Saturday, September 21, 2019

Tramping tales for June 2019


The Zimbabwe door was about to close behind us as another fortunately opened down in KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa. We were aboard the flight to Johannesburg, literally waiting for the cabin doors to be locked when a security official walked up the aisle and stopped at our seats. “Would one of us come and identify our luggage” sent expressions of alarm; had we even heard correctly.  Once Security explained there was something of interest within one suitcase, George immediately knew it was the hippo tooth he’d picked up on the shores of Lake Kariba and he left with the official.  Lea’s imagination went into overdrive as she had seen a huge sign at the entrance to the airport that NO plant or animal parts were to be taken out of the country.  The plane waited and Lea breathed deeply trying to remain calm.  Relief was to see George come back down the aisle and in a casually off-hand manner say Customs had been most interested to know it was a hippo tooth not a tusk! Further, he kindly told them they could have it!
   
We lived in KwaZulu-Natal, a province of South Africa for twenty years and made wonderful friends.  Over the coming weeks we were to be a ‘Begg parcel’ handed from one set of friends to another – spending two nights with each to ensure we had quality time without being smelly fish!  Originally, we had given the months of June and July to the province, warning we’d have to remain very flexible during this period as our son and family would try to fit us into their busy schedule over a two-week window.  This resulted in an immediate response friends who had prior commitments. Thankfully for us, they wanted to get in first with definite dates on the calendar.

Over Easter, Lea mentioned to son Keith that she hoped he would not beckon us to Mozambique during the first two weeks of June as a busy itinerary had been set in place! The day before we flew to Africa, Keith confirmed dates and flights for Mozambique were sorted.

Shan Charter collected us from King Shaka Airport and conversation soon turned to Mana Pools, as she would shortly be off there on the first stage of her own ‘Africa Adventure’ heading northwards.

 
 The beautiful home in Mt. Edgecombe Estate where Shan lives with ‘Pumba’ the Staffy.


 Shan had booked breakfast at the Mount Edgecombe Clubhouse on the estate after discovering her Bird Course Lecturer knew George.

And so, we all breakfasted together with George’s old friend Anthony (“Ticky”) Forbes and his partner Nicolette (Nicky).  Ticky dated back to Rhodes University days with George in the Zoology Dept and College House.  Wonderful conversations flowed fast…  A sure sign that we come from a different era – no one looked at their device or thought to take a photo!  Fortunately, Shan kept an eye on the clock as we needed to ensure visas for Mozambique were actioned. She had kindly set aside the morning to help us achieve this - taking us to the Mozambique Consulate.  What sounded simple turned out to have hiccups and Shan smoothed and solved them all.  We returned home to prepare for an important event Shan was hosting that night. Her son Craig’s 40th birthday dinner with a gathering of the Charter Clan to celebrate.  

    

Soon after Lea arrived to live in Durban, she met Mariena Rautenbach who in turn became the cog for Lea befriending Shan Charter and Ruth Smith.  Shan began a weekly tennis morning and Lea joined, keen to settle and meet people with young children.  Saxon was 18 months and Shan had a daughter the same age. For old times, Shan had arranged lunch for the few left in Durban.  Lea had been stunned to learn on landing in Durban that her long time ‘shamwari’ - Ruth Smith had been diagnosed with cancer during the time we’d been in Zimbabwe. Ruth had been admitted to hospital the night we arrived in readiness to undergo oesophageal surgery – all very frightening.  Shan’s lovely relaxed luncheon on her veranda took place with Marina Rautenbach and Ingrid Knott joining us. Again, time overtook all the chatter … We not only had to collect our passports and visas before Consulate closing time; we were expected for dinner up in the Clifton Hills beyond Kloof. Shan’s daughter and Saxon’s very close childhood ‘sister’ friend - Keryn and husband, Crispin live in the forested Everton Conservancy district with their two, Taya and Connor. The chill factor caught us up there and we refused to sit out on the beautiful decking – cuddled up in the lounge with a blanket was preferable. The magnificent slab of sirloin covered in thick salt cooked in the coals of a fire by Crispin. Served with Keryn’s pumpkin pie, it was utterly delicious.




 Lea and Keryn

In the last hours before Garth and Trish Macartney came to collect us, we took an early morning 6 km walk around the Country Club Estate with Shan. Mostly, our walk took us along the beautifully laid out golf course with its impala, bird life and plants, reminding ourselves this had all once been a sugar cane plantation.




Garth and Trish Macartney duly collected us and took us to their home in Ballito, up the North Coast from Durban.  On our way, Garth drove down to Westbrook Beach for us to see all the changes that have taken place around our old home ‘Deeseven’.  The quiet little beach road of old-fashioned little holiday houses has been transformed into mansions with secure walls that we scarcely recognised the place. In Ballito we settled into the delightful beach side apartment Garth and Trish call home.  In cold windy conditions, we took a walk along the promenade before settling down to drinks and a curry supper while we caught up on all the years. Joan Macartney was Lea’s ‘Other Mother’ during her years at Teacher’s College in Bulawayo. Many Saturday afternoons were spent watching Garth play schoolboy rugby.  Garth too, became a teacher and headmaster up in Zimbabwe and we kept in sporadic touch through his mother. Now a grand old lady of almost 97 living outside Johannesburg. 



After breakfast we took a walk in a northerly direction along the promenade (recently damaged by a storm) which lies below what is now little more than a ghastly sea of concrete buildings.  Later, Garth and Trish took us to The Market – an amazing array of shops and restaurants, all very busy and in an immaculate condition.  Where were all the ominous signs we’d been warned about of the wheels falling off in South Africa?  To us, as returning ex residents and after our trip to Zimbabwe, we found places like Umhlanga Rock surrounds and now Ballito simply exuded wealth, progress and an exceptionally high standard of living.   We ended up having lunch at the uMhlali Country Club.   Well into the afternoon rain came and we settled to watch a semi-final tennis match being played at Roland-Garros – Djokovic going down after 5 sets to a young Austrian by name of Thiem.  Before showing Garth and Trish something of our ‘Life on the Road’ and photos from our Kariba trip.

Early Sunday morning we walked the promenade in a southerly direction as far as the shopping centre and heard about white-bearded Barry, a homeless man (formerly from Kalk Bay in the Cape) and fisherman who lived under the deck (protected by the umbrella shown below) and fishes for a living.



On the return, Lea was able to enjoy a telephone conversation  with her dearest Joan Macartney before Garth drove us further north  as far as Sheffield Beach; before returning  to walk through a patch of dune forest on the edge of Ballito cared for by Water-berry, an attractive home industries tea room.  Comrades Marathon weekend and we were able to a little of the race on TV before “pass the parcel” once more. Like the Macartney’s, Bob & Alison Cassells were soon to take off for the UK for time with their daughters. The Cassells took us back to Durban and their enormous old house with high ceilings on the Berea.  Bob had much to tell us about the situation in South Africa – the collapse of Tongaat-Huletts group with sugar mills closing and the industry being at an all-time low; Escom being in dire straits due the corruption and incompetence of the government; South African Airways in the same boat (currently requiring a 4 billion rand bale out) and the local municipalities all unable to cope any longer. For all the outward appearances of a wealthy country – underground, corruption and incompetence were “white anting” the South African economy.


 Alison holds a rat - just one of a wonderful array of hand-knitted rats.  Lea could have bought them all for her Rat friends. 

10 June – the second anniversary of daughter leaving this life. We’d asked Alison and Bob to take us down to the Durban Beach front around Joe Cools in Justy’s memory.  Justine regularly met up with her school mates and members of her many basketball teams at this particularly stretch on Durban’s North beach. We had scavenged bougainvillea petals during our drives at Ballito in readiness to mark this day. Opposite Joe Cools is one of many beachfront groynes jutting out to sea. A perfect site to recall the many pleasures our daughter had brought us in her lifetime as we tossed the petals. We followed the moments of contemplation out on the groyne by taking Bob & Alison to lunch inside Joe Cool with its panoramic sea views. The place was alive with Comrades Marathon runners and their entourages. Some still stiff and sore.  After lunch we drove the length of Durban beachfront in a southerly direction as far as the harbour entrance and found derelict Point Road undergoing some rehabilitation.  

