Sheldon about to take two aunties for a spin along the coast in his mum’s snazzy red convertible mini!
Two wonderful weeks spent with family- girls laughing, shopping, cooking and preparing for a party. George kept busy putting in more shelving and doing repairs around Leecy’s house. It was a good time remembering the past and gathering new memories.
Four pairs of sunnies consume cappuccinos at the corner shop - Talya has joined the throng.
Shocking weather in the Blue Mountains brought power cuts for days as damaging winds and snow wreaked havoc and we felt extremely thankful we hadn’t left Getaway there as we’d intended. Once again fate had taken care of us. Like a cat, does our caravan happen to have nine lives???
6 July: Our Mexican Taco evening at ‘Rojo Rocket’ celebrating Leecy’s arrival in the world 60 years ago!
As party day approached we drove down to the Kings School in Parramatta with a fully laden SKV containing easels, canvases, masks and all the other bits and bobs required to make up the decor for the night. Saxon flew in from Perth and joined us at Forrest House for a family dinner with sister Shell, Keith and their three Holly, Carmen and Byron who’d arrived for family time before the celebration.
Sisters and nieces began working flat out from Friday evening preparing the Pavilion for the Saturday night party. George and Keith working with the nephews did all the man things. The theme and dress for the party had been taken from Oscar Wilde’s words “One should either be a work of art or wear a work of art” – George went as ‘Dr Picasso’ as nicknamed by his sister-in-laws since taking up art. Lea dressed in the flamboyant colours of Frida Kahlo but it was the distinctive mono-brow that George found most disconcerting throughout the evening! Leecy, appropriately dressed as “Wild Things” from Rumble in the Jungle and Chris came as Picasso’s Harlequin.
Framing the Birthday gal Leecy, Chris and us!
Not since January 1996 have four sisters been together. Shell came as Monet’s ‘water lilies’ and with ‘no flies’ on Holly, as you can see - she came as a work of art.
Strong Howman genes exist in the next equally noisy, generation of girls...
This most successful party went on into the wee hours even after the band stopped playing. The boarding house provided beds for all the family. Keith singlehandedly provided eggs and bacon brunch to set everybody right next day.
Suitcase marks her spot as Saxon captured a photo of the mob on the River-Cat sailing down the Parramatta River to Circular Quay for a wonderful day in Sydney. George, Lil Holly - Lea, Talya - Shell, Carmen and Holly.
We drove back to Killcare that evening with all the party debris aboard and decided we just were not organised enough to leave at first light. We stayed another day!
Arising at Chris and Sheldon’s unearthly work hour we hit the road to ensure we reached Burrendong Dam well before darkness taking a homeward route northwards up the Pacific Highway to Maitland before we rejoined the Golden Highway at Braxton and shortly afterwards passed the Broke turn-off we had taken to Central Coast. Thereon we retraced the Golden Highway as far as Sandy Hollow before changing direction to Mudgee travelling through Wollemi National Park. We’d been dismayed to count four dead wombats going down the Hunter Valley and yet on our return journey, partly through conservation areas we were surprised to count another seven. The Bylong valley was particularly beautiful as we wound up the lonely road glad not to have Getaway in tow. Protest banners suggested the coal mining fraternity have an eye focused here. On reaching Mudgee we stopped at the Information Centre before taking a walk through the town and buying our groceries. Nothing really grabbed our attention and we were soon back on the road, taking a short cut through the farming district towards Burrendong Dam only to find we couldn’t get through to our side. Despite this hiccup we eventually made it round and arrived ‘home’ to find all was in good order and easily hitched up and returned to our site overlooking the dam.
As we pulled out next day a fellow camper waved us down and we promptly realised we’d forgotten to wind down the TV aerial! Glad that happened, as a most interesting conversation arose thereafter... The stress of newspaper work had initiated a heart attack and a change of life style for this man. Taking to bicycles (of all things!), Peter Guppy and wife Barbara cycled their way round Australia from January to September 2008. PedallingAustralia.Blogspot.com if you fancy reading another version of travelling Australia! These interesting two, full of useful tips, have given up on their ‘winnebikos’ and now move about the country in a 4x4 campervan, farm-sitting.
