The mass of white blossom on occasional trees along the road to Young, we took to be feral cherry trees, indicated the advent of spring. We began to build high hopes at seeing the cherry capital Young, awash with blossom. It wasn’t to be. The many cherry orchards passed were simply rows of bare branches and a stay in Young held little appeal. We continued on our way to Boorowa and had the excitement of a hold up on the road - two fire engines each end of a large truck that apparently had its driver leap to safety when smoke began pouring out from his right front tyre. When we were allowed to safely pass the cab was a ruin of ash and water and all that remained of the tyre was a metal rim. We settled down in a pleasant park-like caravan site only to have two caravans come along either side and make us feel huddled up. We so dislike that! We promptly distracted ourselves with a walk through Boorowa. These rural villages are so reminiscent of country towns in Africa with their colonial shop frontages.
On the road to Crookwell we found ourselves remarking again on the state of the NSW rural roads, over-patched with such rough edges we were relieved it was traffic-less and allowed us to go gently. Further along, a Memorial Drive dedication provided a vastly improved road with ancient avenues of eucalypts taking us through the picturesque upper reaches of the Lachlan catchment. However, we noticed a surprising amount of gully erosion for an area that clearly wasn’t overgrazed along with obvious flood debris along creek and river beds. On the edge of Crookwell nestled on the top of the Great Dividing Range, we drew to a halt simply to observe a farmer hand signing instructions to his kelpie and red heeler dogs rounding up ewes and lambs to be transferred to another paddock. We laughed to see the protective charges made by ewes with really young lambs. Eventually all was in order and the farmer led the flock out of the gate and out of our sight at the top of a hill. A rural treat to behold!
The caravan park, set alongside the Crookwell River on the edge of town was our roost for the night. A neighbouring character came to check we’d settled in well and gave us a newsletter - a laminated newspaper cutting! Trevour, a ‘permanent’ in this little park, was Crookwell born in 1966 and schooled here. Being shy and different he found education hard going. Fortunately a job at the local garage taught him good mechanical skills. This led to an offer of a job from a Dubbo based show operator of dodgems and graviton rides who happened to bring in trucks for repair. Eating and sleeping rough in a demanding entertainment profession took Trevour round Australia six times before he finally called it a day, after ten years on the road. Returning to Crookwell, he took odd jobs around the district until he bought a caravan and settled here. Now he is the town’s self elected “Womble” keeping litter under control. The residents acknowledge Trevour's eye for rubbish! Obviously proud of his record, we hope Trevour will reclaim his laminated news cutting about himself!
The bright yellow wattles shrubs not only brightened the journey to Goulburn, they created a spectacular display down the median strip of the busy highway to Moss Vale. These green and gold shrubs are Australia’s National Emblem as apparently you will always find a wattle in bloom somewhere in the country! We left Goulburn early in the morning on another beaut of a day, a rare winter’s heatwave according to the weather man! We planned to unhitch Getaway in the Moss Vale caravan park and explore the Southern Highlands. Sister Shell recommended the Illawarra Fly and the prize winning Robertson Pie Shop.
George did the’ Fly’ – price too high for two, especially as we have done many tree-top walks before.
George thoroughly enjoyed going to The Edge! A 25 metre high elevated tree-top walk on the edge of an escarpment gave him his first view out over the Pacific Ocean and Lake Illawarra. He knew Lea likes photos with people in so he precariously balanced his camera on the springboard cantilevered walkway for a self shot! Wonderful vistas were available at every turn under the big blue skies, looking across green pastures filled with fat Black Angus, flocks of sheep - some guarded by alpacas or the tunnelled rainforest trees of National Parks. A late lunch had us taste Robertson pies, packed with tender steak and gravy inside crisp pastry that didn’t flake messily in all directions. “Babe” country is close to this Pie shop although we saw nothing to indicate where the film was shot. Energised, we set off for Fitzroy Falls and walked the western rim of an impressive gorge along well laid out tracks to various viewpoints overlooking Fitzroy and Twin Falls. We couldn’t have chosen a more perfect time of afternoon as the sun illuminated the rust coloured sandstone cliffs.