 

Next day we moved on to Andy and Loraine Tribe.  Not only was Andy recovering from having had all his toes amputated from his left foot (with a ‘bolt cutter’ as poor circulation had led to gangrene, according to him) His much loved car was with panel beaters, after it slid on wet leaves covering their steep driveway and landed down in the neighbouring yard. The Cassell’s kindly took us over to the Tribe home in Westville.  They too had a difficult time getting out of the steep drive.  


 George with his best Book-keeper Loraine and Andy Tribe.

Lunch was ready almost immediately and we sat down to enjoy Loraine’s meal. There we sat for the next 8 hours straight as we caught up of the ‘drama’ of Tribal life and their plans to hopefully sell their home.  It has become a real burden on them both. Their age and health, fast making life impossible for them.  Next day, George needed some physical exercise and began to skim the mass of fallen leaves and debris off the surface of their bright green swimming pool in order to see the fish that apparently lived there!  He also swept up lethal leaves covering the steep driveway.   Having no car presents problems for Lorraine and Andy.  Consequently, when our friends caught an Uber to the Westville shopping centre, we had a few hours to ourselves and reflected on the trials and tribulations of our dear friends, the Tribes. The only solution was to pack up and move back to Australia – that too, is a very daunting task.

The original arrangement had been for the four of us to drive inland to Howick to see Rob & Heather Finlay’s new home.  With Andy’s problems he’d made alternative plans - the Finlay’s drove down to collect us and at Andy insistence we all squeezed into Rob’s Land Rover (Freelander) and went to a restaurant undergoing alterations. We all enjoyed a good lunch but again eye on the clock, as Rob wisely did not want to be caught in rush-hour heading inland or drive into the blinding sun, as it set. There was a huge number of heavy trucks using the N3 between Durban, Pietermaritzburg and beyond. There are awful problems of trucks being set alight on the N3 highway by members of the Transport Union who object strongly to the drivers being non-South Africans.  There are horrible issues of xenophobia occurring in this country. 


 Rob & Heather recently left Amanzimtoti to retire in the cooler climes of Falls Downe Estate, Howick.

As soon as we had our bags down in the bedroom, Rob and Heather took us on a brisk walk around the small, bush like estate to get our bearings and see other houses under construction.  Thankfully their newly built home had double glazed windows. Rob lit a fire, further ensuring a very snug night for us all. Heather had been George’s secretary for all the years he ran EAS. Friday morning, Rob drove along the familiar road we’d used so often during Keith’s school days and part of the Midlands Meander. We called in at Michaelhouse as Heather and Rob had never seen this beautiful school. We found preparations underway for a big event on the sporting calendar - the Hilton / Michaelhouse rugby match next day. George popped up to the school office to find Paul Fleischack – until recently the acting headmaster. He was in a board meeting. We began a tour of the school only to get no further than the school rugby field where began a banter with a Hilton parent, Kit Bottriell busy securing a ringside seat for the match. We landed up finding much in common and conversations flew in all directions. He had spent years in Zimbabwe (ex-PATU, Bindura) and expressed great interest in our grey nomad way of life in Australia.  Before we knew time had passed and there was Paul Fleischack! Meeting over, he’d heard we were around and found us! 


Paul, Lea, Heather and Rob in winter gear!  George????


 We lunched at the brewery attached to the Rawdon’s Hotel.

On the way home, Finlay’s dropped us off at Elizabeth Gardens Village in Howick to visit with our dear old friends (ex-Kariba), Hilary and Chris Thorne.



‘Stoffel’ still plays tennis and is a most sprightly octogenarian. Although Hilary has difficulty with mobility, she keeps herself physically busy to the best of her ability. She is always a stimulating conversationalist and her insightful messages were of immeasurable support during Justine’s terminal illness.  As we Chris brought out the tea-tray a woolly necked stork landed on the lawn immediately in front of us, closely followed by another.



The first of the habituated Woolly Neck Storks we were to meet during our sojourn in KwaZulu-Natal. These pair would eat the Thorne’s out of house and home if they had their way! Chris has trained them to come for a few tit-bits at this time only. A cat sauntered down the path and neither cat nor bird took the slightest notice of each other.  Later, daughter Berenice and granddaughter arrived from Joburg, enabling us to have a brief chat with Berenice before Chris took us back to Falls Downe Estate. 

In the gloaming, Findlay’s took us on a speedy stride across the fields overlooking the distant Howick Falls, hoping to see some of the game living around Falls Downe. We returned to find a power outage in the Howick area! Heather, well organised managed to put her dinner together and we ate by candle-light – the lights only came on after 9.30. The men had talked knives so with the light, Rob brought out his knife collection for George to see. (Rob is the owner of one of George’s trout knives) – among them was a dagger, beautifully made - George unexpectedly recognised as the work of his friend Mohammedy. They had learned to make knives together at the Durban Knife-making Club.  
 
As we’d never seen the Karkloof and the Woodhouse Falls, Rob and Heather took us up there that Saturday morning before delivering us to Wedgewood Estate outside Hilton, where we were to stay with John & Maureen Pattrick especially to catch up with their son Sean, Sue and their two children.




Another beautiful home overlooking open grassland with Oribi and reedbuck in the vlei below, duiker coming up to feed on the grain Maureen put out on the front lawn – even a few crowned cranes passed overhead. Pattrick’s also have Woolly necked storks pop in to find a meal.  

No sooner had we settled with John and Maureen than Sean and Sue Pattrick arrived with Ross, Ella and Bailey the Labrador – to join us for a long-awaited lunch. Sean has always been our ‘other’ son – a close friend to Keith. Long years have passed since we’ve had time with Sean and Sue. Meeting their two kids was an absolute joy. Wonderful to hear their excitement over big brother Ben flying out from England to join his African family for a few weeks.


 Bailey a wonderfully obedient dog, trained by Sean. 

Knives came up again! Sean, who’d had learnt his early skills from George in the workshop; had brought examples of the knives he is now forging – one a replica of Wolhuter’s famous knife (the one Wolhuter killed a lion with). Another made from a piece of Damascus steel that Sean had forged himself, as was the hardening and tempering. George was more than impressed.

Monday morning, we awoke to the awful news from Saxon our beloved long dog Harley dog had died over in Australia. We had arranged to go across to our next home later in the afternoon, having discovered we could briefly catch up with Pattrick son number 2 as the family passed through Hilton on their way home from a long weekend away.  We attempted to go and see a Gallery in Hilton that morning only to find it closed for the long weekend. We spotted the historic Crossways Hotel and on the spur of the moment decided it was a good place to lunch together before making sure we were back at Wedgewood to see Neil and meet his wife Samantha and three kids -Luke, Georgie and Annabel as they passed through before Maureen delivered us to Horse and Sue Davies, a short distance away. 

Henry Horse and Lea go right back to childhood as their father’ were close friends. Horse and George were at Peterhouse together – and despite passing years we always pick up where we left off… that night we shared the family news.  Next day, the men sat in a sunny spot in the lower garden  and immersed themselves in deep discussion over the South African Crane Foundation and ‘Horse’s’ involvement with a property  up in the Tuli Block (Limpopo River) while  Sue and Lea found themselves an equally warm spot in  another corner of the garden and shared tears.  After lunch, George accompanied Horse and Pete Thompson (former regional ecologist with Natal Parks Board on an outing to see the degraded wetland area that lies between the black township of Mpopomeni and Midmar Dam. The plan being to restore its cleansing function and reduce the severity of pollution occurring from the sewage works in the township.


Pete and Horse look at one of the structures and deflection berms put in place to spread contaminated water into the wetland area.

Yet again the subject of knives arose that evening. This time it focused on the badly worn bone handled knives that Sue & Horse use. Generations of use had us wondering about the stories these knives could tell and their strangely artistic shapes; recently, one had cut Horse so badly while he trimmed leaves off some aloes – that was a dramatic story in itself!  All led to Sue to giving George a most unusual, tiny Corn Knife folder she had among her collection of drawing instruments! 

The next day, Horse took George to see bird hides (designed by Mike Excelby) on the farm Garthmore where the Karkloof Conservancy had set up an information centre and walking trail.



 
After lunch, George accompanied Horse to the dentist in Howick just in case the tooth, he had to have removed, did not stop bleeding.

