wind and rain shook at the house our last weekend in Killcare. We were glad to take refuge in the vintage cinema theatre of Avoca Beach and watch “Up the Yangtze” a documentary on China’s Three Gorges Dam focussing on the human effects of this massive impoundment while Leecy delivered paintings to another Art Show down Sydney way and kept painting for the next of a string that Spring brings.

The pleasures of Central Coast were fast drawing to a close and we found ourselves reluctantly bidding farewell to the many new friendships made over the winter months through Leecy. Our day of departure dawned to a perfect day and Leecy insisted on taking us out to breakfast - it proved to be an extraordinary good breakfast at the aptly named nursery “Impact” down in Empire Bay giving a luxuriant tropical backdrop to quite the most delicious brekky. How hard it was to say good bye…

We returned to Parramatta to spend our last few days with Shell and Keith in readiness for the Eye Specialist. Shock and horror! On arrival George discovered he had missed the appointment that very day. A senior moment imprinted the previous appointment across his mind… The two sisters escaped on the river cat for a day in Darling Harbour wandering in the Chinese Gardens before heading to The Rocks leaving George to sit beside the school phone over the next two days hoping he’d be squeezed into an overbooked schedule despite his faux pas. By strange quirk of fate he was fitted in on the very day and time that had caused the trouble. With his eye pressure having substantially dropped due to correct medication, we were set free to head north until next February’s check up. We are happy to return for that appointment as spring is busting out all over – yet another grandchild is on the way with Saxon and Paul adding to their family. We heed the request to remain flexible in 2009 and will return to Perth in March to help in the lead up to the new addition. Yay!


Saxon's 12 week scan

It has been wonderful to share quality time with sisters after years of living such separate and far flung lives (virtually from school days) that it was sad to pull out of Parramatta and head north along the Pacific Highway. However, a magnificent day and the pull of the road soon had our spirits soaring and within hours it was hard to believe we’d ever been static. We were fascinated to spot a good many fauna crossings. These safe overpasses were suspended high above the road to protect tree climbing creatures.

It took a long time for us to make road friends and when it happened it happened quickly! While touring Tasmania, four couples unexpectedly came together around a power pole. Six months later we were following instructions from one of the Tasmanian “Pole Gang” and easily made tracks to a caravan park in Belmont set beside Lake Macquarie. Not long after lunch we received a call from Tom and Kim to say they were on their way to show us the best of their home turf. Both born and bred with deep roots in the surrounding area we couldn’t have had better guides to show us the secret and scenic lookouts south of Belmont, hear tales of greyhounds and fishermen as well as see the long line of ships out on the ocean awaiting their cargo of coal from Newcastle. Catho, an old coal mining town that seems to deserve heritage listing and yet is a hotbed of controversy after council approved a new housing estate, caught our attention with all the huge banners slung across homes and anti development slogans daubed everywhere. As we passed Catho Pub which appeared to be an institution in its self, we asked about it and discovered that neither Tom nor Kim had ever ventured in as it had been a dominant hangout for the bikey gangs of yesteryear. On our return, it seemed an interesting enough place to quench our thirst.

High tide prevents us exploring the sea caves of Caves Beach

At nightfall Tom & Kim took us back to their home for dinner where we were intrigued by their collections of clocks, teddy bears, doorstop mice, coke bottles and Bundy bears.

King Edward Park in Newcastle was arranged as a good mid-point place for us all to meet up with pole gang’s third couple, Joy and Barry from Nelson Bay. The heat of the previous day unexpectedly changed to gusty winds, rain and drizzle that we had to quickly change into warmer clothing moments before Tom & Kim collected us. Heading north of Belmont, we sat back to enjoy a stress-less tour up to Newcastle via back roads that took us up and over Redhead bluff, where many unfortunate suicides have taken place from this commanding cliff top position. A gazebo awaited our use for the day along with Joy and Barry. During all the talking we indulged in party food of caramel pie, chelsea buns and lollies making a good walk a necessary requirement if we were to manage lunch! Newcastle could certainly provide that as it is the nation’s only city centre with a working harbour bounded by beaches- which imply flat ground but that, it was not! There were plenty of ups and downs between the beaches. We found the area surprisingly free of commercialism but “our locals” were quite disparaging about crime and safety not to mention how little was done to attract visitors to this run down area that potentially had so much to offer. Weather suited us and in turn kept away any crowding that our table was still free on our return for lunch. In next to no time the clock dictated pack up time.