We didn’t travel far that day stopping at Wellington Caves Caravan Park. A Japanese garden and a little museum entertained us well until we joined the lunch hour tour down Cathedral Cave.
Lea stands before the inspiring 15 metre flowstone structure of calcium carbonate that reminded us of the cotton castles seen at Pamukkale, Turkey.
We planned to go as far as Molong and then search out Kerr’s Creek, a historic village that appeared to have fallen off the map since we visited in 1994! With no one around in a caravan park that was unduly close to the main road on a sharp bend - we decided this was not for us and went in search of Molong Post Office. The mistress was unable to help us until her eyes lighted on a long-time local who promptly put us on the road to Euchareena with instructions that Kerr’s Creek was on the Burrendong road, the very road we’d have taken to Orange IF we hadn’t decided to see the caves! Fine sheep farming country rolled by all the way to Orange, with no sign of Kerr’s Creek! We found a site at Colour City Caravan Park, before going in search of an oil change and re-grease of wheel bearings for SKV. Eventually someone was prepared to fit us in during the course of Monday! While following the street map- Icely Road leapt out- Now this was familiar and we realised the passing years had probably muddled our heads! A phone directory gave us Helen and Stewart Hayne’s farm number. Their youngest son, Jock gave us his parent’s city details. We left a message on their answering machine and we wondered if they would even remember us. December 1994, during our first visit to Sydney and Australia, Leecy, John and Sheldon had brought us up to the Blue Mountains and on to Orange to spend a couple of marvellous days with Helen and Stewart on their farm. We’d kept in contact until we took up our nomadic lifestyle. Their welcoming warmth re-injected our lives with their return call and we realised our pleasant ‘wild goose chase’ had actually brought us to their doorstep! They were going to Molong next day for the unveiling of a new War Memorial in the morning and a rugby match in the afternoon. Sunday arrangements were made to see them.
First up next day, we put on a load of washing as the weather forecast wasn’t sounding bright for the coming days. This resulted in us having to turn down an invitation to join the Haynes for a day in Molong - fortunately we didn’t know it was a Boer War Memorial then and, I doubt we’d have coped with the cold at the rugby match. Once our washing was on the line we set off on a scenic drive up Mount Canobolas while we had clear skies. This striking feature is the highest peak within a straight line between the Blue Mountains and Perth and being a volcanic basalt mountain, it was interesting to find it was part of a semi continuous volcanic chain that includes the Warrumbungle’s. Spectacular views in every direction met us at the top and much as we’d like to have taken walking tracks to make the most of the views across vineyards and orchards, the chill factor was just too much with ice patches lying about. We followed a road to Federal Falls Picnic ground before taking a boundary road through state pine forests, back to Orange. A missed turn took us the opposite direction and before we knew the day was gone and washing was waiting to be brought in if we were to avoid the evening damp.
Over a relaxed Sunday lunch with Stewart and Helen Haynes we caught up on the years. Much later we left Helen to prepare for a six week teaching stint beginning next day while Stuart took us on a drive out to Suma Park Reservoir and round to the birthplace of the Australian poet and South African war correspondent - Banjo Paterson. Curiously, he adds an extra thread of interest for us. In late 1988, Lea’s parents paid their first visit to their two daughters Sheryl and Alice, living in Australia. While out walking, their father came across a Boer War Memorial in Parramatta which piqued his interest and this was further ignited, when Keith and Shell took them to Canberra. At the War Memorial, Roger was astonished at the number of Australian volunteers lost in the Boer War. This triggered the historian within him and he returned to Zimbabwe and began researching the “Australian Bushies”. This was published in the History Society of Zimbabwe’s magazine “Heritage” No.10 in 1991. During his research he discovered the poetry of the war correspondent Andrew Barton Paterson and a passionate interest in Banjo’s compositions simply grew as he recognised the mirror image of an Australian life so similar to Rhodesia, during the early 1900’s. Helen and Stewart’s interest in the Boer War primarily arose from both having uncles that fought in the Boer War. Alice lent them her copy of Dad’s “Australian Bushies”. Furthermore, living in central New South Wales- the heartland for most of the Citizen Bushmen connected to this African War, Helen and Stewart were surrounded by tales arising from it. In August 2000, Helen and Stewart joined Australians on a Centenary Tour of the Boer War Battlefields – no wonder we feel a bond to them!