Fitzroy Falls descended 81metres down into a gorge containing a series of cascades within a deep valley. Comparing outlooks, Lea felt the $3.00 parking fee infinitely better value than the Fly and George readily agreed!
The next day was spent in Exeter with Lloyd and Terry Bruce. We first met them in their Borkham Hills home, close to Parramatta on Christmas Day 1994. We had got to know their daughter Sally during her visits to Zimbabwe with Leecy and John. As a school girl, Sally was often in Haigho’s theatre productions. Saxon and Sally became close friends during those Zimbabwean Christmas visits. Spelling out a proposed route to Saxon we mentioned going via Exeter only to hear Sal’s parents lived there. We specially tracked them down as back in Perth, Sally and Dan are expecting their first baby in September and we wanted to share the jubilation of forthcoming grandparenthood with Terry and Lloyd.
A most enjoyable day was had, walking over Terry and Lloyd Bruce’s magnificent property, chattering nineteen to the dozen!
Down the mountain we went and on the first of the hairpin bends on the Macquarie Pass, Lea was horrified to see the wheels of Getaway heading over a concealed rock. Visions of an unbalanced caravan twisting over shot through her head as George curtly said “What”! Too late... a thump followed as the ‘van wheels dropped down with a clunk. Whew, we’d survived! This was a nail-biting narrow road with huge trucks negotiating the route just to add to a tense situation. No wonder we don’t like creeping down or up mountains... At the bottom, we were happily sidetracked by the landscape. Mountains on one side, ocean on the other with corridors of lush green pastures in between. What certainly caught our eye were the number of coral trees bursting into bloom – we hadn’t expected to see trees indigenous to Africa. Perhaps they are a different species. Our new Australia Wide - Camps 6 displayed Berry Showgrounds as a new campground site and in setting up there, we discovered the ‘hairpin damage’. Dropping over the rock had caught a stabiliser and buckled it out of shape. While George removed it, Lea alerted our Murray River Mates, Scottish George and Rhodie Audrey of our arrival in Berry. We did not want to subject Scottish George to another bout of reversing our rig into a small space on their hillside property. The showgrounds, a stone’s throw from their home couldn’t have been more ideal. We don’t make many friends on the road as ‘rolling stones gather no moss’, yet when we do - they are treasures. Text messages have maintained our friendship and we relish that it arose from a chance meeting beside the Murray River in April 2008, led to a visit to their home a few months later and continues to endure...
By day, the sun shone with grey cumulus swirling past overhead. By night, thunderstorms of short duration! Nothing dampened our time with George and Audrey Coubrough.
We spent every minute of the weekend with George and Audrey returning to our beds in Getaway late at night. Scottish George knew the very rock we’d run aground upon on the hairpin bend as many a bus/truck apparently comes unstuck there and the two men happily fixed the stabiliser in his workshop. Sunday morning had us awake to busy showground congestions due to the monthly Market. That’s Murphy for you - A market on your very doorstep when it’s your only chance to be with friends! The close proximity of the showgrounds and village centre made for a humming main street. As we popped into the local supermarket, we recognised a familiar sound. The throaty roar of Harley Davisson’s and in no time at all, an invasion of hundreds of black jacketed low riders slowly revved their way through Berry bringing local traffic and pedestrians to a standstill. The thrill of these massive onslaughts captivated us in Washington DC, Key West, a mountain pass near Toowoomba and now, Berry.
Passing through Nowra took us into new territory and we made our way to Crookhaven Heads Tourist Park for a night. Only we stayed four- it was not only the 50% off winter special that kept us there, the setting, the walks and the sound of the sea in our ears made it a delight to be back at the briny and difficult to depart!
About to take a circular walk around Crookhaven Headland.