Team photo of three quarters of the Tasmanian Pole Gang.

Afterward Tom and Kim took us through the city showing us landmarks before crossing to Stockton on the other side of the harbour to take the “shipwreck walk” along the breakwall out to the one visible wreck – Adolphe cast up on the edge.

Thanks to Tom and Kim providing us with such a comprehensive overview of Newcastle and its surrounds we pulled out of Belmont with ease and made our way through picturesque areas of Myall Lake National Park to Seal Rock. We’d had good reports of this area and they matched our expectations with a delightful spot in a camping reserve in contrast to the expense of National Park camping. It seems to us that NSW is doing its-self a big disfavour by charging more than surrounding commercial operators to stay in National Park campgrounds. Our carefully tended grassed clearing, fine ablution blocks and barbeque centre had thick tropical greenery rising around the outskirts with beach frontage providing beautiful vistas that as soon as we were settled we felt drawn to explore this relatively isolated and peaceful village. We made our way towards Sugarloaf Point lighthouse passing a pretty little cove where we stopped to muse over a plaque commemorating the most successful whale rescue ever carried out in July 1992 when 49 false killer whales beached themselves and were transported overland for successful release. Further on, we took a walk through an impressive tunnel-like passage of trees steadily climbing up to the lighthouse. Holiday accommodation has been made out of the old Head Keeper’s cottage (sleeping 6 @ $2,100 per week out of season) and Assistant Keeper’s cottage (has rates for 4 @ $1,750 per week out of season with an additional two guests at $30 per head per night. Prices double in the summer holidays yet, we must be very quick to say, this is quite the most superb setting to remove oneself from the madding crowd. These cottages are perched on a cliff edge overlooking the extensive Treachery Beach and sand dunes melting into Myall National Park. Up the steep incline behind them is the 1875 lighthouse guarding a coastline area that since operation has witnessed 20 reported wrecks making it ‘heaven’ for divers.

The next day we moved a further 25kms to Sandbar/Bushland camps on the recommendation of Mick and Pauline (another member of Leecy’s art class). We chose to stay in Sandbar where we were lulled to sleep by the persistent hooting of a Powerful Owl and particularly enjoyed five brush turkeys roaming the almost vacant campground. One came up and nipped George on the finger while he was photographing them.

The nipper – a male brush turkey

Some time ago we watched a TV doco on the love/hate relationship generated by brush turkeys. Lea’s Dad loved them and spent hours watching these inveterate scratchers either feeding amongst leaf litter or building up their mound nest. Understandably, Gardeners hate brush turkeys for their determined annihilation of flower beds and veggie patches and go to any length to rid their properties of this “pest” a doing what comes naturally. Australian crows (or ravens as George correctly calls them), mynahs, seagulls and cane toads all fall into this dichotomy of sentiment arising from mans quirky unpredictability. We were kept amused watching an elderly man almost have an apoplectic fit whenever a brush turkey had the audacity to venture onto his site, throwing anything and everything after it- even his wash stand!

Our steady march northwards through the Great Lakes region had us twisting and turning between inland coastal waters and large tracts of swampy paperbark and palm thickets before returning to the Pacific Highway, the condition of which generates angst the length and breadth of it with sniping by local authorities and aggrieved public. We hit a section undergoing an upgrade and suffered our first blow-out. Midst all the noise of excavators, bulldozers and the steady stream of road trains we were momentarily stunned by a loud bang that sounded as if something had hit the caravan. Skiv began to shudder and shake on the rough surface and we immediately realised we had a flat tyre. Our hearts sank as there was nowhere suitable to pull off and we could only get off the busy road between barriers into a tiny spot that was far from ideal. We leapt out to survey the damage and found the side wall of Skiv’s back tyre torn in 4 or 5 places and faced with the sloping road verge had difficulty inserting the jack under the axle. One never remembers the camera in tough times and we can only be grateful that we weren’t travelling fast. A quiet road would have been preferable to the pressure of construction and blasting time approaching though! We were pretty quick to pull into a rural caravan park to recover – pity traffic noises reverberated through the night disturbing sleep.