Come Monday morning, George had a wonderful ‘male day out’ with Stewart, as soon as he’d dropped SKV off for a service. They went out to Kerr’s Creek and joined son, Jock for an extensive tour of their 3,000 acre sheep farm. That evening, meeting up at ‘Union Bank’ for fish and chips, Helen presented us with her book “Poor Jim Has Died” which follows a more personal tale of the Citizen Bushmen journey through Mozambique (Portuguese East Africa) and Rhodesia to Mafeking and the Transvaal campaigns. A wide reaching story centred on Jim Duff who died at the Siege of Elands River, with Helen’s Uncle Andy beside him. Jim’s monument at Millie (a coaching stop between Moree and Narrabri no longer in existence) was found in a paddock, near the road and in efforts made to remove it to a better position, caused an outcry from the ‘truckies’, according to Stewart – as this was a special landmark for them! We have become engrossed in her book- places we have visited these past months have grown more meaningful that we will just have to revisit, with this special book for close reference. It bridges our past and our present beautifully.
Stewart and Helen Haynes of Orange
Leaving Orange, the Haynes had recommended we make a short detour to Millthorpe, a National Trust village representing outstanding examples of colonial architecture and streetscapes from the 1800’s. As we approached Millthorpe, heavy drizzle was added to the biting wind and with no visible place to park our rig – we simply turned eastwards and continued on our way. Were our eyes playing tricks as we tried to focus on the odd marks occurring on our wind screen? Could it really be sleet, even snow-flakes? Arriving at the Bathurst Information Centre we were glad to seek warmth while we sought information on the best place with power, to base up for seeing the southern end of Wollemi National Park. Lithgow was recommended - another hour east. Off we set with an ominous looking mass of low cloud ahead of us.
We were soon caught up in a winter wonderland scene. On extreme edge, we crept along the icy mountainous highway in an ever worsening snow storm, build-up cascading down our windscreen to further unnerve us.
Close to Lithgow, the first caravan sign had us scuttle off the main road and seek refuge from this appalling weather in a deserted and seemingly quiet park. As the manager directed us into a site with snow falling on his jumper, Lea told him he was a hardy chap! With that, he apologetically said “it was only the second time it had snowed in fifteen years”- Why did we have to time it SO? Not long after we arrived the road between Lithgow and Bathurst CLOSED! The extreme cold aggravated the slight cough Lea had picked up in Sydney. Her chest tightened and she lost her voice. We stayed as warmly confined as possible in Getaway for the next three days with a busy railway line a mere 25 yards away shattering our peace, disturbing our sleep with regular vibrations and clickety clacks as hoots reverberated through our ‘van. Despite being surrounded by so many scenic attractions there was no point trying to visit in wet and windy conditions. Once Lea was feeling better we moved on into the World Heritage listed Blue Mountains region only to find low cloud, rain and foggy conditions put paid to any sightseeing. A site in Katoomba Falls Caravan Park proved a particularly expensive option under the circumstances. We had looked forward to caching up with Chris and Bettina Le Gras and their son Dominic – who had been in Lea’s Jabiru Preschool class in the Territory BUT as rain leaked into the caravan and fog continued swirling we decided the sooner we saw them the better. Unfortunately Chris was heavily occupied throughout the afternoon and evening and Bettina was working all afternoon. We arranged to meet her after work in Katoomba and together, enjoyed a meal in a little Korean eatery. Next day, the cloud seemed a little higher and we set off on a walk to Katoomba Falls hoping to see some of the views we recalled when John and Alice had brought us to the scenic railway in 1994. Landslides had closed off the track and the muddy, debris strewn steps down to the railway was not at all inviting. Drizzle began again and returning to the rig we inwardly knew our Blue Mountains experience had failed- we wanted to be dry! Retracing our steps through Medlow Bath, Blackheath, Mt Victoria and Hartley seeing little beyond the roadsides, we turned towards Oberon where grey skies lightened briefly allowing us to enjoy some cows with unusual white rumps appear to chase one of their own down a mountain side before we decided a cow-race was in progress or was it simply high spirits? Oberon held little appeal with its pulp mill gushing steam into the atmosphere; Bathurst’s Panorama Hill race track pushed no buttons for George and we continued along the road looking for sun. We found it in Blayney and stayed two nights. That Sunday, we drove back to Millthorpe, a mere 10kms north and enjoyed sauntering around the historic settlement and even splurged out on a slice of delicious carrot cake and a slice of lemon and sour cream cake with hot lemon syrup at Peppertree En Pym.