While the men were out, Lea accompanied Sue to the local shopping centre in her 1982 bright yellow ‘matchbox’ Mini 1275!  Lea barely able to get into the seat that had seen better days or had taken so much strain from tall folk exiting, it lurched backwards!  Little did she realise she was in for the most exhilarating and scary ride of her life. Two old ladies giggling their heads off as they took a strange somewhat magical ‘carpet ride’… Clothes pegs required to get this vintage girl going- They held the choke out! Therefore, the revving noise made flying out the gate onto the road, seem even speedier.  Bear in mind, Lea is used to the height of a 4X4 – Here she was virtually lying backwards in a car just inches off the ground as Sue madly accelerated for take-off. We literally flew up the steep hill, swerving violently around speed humps as if the ‘box’ was out of control as it sent leaves airborne. All so unexpected for Lea – the shock of it all only added further hilarity.  We arrived at destination and a struggle to get out ensued for Lea. A man of our era, returned to his car parked beside us, at that moment and recounted his memories of mini’s as he laughed with us.   Both Horse and Sue own little old cars that are well-known in and around Hilton and Howick. Both receive constant pleas to sell their respective vehicles every time they go out in them, too! 


 Was Sue in control or not on this hair-raising trip! (not her actual car – the nearest image we could find)

Eventually we were done in the supermarket – bit slow as folk greeted ‘Mrs Hat’!  SO, Lea learned Sue’s Hilton name – Sue never goes without a hat anywhere since her skin cancers.  We popped into an Op-shop to check for old picture frames - something artist Sue regularly does - no frames, but a beautiful big hat caught our eyes. Just Perfect!


  Woman’s Business going on under the big Hat!

Pattrick’s collected us from Horse and Sue that evening and returned us to Wedgewood Estate. While we were away, Maureen had booked a visit to Marcus Kruger’s Arusha Designs Gallery.  Marcus, a self-taught cabinet maker showed us around. Of great interest was the delicately carved flowers (petals) made from poplar wood by another local artist - Avanesh Datadin.  Marcus made mention of the dangers of working with spalted timber - the dust arising known to cause lung cancer. George loves working with spalted wood and takes no precautions!  Marcus took George around his workshop to see the wooden, foot-powered lathe he made and still uses as it controls both the speed and direction in which it turns. 




Sean had collected his son Ben, from the airport that morning and the family were coming up to Hilton to have lunch and spend the afternoon with us all – more welcome time with this family.

Pattrick’s had kindly offered to return us to Durban. Next day, as we packed the car, Sean arrived with Ben and surprised us with a copy of his book Game Ranger in a Backpack. We were thrilled to bits and so enjoy the many unusual snippets contained within the pages of this great handbook.  We arrived in good time at The Pavilion Centre and enjoyed a farewell coffee at the Mugg & Bean with John and Maureen while we waited for Jan de Waal to arrive from Scottburgh.  Hello’s and goodbye’s  happen  so fast  that there is a topsy-turvy sense of neglect – Before we knew we’d transferred cars and were on our way down the south coast of Durban to Jan and Jean’s new home in Lakeview Village, Freeland Park  on the edge of Scottburgh for past 6 months.  Jean was excitedly waiting for us - our close friendship dates to Kariba when she was the terrible typist for the terrible biologist at Fisheries Research. A new bride at the time, she and Jan would often give the terrible teachers a ride into Salisbury.


 Overlooking Lakeview Village at Freeland Park

 Jan and his dogs

George and Lea had both been forewarned about the two dogs; a black Labrador Kola in his first year of preparation, prior to formal training as a Guide dog and a golden retriever Daisy, who is the working dog face of newly formed Natal Guide Dog Association.  Jean had remained at home to be with the dogs while Jan fetched us. Jan had previously been a dog trainer up in Johannesburg for the Guide Dog Association and was now helping set up a unit in Kwa Zulu-Natal.  We had to ignore the dogs unless told otherwise, so as not to upset early training routines.  Kola still very much a puppy wanting to play within the small confines of house and garden – It was most interesting to watch dog and trainer interaction.  That evening, with Kola wearing her jacket emblazoned ‘working puppy in training’ or words to that effect – he sat in the front passenger well of the car, at Jean’s feet. We were going out to meet up with Jan’s sister Marijke and husband Hugh Stringer at Stones Pub & Grill a very popular joint, this Friday night with live music.  Kola the Labrador was told to ‘vanish’ – he did just that - under the table. 

Our first morning began with a 4km walk through the Lakeview Estate for George. He joined Jan taking Kola on a training exercise. There was much talking going on that it was only after lunch that we managed to get going … En route to the Somerset Mall, we stopped at the Scottburgh Cemetery to visit the Memorial Wall where George’s parents   ashes lie. We were all deeply shocked to find the Wall of Remembrance had been vandalized, many of the marble plaques and boxes containing ashes scattered everywhere.



Fortunately, George and Molly’s tiny vault had not been smashed open or tampered with. Lea found a security guard on duty and learnt that possibly the persons responsible had either been drunk with no respect for cemeteries or drugs hoping to find something of value inside the wall.  More depraved was an opinion that by adding ashes of the dead into mixture used to inhale through “whoonga straws”. On returning home we Googled Scottburgh Cemetery and found this damage had occurred three years ago, May 2016. No one had cleared up the mess! The report spoke about looters looking for gold teeth in the ashes; tell-tale signs of rituals having taken place; the possibility of teenagers being the culprits (from the sweet papers left behind); or the vagrants known to sleep / take shelter at the site.

Jan decided to take both dogs on the walk through the village next day, putting George in charge of Daisy with instructions on how to manage her! So much for that - Daisy pulled like a Husky in the Antarctic, nearly pulling George off his feet a few times especially down the steep slopes of the hillside.  Eldest daughter, Lynne Phipson and her house mate Bruce and her daughter Janine arrived from north Durban for a braai lunch with us. We watched vervet monkeys raiding the banana trees next door!

George and Jean with Geo’s fridge Caramel                                                                

 
 Cheers Girls!

The following day -


Morning tea and scones/pancakes at “Scotties” in the Scottburgh caravan park with Hugh, Jan, Marijke and Jean.

Afterwards we took a walk along the beach recalling places before taking a drive to the mouth of the Mkomazi estuary. Also drove past Bramley Lodge where George’s Dad lived for a couple of years – it’s changed its name to Summerhill Lodge.  So many familiar places from time spent around here. On returning home Jan and George spent the rest of the afternoon collecting and carrying flowerpots, both large and small, from the garden of a man leaving the village. We were supposed to join Marijke and Hugh for tea to see their home in the village. All held up by George and Jan still too busy to stop their work. We ended up going to their place for drinks and a light supper. Their house, beautifully designed and finished, looked directly onto a thickly forested area with stream below them. Having lived in Malawi, Marijke knew John Tarbit and David Eccles.   
          
Jan left early the next day, on Guide Dog’s Association business.  Kola and Daisy in the car as the ambassadors at a Golf Day fund raiser in Durban. Marijke and Hugh collected the three of us a bit later and we drove to Pennington to have breakfast in the historic Botha House – a palatial Cape Dutch building, named after Louis Botha, the first Prime Minister of SA, who’d had this “beach cottage” built for his wife, on the coast of Natal. 



A huge, gracious homestead, looking across rolling lawns with panoramic views was recently renovated by the Umdoni Trust and now runs as a Bed and Breakfast.  Breakfast was mediocre at best – it somehow lacked the panache of its setting.

Come afternoon, Marijke drove us down to the Blue Marlin hotel – a most beautiful setting. The hotel has recently  undergone a massive face lift and built a a most elegant undercover bar at the bottom of the property, overlooking the beach. We had coffee there- and really enjoyed  the whole ambiance.



With the ghastly scene at the cemetery playing on George’s mind – the decision has been taken to go and remove the plaque and ashes from the Wall of Remembrance. Jan drove him there with screwdrivers at the ready.  The container his Dad had kept Molly’s ashes in, had disintegrated.  The two men shot into town to find a suitable container.  A shop called Poor-man’s Paradise, run by an Indian couple produced a little box with a broken latch.  George bought it for R10 ($1). Upon asking what the box was for, George answered soil! Ah, said the shopkeeper rushed around looking for two stones he’d picked up in Namibia, for George to add… The two little stones accepted and subsequently labelled Molly and George before lid was sealed with silicon. They were put into George’s bag for the journey to the Cape in time. 
           