Back down to the coast we took up early occupation of a site in Arakoon Conservation Area just below the historic Trial Bay Gaol built in 1886 on a promontory. On approach, it is a striking granite building with expansive outlooks that probably would distract watch tower guards from their jobs, just a shame the cells are without views. From the sweeping beachside the prison profile is difficult to discern. During the First World War it was used as an enemy internment camp. What interested us was that a public works prison was specifically built to house prisoners for the express purpose of constructing a sea-wall that was never completed. Why a sea-wall was deemed necessary in the first place, beats us.
The tick of approval for Gumma Reserve just east of Macksville had us popping in there despite our Camps Australia saying it had narrow access. That it did, being a narrow dirt road up against Warrell Creek with a few twists and turns between closely set trees that we were glad not to meet any oncoming cars. It was worth the visit and we stayed on for the night in this well kept bush camp overlooking the wide expanse of water. Creek is a misnomer for the sheer width and volume of water being carried along the many waterways we have crossed in northern NSW. We would happily have spent longer here had we not arranged to be in Coffs Harbour to spend the weekend with Charles and Trish. Before arriving at their home we were keen to ascertain whether we could replace our damaged tyre in this big town. A convenient tyre outlet was spotted with easy access for Getaway. They had our size, even better than that… the supplier offered us at a substantially reduced price, a set of tyres with brand new rims that a previous owner had traded in for a pair of fat tackies.
We grabbed the offer and in a flash Skiv, sporting fine new rubbers on the front and good looking rubbers on the back was having a wheel alignment.

Arriving at the home of Charles and Trish we peered nervously up their driveway wondering what difficulties may lie concealed for the parking and turning of Getaway. Charles appeared and assured us all was well. So many years have passed since Lea last saw him as a young lad being bedevilled by the four Howman sisters, that George has never had an opportunity to meet him. His sister, Pippa, stopped overnight with us in Parramatta last month after a holiday in Coffs Harbour before returning home to England. We had barely eased Getaway into a good spot within their extensive garden when Trish had to leave for work at the Base Hospital. After settling in Charles took us on a conducted tour of Coffs Harbour, a popular whale watching, recreational boating venue. He was feeling the after effects of a tough paddle ski race that morning so left us to walk up the steep headland set aside as a mutton bird sanctuary overlooking the harbour town. Brisk afternoon winds made the ocean too choppy for any chance of spotting a whale. We collected the youngest of Charles’s three daughters (the others away at Uni.), Alex from her after school job and returned home for a night of ‘catch up’. This family are all very physical - up very early to pursue their running, swimming and paddling while the Rubber Tramps lie abed, see to (hopefully) the last of their winter laundry and enjoy the bird life that abounds in the garden. Next day, when Charles and Trish returned they hurried us into their car for brunch down on Moonee Beach as it was such a still morning after a night of passing storms. Charles had been paddling with whales and he hoped we would be able to see them from the Moonee Bluff. While he cooked on the public barbeque, we walked up the bluff with Trish and the dogs, to scan the ocean in vain.

Moonie Beach Brunch

The last time we were on this road was with Justine and Daniel and their old rented banger, “Gotushere” named from the relief of reaching each place along the way to Townsville in January 1995. Making the journey thirteen years later was startling in comparison - such is progress! A night was spent at Iluka so that we could walk the World Heritage listed littoral rainforest directly behind our caravan park through this 2.5km little treasure with its tall canopy of riberry and lilly pilly trees, intertwined with strangler figs and on, out to the Bluff and back via a long empty beach to the picturesque fishing harbour and village of Iluka beside the Clarence estuary. We planned to overnight in Byron Bay known for its laid back alternative lifestyle and where Justine and Dan had introduced us to the shenanigans of a Doors concert way back when. Horrors! Byron Bay was now so peopled that we could hardly wait to get out of its congestion! Finding our way to Mullumbimby Leagues Club we were delighted to camp on the river’s bank alongside the sports ground. A golf course had been carefully fitted in on the periphery and fortunately for us, the afternoon winds were in our favour this match day, preventing golf balls putting a dent in anywhere. Further entertainment came from a pair of plovers (masked lapwings) who, in guarding their nest, took great exception and strafed the golfers putting on the green closest to us. No eagles or birdies possible here!