We drove out to Beecroft Peninsula hoping we could get through to Point Perpendicular Light-station located on dramatic cliffs. It wasn’t to be, as this land falls under the management of Defence and this week, Beecroft Weapons Range was in use. The Defence official on duty gave George a pamphlet on Abrahams Bosom Walking Track further on in Currarong. Ever since early sailing ships travelled this coastline, Captains referred to Beecroft Headland as Abrahams Bosom, an Old Testament reference to the safety and shelter to be found here during turbulent weather. Mention of a Wreck Walk interested us. We took the 3km walk to the wreck of the S.S. Merimbula, a most modern steel steamship for her time, splendidly equipped for passengers that ran aground on the rock shelf in 1928 with no loss of life though.
Fragments of the ship’s bow washed up towards shore from its original grounding spot.
The mild day was perfect for walking and we ended up doing the entire walking track of 11.5km amidst dense Banksia dominated coastal heath; watching gannets diving off shore; inspecting tiny crimson coloured insectivorous plants (sundew) growing on the edge of sodden pathways; and listening to wattle birds producing unexpected rhythmical tunes instead of the usual harsh squawk! The saturated condition of the soils resulted in large muddy puddles for us to flounder through and Lea couldn’t help commenting to the only person we came across, on his bicycle – “how hard going it must be”? Rather like Father Christmas in mufti, he was quick to reply “The force was with him, at his age of 94”! Whoa- his long white beard gave belief to the years yet he didn’t seem frail enough. He laughed at our stunned expressions and reassured us he was twenty years younger.
An expansive view from a high point on Abrahams Bosom across the Bay towards Crookhaven Heads and Culburra Beach, where we are camped.
A vantage point of the cliffs at Beecroft Heads.
What was your address on this day, a year ago? Dundee Downs Bush Resort, Northern Territory.
What was your address on this day, five years ago? Broome Police Youth Club grounds, Western Australia.
Fortunately the grey headed nomad in our 'van had his daily record of camp sites to refer to in answer to the questions posed in the latest 9 August 2011 Australian Census Night. Hard to believe five years has rolled around since the last Census.
Discovering Red Dog was showing in the Nowra cinema we certainly couldn’t resist going to see the film, as not only had we read the book, we had been to Red Dog’s memorial statue in Dampier, Western Australia. This touching film brought both tears of laughter and sadness to our eyes. Red Dog himself, was a fine actor as was the cat and in true Australian form, the cast chosen to support Red Dog were great characters themselves!
Whoops! What a special treat... a kookaburra swooped down to eyeball Lea as she was hanging out the washing. By good fortune, another caravanner captured the moment on camera and e-mailed us a copy.
The rain lashed and whipped at our ‘van all night and by morning TWO leaks were busy – the known one on the hatch dripped onto the floor and a new one, dripping from the ceiling light had soaked a section of our bedspread. These storm cells were moving northwards and we could only hope the worst was over as we travelled south. The Shoalhaven region certainly makes for a trifecta win with its close proximity of ocean and mountains woven together by National Parks to provide outstanding combinations of natural areas. Having failed to reach Point Perpendicular we were keen to view it from afar and thus, took local routes winding around Jervis Bay Marine Park fringed by Jervis Bay National Park with its mixture of black or white trunked eucalypts, to find a good view. Eventually drawn into the seaside village of Hyams Beach reputedly having the whitest sands in the world! We enjoyed the distant view across to Point Perpendicular (true to its name) before looking down at the sand... It is our belief, all beaches have a long way to go to better the white sands of Esperance beaches. But there again blue sky makes a massive difference to the colour of the ocean and it was a very dull day! George hung about with his camera, wishing the sun to come out and brighten the scene giving Lea an opportunity to chat to a friendly local who recommended other spots to visit in these idyllic surrounds, especially Green Patch in the Booderee National Park as a place to camp. We moved on to Booderee but while George was enquiring about the campground- down came the rain. Any thought of staying was out of the question. We continued round St George’s Basin hoping the rain would soon let up.