The Social Centre in the village has a Wednesday Roast Lunch and we duly went down and joined Marijke and Hugh for a last meal altogether. We were leaving in the morning. 

Wonderful days with Jan and Jean had come to an end. They drove us back to Sherwood in Durban. The dogs came too, as we were moving on to Bronwyn and Mike Brett in their ‘Strawberry Fields” home. de Waal's had known Bronwyn as a little girl in Kariba and were staying for lunch.  We found Bronwyn and Yoga the ginger cat waiting for us. Yoga, severely mauled by dogs six months ago took one look at the dogs and disappeared upstairs. Bronwyn took us down to the Oval to give Kola and Daisy a good run on the ‘Oval’ before we all settled on the veranda.  Mike returned home later that night. He is very busy on an upgrade of the Durban oil refinery.
 
Nursing Sister Brett took Lea across to Glen Anil to see Sister Ruth!  Barely three weeks since this dear friend had her massive surgery. She was now home, beginning the long slow process of convalescing. Ruth had lost a great deal of weight but not her spark or sense of humour for all she had been through.  It was good to be with her. Pieter took the opportunity to get out of the house and do some jobs and I felt comforted having Bronwyn with her knowledge and experience close at hand especially when Ruth had a bad turn. Smell of Bronwyn’s soup? We’d brought some lunch for ourselves… 
   
We went to dinner with Bronwyn and Mike’s second daughter, Justine, her husband Michiel and their little sons James and Daniel. They live in a splendid home high up on the hillside of La Lucia, in a new and secure Estate. Michiel, with his particularly delightful Afrikaans accent is a most interesting character. He travels the world inspecting the structural integrity of boats, yachts, oil rigs and barges (in other words anything that floats!) on behalf of a Norwegian based company.  He’d just come back from Pemba in Mozambique and Nosy Be, Madagascar doing just that.  
      
Bronwyn gave George a haircut before Lea’s cousin, Ruth Matthews arrived for lunch with her new partner, Larry Rodgers and his dog. Ruth has lived in Cape Town for the last forty odd years. She brought up a family single-handed and in the last year, found romance with Larry. Mid July, Ruth finally retired as a Community Nurse. The two of them travelled up from the Cape to attend a family 70th Birthday before heading to Limpopo region where Larry farms. Amazingly, Ruth’s sister Helen turned out to be married to Rob Dyer, Mike Brett’s cardiologist!



Another month came to an end and being a Sunday morning, Bronwyn decided brunch on the beach front would be good. We walked along the esplanade on the main beachfront. Places were packed and when we reached Joe Cools, we decided the view from the top would be most ideal on such a glorious day.  After ordering our breakfast – horrible music began blasting out and we almost up and left until the kindly manager stepped up and found us a quieter place.  Unreal to be back at Joe Cool twice in a month, never having set foot there during our life in Durban.


















Once back at Strawberry Fields, George noticed a neighbouring lady come out of her house with what looked like a bazooka to chase the monkeys away. Bronwyn remarked, she used a tazer! To which George rudely retorted “Why can’t you people learn to live with wildlife” Despite Mike considering us Bronwyn’s surrogate parents – she takes pays little notice!


Saturday, September 14, 2019

Tramping tales for May 2019


The footloose travellers set off for Africa in May to escape the Perth winter!

A bit over a year ago our dearest friend Hilary Middleton dangled a more than tempting trip to Kariba and Mana Pools before George! Retirement pending for Hilary and all of us well into the Biblical age of three score years and ten we needed to return to our ‘happy place’ together.  May was allotted to Hilary to put together some dates. A rough itinerary built up around May for 2019.  By year end the Zimbabwe fuel crisis threw us into consternation. By January we were concerned about imposing upon friends under difficult circumstances – other friends warned us about travelling to a volatile situation. We hummed and haa-ed!  Hilary’s ‘we make a plan’ reinforced by the Osterberg’s tipped the balance and by late April we’d booked our African Adventure knowing we’d go with the flow – no matter what arose in Zimbabwe…

Arriving back in Perth, we finalised our trip and made all necessary preparations for our Big African Adventure. Easter intervened to allow family time.  Departure time arrived with a moment of panic as we discovered Lea’s credit card had expired on the Uber account. The Family were out; No Saxon to sort out!  Fortunately, we managed to reinsert our card number and in short time we were queued for check-in at the airport. Geoff and Gloria Cornish were on the same flight and recognised us – a good natter after too many years took place and we promised to see them on our return.  

We were scheduled to spend a week with Osterberg’s and a week with Hilary.  Lynne and JG Osterberg collected us from the airport and took us to their new home in Dandara. Here, in a secure haven we found ourselves in a ‘time warp’ as sights, sounds and smells recreated an earlier life for us amidst surrounding gardens, their trees, plants and bird life.  Our social life revolved out on the veranda or the community club house, in its beautiful setting.
 
 
 Lynne, always our hostess with the mostest, was prepared for our friends - providing meals and tea at every turn.  Hilary came to tie up final plans for Kariba and Mana over dinner on our first night. Jeff and Jan Dick joined us for Sunday lunch at the club next day. Unfortunately, photographer forgot to record  or ‘lost’ pictures on many occasions! 

Social Media gives the impression that Zimbabwean Supermarkets and shops have empty shelves. We found the exact opposite visiting Avondale, Arundel Village, Borrowdale, Chisipite, Ballantyne Park and Bond Street shopping centres. All were busy and not once did we feel unsafe or pressured by street vendors. Everyone was friendly despite an underlying need to earn a bond or two.  Pick ‘n Pay, Spar, Bon Marche and The Food Lovers Market were all clean well-stocked shops with an amazing variety of good quality fruit and vegetables we haven’t seen in years - Cape gooseberries, gem squash and huge avocados caught our eyes.   Sure, the prices were in very difficult to obtain RTG notes - referred to as ‘Bondies’ by the locals, and therefore horrific.  Especially when it came to a wide range of everyday necessities.  Yet, for us carrying US Dollar it came down to a more than fair price in comparison to Australia.  For the man in the street on a set salary let alone the jobless or those eking out a living it is a very different and heartrending story.  Shortages were not obvious or desperately missed. We were told cokes were not available yet move on to another supermarket and there they were. When the time came - Lea, Hilary and Lynne met up to do the Big Shop for Mana and Kariba making it a fun morning together- certainly no headache. Billy’s Butchery in the Bond Street Centre provided all our selection of tasty meat and chicken along with biltong- that, didn’t last out until our trip! Hilary pre-ordered bottled water and fizzy drinks plus the more delicate vegetables from Kariba to be delivered directly to the houseboat.   We did not get the impression the Zimbabwe shopping sector was on its last legs – there was a pleasant hustle and bustle in these centres despite the extreme difficulties businesses face. Accusations of ‘greed’ was leveled at them too.  The monetary system was a nightmare with Bonds difficult to come by and exchange rates constantly changing.  We experienced that weekly!  
       
   
Sam Levy’s Village in Borrowdale still a delightful place to shop – pleasant garden surrounds too. Another notable and different shop with its thatched roof was Kava in Rolfe Valley. The artistically arranged displays of fresh food produce begged to be admired. We went there as it was considered to have the best selection of imported wines and we needed a gift!  Not being at all knowledgable about wine; we were relieved to have the manager come over. Meanwhile, he’d come to apologise for the constantly escalating prices. We readily accepted his choice of the best red and white,  preparing to reel at the cost! Instead, we were offered an 85% discount on US dollars which translated  into the best value for money wine, ever.
 

These hand carved meerkats caught our eye in the Avondale marketplace. Stringent Australian Custom regulations had George take a photo instead. As we were about to walk away, he touched one setting off a domino effect!

Over all the years of friendship with JG and Lynne, we have come to know almost all their close shamwaries -  some names are so familiar that we feel like we know them! Their neighbour, Bryan and Elaine Clark drew the Osterberg’s into living in Dandara, are one such couple.  Bryan was celebrating his 70th up at the club with a trip out on Lake Kariba the following day. We gathered at the club for a delightful evening. George was seen in deep conversation with two Peterhouse old boys of his era, Chris Nourse and Jeremy Lewis.  Towards the end of the evening Lea took a seat and was introduced  to the ladies. One, seemed to strike a hazy memory and after a bit of  Lea asked her      ‘Are you Suki’ – Susan Wilde?  She was!  Although Suki had obliterated all memories of Arundel from her mind, we took a gentle stroll through our joint school days.  Suki was Chris Nourse’s second wife. Seems Peterhouse and Arundel continue to form partnerships!
   