People pressure, urban sprawl and traffic density began to encroach heavily from Tweed Heads that we dreaded crossing into Queensland and the famed Gold Coast for this very reason. Memories of Surfers Paradise had us set on staying slightly inland so that we could enjoy a day with Paula (remember our travel companion along the Ningaloo coastline of Western Australia in 2005 and both our daughters Maidstone teacher?) Paula recently bought flat in Southport and we were keen to see her new abode and catch up before she left for Moreton Island. We settled just inland at Narang- which had sounded rural but was quite the opposite. Worse - we learned it was Hoon Capital (Hoons are anti social youngsters with little regard for safety, tearing up turf and tar with doughnuts and street racing!) according to hot off the press statistics! Glad to say we witnessed nothing of the kind during our two night stay in the middle of town. Once settled in our caravan park we sent Paula a text and set off to find a Visitors Centre when we happened upon a familiar figure with two grandsons in tow. Little did we know how quick and easy the access was to Southport! Paula had arrived to make arrangements for the following day, we’d spend together.

We were in the best of hands when it came to exploring Paula’s neck of the woods as she is a most knowledgeable bush walker. Once again we were able to sit back and enjoy a carefree drive in the hands of our guide up the dizzy coiling road leading to Springbrook Plateau lying within a Range dominating the skyline west of the Gold Coast and part of the remaining ancient links to Gondwana World Heritage Area. The start of the day had prepared us for a hot one but the ancient Antarctic beech forest had us shivering with cold as we walked through this remnant of very cool climate growth to enjoy views from Best of All Lookout over the rugged landscapes around us and beyond to the patchwork of coastal plain land uses. Thank goodness we’d thrown a jumper into our rucksack.

The strange girth of the Antarctic beech

It was needed in this high country and throughout the Twin Falls walking circuit. Up and down the gorges, along the foot of the escarpment and though large rock clefts our track passed behind curtains of falling water belonging to Twin Falls and Blackfellow Falls. In full spate you’d never get near there and all beautiful sheer drops.

Lea and Paula behind Blackfellow Falls

Finally we stopped to look down upon Purling Brook Falls before returning to our picnic spot for lunch. A period of mutual observation ensued between our selves and a very handsome satin bower bird sitting on a branch above our table.
Another route back down to the coast took us into Surfers Paradise and totally changed our conception and understanding of this now bustling and very cosmopolitan part of Queensland’s Gold Coast which forms a long strip of amazing residential waterfront developments around wide canals formed out of swamp ground at the confluence of Narang River and along the inland Broadwaters with a multitude of high rise building and hotels in artistic shapes and colours virtually concealing them from the beach front. We felt a distinct Mediterranean flavour even a similarity to Florida Keys amidst all these buildings with thick, lush vegetation and gardens enhancing the concrete jungle. We were impressed by the radical change undergone here from the ghastly high rise ridden main street, overflowing with holiday kitsch, we had driven into all those years ago.

Paula took us past all the beaches to The Spit, where we were taken aback to find Sea World. This is where our Gee family are visiting just before they meet up with us, in quite the most opposite direction in October! During a walk into the Marina Mirage Centre to see the boats at sunset we spotted the quaintest houseboat chapel. While peering down into it wondering if a wedding was about to take place, two cheery ladies awaiting prospective clients, invited us in for a closer inspection. Small world!
The little Chapel with stained glass windows and bell on the roof was originally built by a South African. A Zimbabwean and South African had recently bought it as a business for weddings, vow renewals, naming ceremonies and receptions – any function as they cruise along. “Celebrations Afloat”- how different and special is that. To add to this story, Deborah turned out to have attended Arundel School but well after Lea.

Celebrations Afloat Gold Coast

Time running out we returned to look over Paula’s home, enjoy her dinner and rush to complete the fast and furious chatter that had taken place throughout the day before she returned us home.

Queensland school holidays and clear blue skies had us decide to avoid the coastal holiday makers and head around the back of Brisbane into Somerset Region’s Valley of the Lakes taking part of a heritage trail up the Brisbane Valley through early 1820’s pastoral sheep farming land and little towns with original streetscapes from this era to Somerset Dam. It suited us well with pensioner’s rates in a spacious, well kept camp ground with mainly boating folk out on the lakes all day. Ravens awoke us, trying to outdo each other with a mournful story. Noisy miners mobbed a goanna in the bush alongside our door. It was easy to stay for the weekend mindful that we need to find an internet to send off our blog before month end if Saxon is to paste it up before their departure to Sydney, 1st October before they join us.