Pym Street in Millthorpe, with an avenue of verandahs
South of Blayney, we visited another National Trust village – the third oldest settlement west of the Blue Mountains destined to become a large administration centre until progress passed it by leaving a seemingly untouched village of a bygone era. Carcoar sheltered in the valley of the Belubula River with fine churches and residences rising gently up a hillside dominated by an old convent (now a prayer house). Ben Hall, the bushranger and his gang furthered their story for us at the bank here as this is where they attempted the first daylight robbery in the colony. We wondered about ‘inside knowledge’ on coming across the former residence of John Fagan. He had been the coach driver during the escort robbery at Eugowra – just too much of a coincidence for us! Weather turned against us during our time in Carcoar that we didn’t linger longer than necessary and returned to Blayney for our last night. Blue skies swirling with dark clouds provided amazing vistas across the broken terrain as we made our way to Cowra. We were looking forward to visiting Cowra as not only had Pete Ryan recommended seeing a Japanese POW Camp, we recalled positive comments in the book “Australia Down Under” by Bill Bryson about the town, making us keen to learn more. First stop was the Information Centre where we were soon absorbed in the story of the 1944 Cowra Breakout through a hologram styled production giving us the background to Cowra history. After taking a site in the town caravan park beside the Lachlan River, we spent a lovely afternoon exploring. First up, the Japanese Gardens – delightful as they were, Lea still thinks Durban’s Japanese Garden is finer!
The Gardens are not their best in winter but in the tranquil setting we spotted the first spring buds developing.
Following Sakura Avenue lined with bare Cherry trees to the site of the POW Camp, George could well imagine the delight of this road in springtime having been to Japan for that time of year. Unlike the POW Camp we had visited in Western Australia, there was scant remaining to mark buildings across the grassy slopes. However, a replica Guard Tower put in place in 2007 with an automated audio presentation playing from the tower brought an ambiance to the scene and along with display boards, we easily visualised the camp where burning beds were left; blankets thrown over barbed wire to aid the ‘Escape of Honour’ launched simultaneously by four separate groups of between 200-300 Japanese soldiers on the 5 August 1944. Their ‘face-saving’ culture, we find difficult to understand, recorded an alarming death toll on Australian soil in war time and thrust Cowra into the headlines and history books as the Cowra Breakout. Another few kilometres on, we visited the War Cemetery and found ourselves taken aback by the old ages of many Japanese graves. We are used to youngsters not those well into their fifties, sixties and seventies. Later, we determined that as this is the only Japanese War Cemetery retained in Australia, it contains not only the soldiers killed in the Cowra Breakout, it includes Japanese pilots killed in the bombing of Darwin and all Japanese Nationals who died on Australian soil during the Second World War. Much further away, in the midst of Cowra’s residential area we came across the Garrison Gates, the only intact remnants of the POW Camp around which, is suitably planted with rosemary, in remembrance. Rising out of past sadness, came RECONCILIATION and a special relationship between Cowra and Japan is obvious all over town.