Wednesday morning was Maarsdorp Market Day – held in the residential garden of Helen Lovemore and her husband. Here again, we found an impressive array of locally produced food and homemade things filling the stalls. It was a social occasion with a lovely atmosphere - Helen in attendance, the very lady who had nursed George in hospital after his shooting accident in 1966.


The afternoon brought a visit from Cally and Dick Barton followed by Suzie Heyns for afternoon tea. During Lea’s school days she regularly went to stay with her school friend Geraldene on her sister’s farm.  June and Rob Elson had two tiny girls Cally and Maryann with Suzie on the way! Over the years, looking after this trio was a delight and, until we briefly met up with Cally and Maryann in Perth during 2017 we’d last seen these very much younger girls at our wedding.   George and JG found lots in common with Dick as they chatted out on the veranda while the ladies barely drew breath inside the house for the entire afternoon. The hours were just not enough and, worse – no photos!

Thursday morning brought Lea a phone call from Johannesburg. A sad call from Jamie Boland to tell of his mother’s passing – an emotional moment that had Lea put down the phone with no details or date of her close friend’s death after 61 years of friendship. Thank goodness for the Begg Africa Contact list found on Scottie’s computer!  Distraction came with Scott Honey arriving for coffee. Over which, he regaled us with his brother’s news. John Honey had just been honoured by the American Urological Association with a presentation of the Gold Headed Cane Award. An award that dated back to the 17th century when the cane was first carried by Dr Ratcliffe as it accompanied him on his consulting rounds of London from 1689 to 1714. He was considered the greatest physician of his time. Now here was our good friend, godfather to our daughter Saxon - John, this year’s recipient for his pioneering work in endourologic procedures and educating a generation of residents and fellows in minimally invasive urology. We basked in John’s reflected glory. Well! That was until Scott brought us back to earth relating the tale of John frightening a hippo while nonchalantly heading for his shower in Trichilia camp, Mana!  They had been warned of a semi habituated hippo wandering about… John received a hippo bite and knocked a loop – which amused George no end.
Day for watering the lawns. Lynne found the sprinkler would not work and JG found a blockage. George was called and he had a battle to dislodge and extract  ‘the problem’ … a small snake. Stone dead! We could only surmise it had crawled up the hose and shortly after,  the sprinkler had been attached cutting off it’s exit. The water forcibly lodged the snake within a tiny space and drowned it causing some excitement for us.


That evening we were booked into The Farmers Dining Club with Lynne and JG, his sister Di and Tim Tanser and Alex Masterson. It was good to catch up with them as our joint history dates to a friendship amongst our parents too. Good to see Tim after his miraculous recovery from injuries received after a black rhino gored him in Umfolosi National Park and of course Di – a cancer survivor.  The After-Dinner guest speaker was Jacqueline Anderson from Miracle Missions Trust speaking on the impact of Cyclone Idai, one of the worst tropical storms on record to affect Africa in the Southern Hemisphere.  March 2019, this category 2 cyclone caused catastrophic damage in Mozambique (Beira surrounds) Zimbabwe in the Chimanimani region and Malawi and leaving more than 1,300 people dead and many more missing.  Jacky spoke movingly of how the ordinary people of Zimbabwe rallied together to help their fellowman in the Eastern Highlands, suffering such devastation. Miracle Mission Trust – a networking organization identified the vulnerable communities; supported them and co-ordinated the many volunteers countrywide to help these vulnerable communities.    

Lynne has always made Friday a social Ladies coffee morning whether in South Africa or Zimbabwe. We strolled up to the club and met up with ladies from round and about. When our bill came to be settled the reality of the times was recognised. All being well paying for large items by way of eco-cash (cashless over the phone) or with a credit card – money for small amounts was sometimes required! These ladies took turns ‘taking the bonds’ each week and paying by card/eco-cash.  Come afternoon, Lea caught up with Penny Robb nee Lilford – a close friend from school days. Continuing the social roundabout, we joined up with John and Denise Jewell that evening for the weekly ‘happy hour’ at the club with background singing wafting out of the hall from a visiting Choir. John mentioned a fishing trip he’d been on over Easter as he’d just heard that one of eight men was in ICU over in England with cerebral malaria. Over a lazy Sunday lunch with John and Denise joined by Di and Tim Tanser; we were all very shaken to learn that the man visiting England along with a second man from the Easter fishing party had died within hours of each other, earlier that morning. The second fellow was out on the houseboat ‘Kalai’, with Bryan Clark’s party. 

Lynne and Lea were relaxing together nattering after filling tins and preparing frozen meals for our trip to Mana when a WhatsApp came in from Bronwyn Brett asking if Beggs had  been to Coober Pedy... she had just watched a documentary on this Australian underground town.  Lynne was keen to know the TV channel to pick it up on and an unexpected chain reaction followed… Bronwyn replied adding we should bring the Osterberg’s to Zinkwazi with us. Lea sent a flippant reply “No! You have to come here”. To cut a long story short – Bronwyn DID!  Lea rapidly sent a message to Hilary advising her of an extra person, coming to Mana/Kariba.  No response!  Somewhat twitchy, Lea sent another WhatsApp.  This time, Hil replied “How old is she”?  Which was received with much hilarity, as it was obvious, Hilary was recalling a 6-year-old girl from Lea’s classroom in the distant past.  Osterberg’s kindly collected Bronwyn from the airport, the afternoon before we departed.    
   
Osterberg’s bravely took us into Harare's city-centre during our week with them. We hadn’t ventured there in over twenty-five years. Why would we, when suburbs have all we need.  Over the years we generally fly into Harare for a day or two before going to Kariba and straight out afterwards.   This time we were spending 2 weeks in Harare sharing quality hours with Osterberg’s and Hilary while seeing as many friends as we could from the past. A city-centre opportunity arose, and we took a route imprinted upon our psyche.  Down past Harare Park and along what we once knew as Jamieson Avenue now Samora Machel into a city that no longer seemed to have landmarks we recognised! We could have been in Maputo or Nairobi.


Fuel Crisis? Traffic was horrific especially at intersections, with little to no rule of law. Even traffic lights – or robots as we called them in our day, were log-jammed and the foolhardy reversed out of this mess with total disregard for anyone else. We couldn’t wait to escape… Crowded pavements spilt people out onto roads, taxis hooted and yelled. Mayhem! We exited from an area behind Meikles Hotel and tried to scurry up second or was it third street towards Harare Sports Club; going on out to familiar Borrowdale, past Government House and its security. 

The state of the road in the city (of the little we recall) was fine. However, out in the suburbs, roads were lethal; we flatly refused to drive. Even as passengers we were always on edge especially at twilight when roadsides were hectic with workers walking or riding their bikes home, seemingly oblivious to the dangers that surrounded them. Several robots did not work, some had been toppled and lay rusting where they fell. Any open space either had the remnants of stunted maize plants or had been taken over by the informal sector setting up shop!  Small wooden structures filled green-ways (garden sheds and hen houses for sale); furniture of every kind was spread out; assortments of building materials lay stacked or piled up. We came across fully functioning garden nurseries being carefully nurtured at a busy crossroad, and another took up a long section of verge. Vendors hawked barrows of bananas (over-ripening in the heat) and others roamed the roads trying to sell a bag of fruit or vegetables.   In some streets the tarred road was a figment of imagination. Only ‘drunks drive straight’ when it came to all the potholes. Worse, an unexpected hand rose up from the middle of the road at Lea’s window – hoping for a coin or two for ‘fixing’ a pothole. Horribly prophetic, Lea gasped this was ‘an accident just waiting to happen’.

Service Stations inevitably had long queues of vehicles awaiting fuel delivery.  Some were orderly, parked up a side-street waiting patiently. Other lines protruded onto busy roads causing drivers to zig- zag along. Larger Fuel Stations flagged their rows and closed off their courts when fuel was unavailable.


This magnificent roundabout showpiece on Harare Drive, was used often as we travelled between Borrowdale and Helensvale.   We saw other roundabouts too, particularly a striking giraffe family set amongst fever trees but unable to stop and photograph.  Harare Drive was a Ring Road planned for the city, decades ago. We recall early construction sometime late 1950’s on the outskirts of Mabelreign and Marlborough before fading into oblivion. Thus, it was a surprise to come across this very new looking section of Harare Drive, moving out to Hilary.  Apparently, in 2016 a Chinese Company began constructing the Southern half with a four-lane highway enabling us to enjoy its completion. 
  
Hilary's place is on her brother's property. The beautiful home owned by her brother’s family was undergoing alterations and additions which had been scheduled for completion by Easter.  That hadn’t happened and now time had come to join Hilary. We stayed in a bedroom in the main house at the opposite end to Hil’s lovely little granny flat. The kitchen and dining room were still empty shells which we easily took in our stride – just happy to be there. 





Hilary’s menagerie was also to be enjoyed. Roaming the property was a flock of guinea fowl and their antics at evening time were a pleasure to watch as Boniface arrived to see them off to bed and closeup for the night.  Hilary had a ‘Disney-like character of a dog, Sheriketa (Shona for mischief - which she was full of as a pup) and a cat, Mr Mistoffellees. He found George’s sandals difficult to contend with over our first few days there. Was it the smell? He would brutally attack the sandals rolling over George’s feet to get a good hold on the leather and bite the soles, sometimes sinking his nails into George’s ankles in heady excitement.  Out in the back garden the two African grey parrots  Zulu and Freedom would squawk away. They were very capable of using words of direction to confuse the staff with perfect mimicry. Lea loved watching these two self-important birds strut down the garden path to their nightly abode inside the house. On occasion, they would hear Hilary’s voice - ignore instruction from Boniface and continue through the house to Hilary, out on the front veranda.

 Basking in the sun of the empty dining-room.

 Hilary and Freedom

Nights we joined up with Alister and Ash’s son Josh with his fiancée Jasmine (Jazzy). Sometimes, eldest son Mathew, wife Les and their darling little girl, Ailith (who adored her Great Aunt ‘Lily’) came from Avondale and joined us for dinner.  Living with Hilary gave us a little insight into the daily grind of problems that arise in Zimbabwe. The electricity meter in the house was faulty.  This initiated no end of time consuming and very confusing ZESA interactions requiring Hil to travel back and forth as the company had no transport/fuel to sort the problem at root.  It also took time to get about doing jobs because everywhere Hilary went – people knew her and stopped her for a hug or a word. Generations across fifty-two years of Zimbabwe Education knew Hilary and, as JG aptly quipped - “being with Hilary was like walking with a pope”!  Wonderful people always ready to help Hilary and they came to the fore, on two vital occasions. Fuel for the road to Mana and Kariba – ‘chigubus’, (Shona name for the 20 litre fuel containers describing the sound of diesel gurgling into the funnel) were collected from generous people happy to get us to our destination.  And, at the very end of our Zimbabwe Dream; George transferred all the photos from two cameras onto a memory stick via Hilary’s computer, only to erroneously delete every one of them from all 4 devices. He was utterly devastated. Again, Hilary’s contacts leapt to help, none more so than the incredible owner of Solution Centre in Borrowdale Village. He unbelievably retrieved them in the hour before our departure for the airport. 

A delightful pair of Cypriot Greek women make a regular point of catching up over a lunch with Hilary. ZESA outages had her hostess prefer lunch out without headaches – and wouldn’t take excuses from Hilary having friends from Australia! Lea and Hilary thoroughly enjoyed a seafood lunch at Oceans mindful that time was ticking on into mid-afternoon. Hilary had organised a conducted visit of the gallery and workshops of renowned Patrick Mavros, a silversmith of international fame out at Umwinzidale.   A vast Zimbabwe business spread over acres of woodland tucked away among msasa trees with beautiful views over surrounding hills. Dozens and dozens of people employed in security, cleaning and polishing the exquisite range of miniature animal sculptures/ornaments and jewellery that Patrick designs.


The Mavros Showroom a stunning display of products from gorillas, pangolins, elegant candlesticks and jewellery – no whispering monkey ear-rings in stock! A beautiful tale of an empire that simply grew from a man’s need to have an original gift for his wife!

An overpowering joy filled us! The land-rover was packed with Hilary at the wheel for this long awaited and special trip. Bronwyn Brett had arrived safely in Harare, overloaded with treats and, with the Osterberg’s. They too were rearing to get through the nerve-racking early morning congestion of Harare and rendezvous with us out on the Lomagundi road.  For the first time, thick clouds covered the sky and we wondered if rain would add a glitch out on the road.  All went according to plan. Our two vehicles set off in convoy for Chinoyi with the heavy grey skies clearing immediately we crested   the Great Dyke. The large number of trucks destined for Zambia and Democratic Republic of Congo made for slow going with the badly eroded edges of an uneven road north creating steep drop- offs, an addition hazard. Roadside worm sellers appeared at different points with humorous boards advertising ‘anaconda’ sized worms or puff adder worms and more. All hoping to catch the attention of anglers heading for Kariba.

Scene at the Toll Gate …. 2 Bondies required.

Chinoyi was an absolute tangled mass of buses and people and with all eyes fearfully watching the immediate road – there just wasn’t time to look around for familiar buildings. Karoi was worse – if that could be possible - choked with people crossing the road to a large market opposite the run down town.  We stopped in Lion’s Den to replenish biltong stocks and get stuck into Lynne’s supply of freshly made bacon sandwiches she’d prepared for the road. George took over the driving for Hilary and Lea and Bronwyn swapped car places. Far from being a relaxed passenger at the very best of times, Lea found herself battling with an inner tension as JG forged ahead. It was a relief to turn off the truck filled road at the Kariba turn off and stretch legs while waiting for the others to catch up. Memories flooded to mind as we drove every twist and turn – from Surveyor Savory’s stories in the cutting of the original road to those of Lea’s father and of course our own combined stories of travelling this winding road. We turned off onto the corrugated dirt road to Charara only to encounter a badly crumpled front of a truck that appeared to have had a head on collision with a heavily laden sand winning heavy duty truck on a sharp corner which was very sobering. This accident, we were to learn, occurred just hours earlier.  

It was exciting to arrive at Wild Heritage, a private development new to us and some kilometres beyond Charara Angling Union Headquarters. Hilary had arranged for us all to overnight in her cousin’s most beautiful thatched villa before we returned to the national road and continued northwards to Mana Pools. Necessary, because we were not only too weighty for the road to Mana. The lodge there, had no deep freeze space for our houseboat supplies.  Lipson, the welcoming housekeeper helped us unload and get all our goods safely into the numerous freezing drawers available before we settled for lunch on the veranda overlooking a very low Lake Kariba.

A divine place that we could all have happily spent a week there too…

As soon as we could – like very excited kids off to the lolly-pop shop we piled back into the Discovery, George in the boot! We were off to relive very happy moments in time… First stop Anchorage Marina to drop off batteries and filters for the houseboat.  Order fishing worms from the old Gogo and then attempt to eyeball the ‘Musankwa’, way down near the entrance of a surprising small harbour from memory.  The result of an incredibly low level of water.

  
Up to the Heights next, stopping on the way to see what was left of the hospital after a photograph appeared on fb with a dramatic headline, Kariba Hospital Burns down.  The hospital was still viable but very shabby. Nobody in reception and the maternity wing on the right appeared to have been turned into offices. While private wards to the left (where George had been treated for jaundice until diagnosed as malaria) were disused beds. 
 
 
Bronwyn was born in Kariba Hospital in the very early days of Kariba. Lynne gave birth to her first baby here in 1967.

Moving through to the next two wings we found the fire devastated Pharmacy and Casualty wing.

Gutted section of Kariba Hospital.

Next stop was Jacaranda Close.  Here we took a wonderful walk back in time… Amazingly, all six of us had lived in this road in 1967.  Number 3, is where  Bronwyn, her parents Ted and Ann Smook with little sister Tanya lived. (Bronwyn was a year 2 student in Miss Howman’s class at the time)  Next door was number 5 - George Begg, the limnologist at the Fisheries Research Institute. In number 7 was the Fisheries Research Economist John George Osterberg with his new bride Lynne. At the end of the close was number 14, the teachers - Hilary Middleton and Lea Howman lived here.  