The magic of lighting reflected across the crumpled landscape with bouts of sun and rain continuing to stay with us as we travelled to Wyangala Waters State Park on the junction of the Lachlan and Abercrombie Rivers, some forty kilometres east of Cowra. We had thought to spend a week here as we were well ahead of our rough schedule but the awkward, uneven state of formal caravan sites didn’t appeal. In addition, we had NO signal for mobiles, modem or TV – a sad state of affairs! Unfortunate too, we have purposely kept our caravan tank empty to reduce weight and prevent nightly freezing only to find all water here discoloured and has to be boiled for consumption unless we walk to a rainwater tank, some distance away – which is a real bother in winter. No State Water Park has compared as favourably as Copeton Waters - we moved on after two nights.
Passing back through Cowra we continued on to delightful Gooloogong providing a gold coin donation caravan park on their village green under a flawless blue sky with wattle bushes in full yellow bloom adding splashes of bright colour. A perfect little spot! Growing in an area of the Green, depicting the proud history of Gooloogong, we found a Gallipoli ‘Lone Pine’ descendent... We have a fascination for these pines, having stood at the foot of the Lone Pine in Gallipoli. According to Canberra War Archives, the original was actually smashed to pieces during the onslaught and used by the Turks to cover their trenches. The one we saw standing alone in Gallipoli was actually grown on Australian soil and taken back to its homeland and planted in the Lone Pine cemetery by two Diggers on the 75th anniversary of Gallipoli. Confusing! Especially when the tale exists of an original Gallipoli cone being sent home to a ‘green-fingered’ Mum in Australia- who grew three seeds of which only two survived and one died as happened to her three soldier sons. We weren’t too sure about this Gooloogong pine as it mentions her two surviving trees. One, planted in Canberra at the Opening of the War Memorial to the memory of her son and all other sons that fell at Lone Pine. (We stood before that one too) While the second was planted and cared for by the RSL in Inverell, as the three brothers were born and bred there. So, are the lone pines we have paid respect to in Gooloogong and Cowra third generation or did other soldiers bring home seed during a time when quarantine was lax!
We’d like to have stayed the maximum three days in Gooloogong but again we were surprised to have no mobile or internet signal and we moved on to Grenfell. Historically a gold fever town- the richest in the colony and it is here, on the Grenfell mining fields, Henry Lawson was born before his parents moved on to the Gulgong/ Mudgee area. Amazing that two renowned Australian poets – Lawson and Paterson, were born and brought up within close proximity of each other in Central NSW – certainly something inspirational in this landscape! Not far west from Grenfell was the Weddin Mountains National Park. Another perfect winter sky had us shoot out there for the afternoon. First visiting Seaton’s Farm nestled at the base of the mountain and reflecting the life and circumstances of a family over 35 years of endeavour and depression farming. Since 1983, the National Park has preserved this historical farming site with its homestead and buildings constructed from second hand corrugated iron beaten out to make it stretch; mud, earth and hand cut timber. Jim Seaton was an inveterate collector. Nothing went to waste, even his fencing was hand made out of cast off remnants. The harsh realities make it a gem of a place!
Peering into one of Jim Seaton’s sheds.
With the discovery of gold in a region stretching from Lambing Flats (now called Young- we are heading there on Monday) to Forbes came a colourful period of colonial history that lasted from 1859-1865; the rise of Bushrangers! Weddin Mountain’s place in history arose as a result of the perfect havens provided for Bushrangers. Fact or fable ‘tis said the gold from the Greatest Australian Robbery outside Eugowra, was hidden in these mountains and never found... This brings Ben Hall back into our lives. However, we have been thinking about him and wonder why he stands out in history when there were at least ten men associated with the gang over time and Ben wasn’t even leader, Frank Gardiner was!
Our view from Ben Hall’s Cave in the Weddin Mountains looked across fertile alluvial flats of the Lachlan Valley, a position that must have given the outlaws a sense of security.
That brings July to a close and after Young tomorrow we continue eastwards towards the Shoalhaven region down on the coast.