 The effects of time were obvious and all the dogs roaming about in Jacaranda Close gave us a jolt.  

 
Quite a history to Number 7 - Looked all so different - especially to JG who began his married life here.      
                  
The little guest room (aka the passion shed) we built as newly-weds overlooking the lake still stood. Later, it became Lea’s preschool. Another pupil of Lea’s Joan Gibson married Fisheries Research Officer John Langerman and lived in Number 7, turning our little stone house into a pub ‘The Cock and Crutch’.  A fine hedge has been added at the drop off down the mountain since our days.

 

Other changes to Number 7 were on the roadside.  Our stonework extension to the kitchen  had either been demolished or plastered over to match the house. The garage had( changed sides too! 


 
The teacher’s house has disappeared - George did not ‘bomb’ it out of existence though!

A quick visit to Kariba Primary School came next. Lots of little changes to be seen;  starting with an addition to the school name – now Kariba Heights School;  car parks  for the staff outside the library / Admin block and a water tank  above the toilet block were immediately noticed.

 Fifty-two years later Bronwyn stands with her teacher in front of the KG2 classroom.

 
iNhlekabafazi (chattering hoopoes) all lined up at The Heights look out.

No other folk around other than abject vendors with their goods on display.  The Heights Hotel that became a Rhema Centre looked bedraggled and we noticed dung on the lower steps leading up from the road, indicating elephant roam at will up here.  The shops looked as if an attempt had been made to brighten the place with touristy posters, yet it all looked soulless. Inside the gloom of Elfie’s once busy Northern Stores the few shelves carried basics. The bowling greens were simply dusty and overgrown remnants of far better days. The club and cinema had been given a coat of paint and alterations made inside the cinema by enclosing the roofed area for unknown reason. Apparently, the Club complex had more recently, been bought by the University of Zimbabwe and undergoing renovation. Inside the club itself, a family appeared to be living in the men’s bar and the rest of it  just a big, clean and empty space that whispered of a bygone past. 

Kariba Country Club’s Cocktail lounge

A view overlooking the lake with tennis courts, swimming pool and the club manager’s house all in different states of degeneration.

With the highs and lows of our speedy visit on our minds as we departed for Charara in the fast fading light; it was the involuntary gasp from Lea in the back seat that alerted everyone to the dark shape in the middle of the road. Driver immediately came to a stop and three more elephants shambled down the mountainside (known as the ski -run to the army), crossed  the road in front of us  heading towards Venture Cruises. 

The tail end…

We arrived back at the Wild Heritage Villa in time for sunset where icy gins and beers went down a treat after a memory packed day. Lynne’s frozen sweet and sour port with noodles came to the fore.

Lipson had laid us a most stylish table …  we loved the bird serviettes

Other than a night guard jolting Bronwyn awake by tapping on her window to request she ensure the upstairs balcony doors be immediately closed for safety. She alerted Lynne and Lea and aside from that, we all had a beautiful night and awoke to find 12 zebras grazing on the lower lawn.  After a relaxed breakfast we repacked our Mana provisions in the vehicles, stopped at the Charara Angling Union Camp for a top-up of  diesel before taking a drive around this well looked after campground renowned for the annual Tiger Fishing Tournament coming up for its 50th anniversary. The drive back to Makuti was uneventful until travel turned towards Marangora and we encountered heavy trucks again; slowly crawling up or down the escarpment with the smell of over-heated brakes obvious. Rusted grave-yard evidence lying in shallow valleys beside the road proved slight deterrent to cowboy antics. Every time we have ever travelled this lethal escarpment road in the past, we have come across very recent accidents - this time was no different!

At Marangora National Park office all our paperwork and payments were scrutinised before we rattled our way the corrugated road to Nyakasanga gate for further scrutiny before the boom gate allowed us through.  A deep sign of contentment came from driver George as we passed through the mopane woodlands and stands of jesse. The landscape very dry and parched as go-away birds and the looping flights of hornbills added to the scene.





The floodplains, when we finally reached them were equally dry, the under-story non-existent yet provided long views through the stands of Acacia albida for which Mana is renown.

A pan on the floodplain 

Mana Pools is a much-loved place.  It was well over twenty years since George last visited with his father-in-law Roger aged 86 at the time. It had been even longer for Lea, as she preferred the safety of lodges than sleeping in the open as George and her father regularly did with their hair-raising adventures to account afterwards. As youngsters, our children Keith and Justine were just as gutsy to join their Bumpa and Dad on trips to the valley.


Do not build up a false picture of the word ‘lodge’ by today’s standards! This lodge was encased in baboon deterrent wire bars and wire netting although small monkeys were able to enter at sections upstairs, above the stonework. Therefore, in the bedroom area on the top floor we had to safeguard wash-bags, makeup and medications! When Godfrey Gordon Gustavus Gore remembered to shut the door at the top of the stairwell, we were generally safe from marauding primates.

Siesta time out on the veranda.

George, Bronwyn and Hilary placed their beds overlooking the river. Lea content to be near her husband while Lynne and JG preferred a bedroom. The beds were new and very comfortable. The mosquito nets in fine state. However, downstairs, the lounge chairs were well worn and totally unsafe. An air of total neglect was evident. The storage cupboards missing doors; kitchen hot water tap tied up in a length strip of an inner tyre making it impossible to access. When we untied it, we lost most of our hot water. The dark dingy kitchen had a large hole as a result of rot in the wooden draining board attached to the sink. Two deep freezes – one of which didn’t work and we used it as a safe storage facility only for our biltong to go mouldy. While the working freezer froze anything at the top and defrosted the frozen food at the bottom of the chest.  Bearing in mind this is a country where the wealth has been drained away by politicians and others in positions of power- we were not about to allow our deep pleasure of being together in this meaningful piece of wilderness be spoilt by the state of the lodge.   
   
 An elephant came up from the river to feed at our camp …   What courage!

 
Chisasiko Pool  

Long Pool 

Livingstone’s Eland  

Side striped Jackals

 An Impala leaps! 

  
  Finally, some buffalo. The amount of game in Mana was not as prolific as normal.     

 A young herd of elephants – thought, was the mature bulls were yet to come down to the plains.

Bronwyn enjoyed early morning walks along the Zambesi River with George.

Mana allows for bush walking with or without a guide after buying a walking permit.  George as always, was in his element walking out there alone. Other than Bronwyn, no one else had the slightest interest in being out of their comfort zone.

A classical Mana Sunset.

Sundowners and Braai…


The Zambian Escarpment in the distance and our symphonic orchestra of resident hippos always added to our evenings and ensured we were aware of our beautiful place through the night with their variety of melodic grunts and blasts (eruptions?) of noise.  We’d also hear lions grunting not too far off.  Unfortunately, we missed lions swimming across this section of the river on to the grassy island behind the hippos due to a furore occurring inside our lodge at the time. Monkeys had silently entered the top story; descended to the dining room through Godfrey Gordon’s open door. Ladies were peacefully loitering in their beds with a cup of coffee when Lea, with her perfect vantage point - spotted a vervet monkey raising his brows at her from the stairwell – was he in or was he out remained the question. Leaping up onto the little overhanging inner roof of the stairwell, immediately above Hilary’s bed gave us an answer!  Manic shrieks only sent the blighter back downstairs where we were to find a couple hiding behind curtains – rude calling cards across the floor and on the tablecloth. Empty packets and vestiges of rusks and biscuits scattered around…  


    
Nonchalance personified!

Strike two! Another of our menfolk climbed out of the Discovery, leaving his window open…. During lunch we notice the vervets bouncing about on the car. They were high on sugar having enjoyed all the liquorice all-sorts! Luckily other than check through paperwork it was a ‘grab and go’ entry. Another daily visitor was a large baboon who was content to sift through the ashes and fill his cheeks with who knows what. Obviously worthwhile, as he spent hours on the ash heap every day.


Each night a large hyena and two younger ones patrolled the length of the riverfront to check for any tasty morsels left from nightly braais. One of the youngsters behaved just like a dog – settling down in the shadows to await our dispersal.

On the last night we didn’t have a braai - we tucked into a large oxtail stew. All the many bones were placed on the BBQ table with cameras at the ready. We didn’t have to wait long before the hyena leapt up and hoovered every bone into his mouth at such speed, our faces were pictures of utter disbelief that observation had been so very short lived!

 A departing gift from Mana …

One dream time over; another on the way … We backtracked to Kariba encountering little else other than all the big trucks on the escarpment. Stopped in at Charara to refuel (diesel had gone up 50% in  the time we’d been at Mana);  Wild Heritage to collect our frozen goods and bags of citrus (forbidden in Mana) and found Lipson in a poorly way after being stung about the head by many bees the previous day. Too far to the clinic and money required … Nursing Sister Brett administered, and Lipson received the finest treatment to ease his head that he just wouldn’t have received at the clinic.

In the Marine Land Harbour, the tender was waiting to load our luggage and our supply of fishing worms were waiting.  A group of men made a line and passed our luggage swiftly. Such difficult times they were prepared to share the gratuity giving us a quick getaway.


The Lake was at its lowest in years and many popular places for houseboats inaccessible.  The fuel crisis and the high price had many houseboats in dock. The decision was taken that Musankwa would reduce the cost of fuel wherever possible. 

 
The Magnificent Musankwa blew us away – the most luxurious houseboat we had ever been on.

Ninety foot in length and twenty-five feet in width with three tenders in attendance. Six ensuite cabins – beautifully airy with large open windows or air conditioning, if required.  Captain Costa and his second in charge Never, Godfrey our excellent Chef and Simba the general deckhand made up the crew.  As with every Kariba houseboat we have been on, the staff were first class - and the men of Musankwa were faultless and gave us a most magical trip. 

All was just too good to be true! We were soon underway across the wide waters of Lake Kariba, heading towards the Sanyati Gorge which took a surprisingly short time in such a big boat.  As the houseboat nosed its way into Seiche Tower Bay where George’s Ice Station Sanyati once stood, he could barely wait to get off, thanks to a very special dispensation from the Captain. Climbing up the rocky shore he made his way round the bay to go and inspect his old site and relive his memories.

 We tied up for two nights in Hydro Bay (the seiche tower gone).

The lake level so low, it was scarcely recognisable to George. The shorelines barren which had him wonder what happened to the marginal grasses and submerged aquatic vegetation on which so much life depended.

 

Never went to collect  George  in the tender when it was time to head off up along the Matusadona coastline, west of our campsite, for our first sunset booze cruise.  As the sun set, we made offerings to appease the Zambesi River God, Nyaminyami with beer and watched a couple of elephants on the shore.  Two contrails above us provided unusual ‘cloud’ formations.  Later, roast Chickens on the upper deck ended a perfect day before we all retired to our cabins. Must mark the appearance of a ‘bomber’ or sausage ant that flew into our room and crashed about until George tossed it out. An insect we haven’t seen in a long, long time!

As soon as everyone had arisen; Never was back at the helm of the tender ready to take us up the Sanyati Gorge before a late breakfast.  Houseboats have not been allowed upriver for a good number of years due to the congestion that arose! This was a river steeped in thousands of memories.

Particularly for ‘George of the Sanyati Gorge’ as he undertook so much research work here during his Kariba years. 

The Waterfall – we climbed so often and upon which Brick Bryson froze with fear…


The “Crossroads” – were now extensive deltas of sediment literally crawling with crocs and a few hippos due to the low level of the lake. Hard to believe that years ago George used to ‘canyon’ down the feeder streams to the ‘crossroads’ by  walking up and along the steep edge and then  allowing himself to be bodily carried through the rapids. Sometimes jumping into pools that lay below small waterfalls. Back then, there weren’t anything like the number of crocodiles we were seeing today … or so George thought!


Sandy Cove, in the upper reaches of Sanyati is where George once tied up his research boat “Sampa”. The tall rock, where Lea’s Dad dropped his glasses into the river, no longer discernible. The only beach where the vundu head was boiled and we slept on; was no longer distinguishable.  As the youngest in the party, Bronwyn was charged with knowing this was the area George wished to have his ashes scattered!

Everyone was ravenous by the time we returned and eagerly tucked into Godfrey’s fine breakfast before retiring to comfortable spots to read and natter. 




 
Upper deck had a jacuzzi (Bronwyn and Lynne took chilly dips), an exercise bike; dining area with under counter bar and the spacious wheelhouse.

Lower deck boasted this double-sided lounge with broad opening to the prow catching the breezes and allowing sight of elephant or impala passing by. 


Each wonderful day took on an ambiance of its own and yet a pattern developed of eating and drinking (very circumspectly we might add), sleeping, talking or reading; fishing  or game viewing. Relaxed days flowed seamlessly.  A photographic story tells it best …



Mornings proved to be too cold for fish – it was winter after all! Late afternoon was perfect for catching bream with the odd squeaker.  In all, the anglers among us provided Chef Godfrey with a good catch for one big fishy dinner. And, enough fish for the crew to take home for a meal with their families as well as a fish each for the staff in Harare.


 Chugged quietly along the lake edges and up myriad inlets to enjoy the animals and bird life …

The lake may have been incredibly low with reports the Zimbabwe Power Station would soon be unable to create hydro power due to lack of water. Out on this huge lake, the extent of which is suitably demonstrated on the map below of southern England – it was hard to credit this huge expanse of water was in such a bad way.  The many very shallow inlets along with recently formed islands and peninsulas stood testament to this as the water steadily retreated.



 An indication of how far the water level has dropped in this inlet.


Kariba’s jacanas served as an example of a species that has speedily adapted to a new way of life due to habitat change. Without any of the thick mats of floating water-plants like Salvinia and hyacinth left on the lake; birds like  jacana (lily-trotters) normally found nesting and feeding on them  were observed living on the shoreline or on  the small rocky islands peeking out of the lake –  devoid of any such vegetation.

 


 NO! We are not heavy drinkers we were all onesies!  It was pure comradery and pleasure imbibing a G&T, a cider or a shandy together in these pieces of paradise. On occasion, we'd have a melk-tert nightcap!

 Kariba’s hippos were not as vocal as those at Mana and we found them grazing out in open every day 

 Mere promises of rain over the Matusadona

 Dead trees still standing after all these years ….


Lead tender takes us all back to the mother boat Musankwa for the last time after an idyllic week savouring Lake Kariba  and the pleasures of friendship. 


Pulling out of our final encampment at Tashinga brought about a very emotional moment for Lea and Hilary. Decades of waiting for this return had come and now was almost gone – “Put us back!” 

A last respect paid at Nyaminyami overlooking Kariba Wall before we departed for Harare.

Garfunkel’s dinner in Borrowdale brought the superb time we’d had together in the north of Zimbabwe to a close. ‘Gate-crasher’ Bronwyn had turned out to be a most welcome addition to our party.

Bronwyn flew home to Durban next day. Hilary took me over to see Jean Milne – many decades have passed since I last saw Jean and it was good to catch up. We’d left George behind as he was keen to download his two camera’s worth of photographs via Hilary’s computer onto a memory stick so that he had clear cameras for the next leg in South Africa.  Arriving home we found the old man in a state. He had somehow deleted every photo from camera, computer and memory stick.  The horror of it all struck us all.  Hilary began locating people to help retrieve the photos. Hope rose and fell with despair as empathetic people gave of their time and our last three days passed with a sick helplessness in our bellies. Monday evening brought a glimmer of hope from Paul Georgeou having found a fisheries research sign!  We departed for South Africa next morning and suggested we collect the cameras enroute for the airport giving him more time. Unbelievably he had rescued lots of photographs - some dating back to when they were new cameras! We owe this man a huge debt of gratitude – the wine hardly recompense.
 
Saturday night, a wonderfully Rhodesian style party with the Osterberg’s and Hilary’s extended family took place.  A reunion with her brothers and their wives was special and full of recollections and nonsense.   Sunday, we celebrated JG’s birthday at Dandara. 
We had come full circle  starting and ending our month there. Farewells were awful. 
      
With Jean Milne at JG’s Birthday lunch in Dandara.

We have often wondered, if we’d ever return to Kariba with Hilary. The Place, we all looked upon as a most glorious time in our lives. Hilary made it happen!  We are incredibly grateful.

However, when something so good ends one can’t help wanting a replay.



 THANK YOU HILARY – Here’s toasting a return in 2021 and to the tears and laughter we have shared over the years.