It did, as we approached the surprisingly congested Sussex Inlet, packed with residential holiday homes, a busy shopping centre and boasting many tightly confined caravan parks on relatively small blocks. This place is obviously a paradise to boating folk with its expansive waterways but not for the likes of us! We continued on our way to Lake Conjola and through Conjola National Park before finding ourselves a perfect spot at the mouth of the lake estuary, tucked behind an old forested dune with a board walk over the top and onto a sweeping beach. Eastern Greys and Swamp Wallabies slept or grazed peaceable around us; wood ducks waddled around under our caravan issuing long-drawn out nasal ‘gnows’ or staccato chattering; pelicans perched patiently for fisherman on the edge of the estuary. Out of season emptiness made Lake Conjola Entrance Holiday Haven Tourist Park, another in the chain of Shoalhaven Council Parks, perfect for us AND, George was able to whittle down the price by staying three days.
We made contact with Di Ryan’s brother and wife and they invited us to lunch the following day. We had met Anthony and Kay Wilson at Di’s 70th birthday party in Perth, earlier this year and promised that we’d call in specially to see their eyrie nest outside Milton when we explored the Shoalhaven coastline. We were not disappointed - in fact their incredible situation almost at the top of the mountain quite took our breath away and throughout our time up Little Forest the cinematic experience of a 360⁰ view constantly wowed us, as the cloud covered sun kept reappearing to illuminate different spots of the landscape on its trajectory pathway. Although far from a clear day, our imaginations were able to transform the Tasman Sea blending greyly into the horizon in our minds, as we looked towards Jervis Bay in an easterly direction just making out Perpendicular Point while the Wilson’s pinpointed the places as far as Ulladulla that we’d seek out the next day.
Enjoying a midday tipple with Tony and Kay Wilson and son Charles on the veranda before the chill factor chased us indoors of their award winning home providing superb views at every turn no matter the weather.
Fortunately, the weather held out despite grey skies interspersed with some blue on occasion and we set off in SKV to take in the coastline as far as Ulladulla. We drove slowly through the quaint historic village of Milton, under National Trust care before turning towards the coast to check out the seaside settlements with such wonderful sounding names - Narrawallee and Mollymook. We happily walked their beaches enjoying coastal views from lookouts. We were surprised to find a Rick Stein restaurant out on Bannister’s Point and a surfing competition in progress on Mollymook beach. Approaching Ulladulla we turned at North Head and discovered an excellent walking track around the headland, along which were slab wood carvings by Noel Butler providing an Aboriginal and non-Aboriginal history of the area with thought provoking political and environmental comment added. Fire and weather damage had destroyed some and Noel Butler was obviously replacing them as fast as he was able.
We found a second walking loop and happily took that finding it provided a history on the shipping and fishing industries of Ulladulla.
Further down the trail we were given new views of the beautifully sheltered harbour of Ulladulla with a rocky breakwater to protect the fleet of trawlers and leisure craft. Close to the harbour a Sunday market was bustling with folk adding to the picturesque setting. We stopped by briefly to enjoy the harbour itself and the atmosphere of the market before heading on to the southern headland of Ulladulla harbour- Warden Head, with its operational lighthouse and uninterrupted views of the coast, ideal for dolphins and whale watching. We certainly have poor timing when it comes to whale watching – always just missing the season.
We completed the day with a drive up the mountain to Pointers Gap Lookout. Behind, in the west, lay Morton National Park – a park stretching from the Fitzroy Falls and Kangaroo Valley in the north down to the Budawang wilderness area in the south, renowned for its stunning sandstone features. Just before rising over the escarpment we had looked up at sheer sandstone cliffs that appeared to have been sliced for the access road- of course they hadn’t! Standing on the finely made platform some 493 metres above sea level, we once again looked down upon rich farming land dominated by undulating dairy pastures and the amazing, heavily wooded, coastline. Slightly south of the lookout we could just see the Wilson’s property. They too have a sandstone escarpment feature as a backdrop to their home. Just into Morton National Park we came to Porters Creek Dam, a water reservoir for Shoalhaven. Staring across the mountainous terrain we eagerly looked for the well known landmarks of Pigeon House Mountain, aptly named by Captain Cook in his log in 1770 and the Castle, before the silence was broken by two trail bikers.
Ready to discover something new, we hooked up next day and motored down the Princes Highway just as far as Termeil before turning off to another section of the Shoalhaven coast that came highly recommended by relatives and friends. Slowly we trawled through Bawley Point and Kioloa towards Pretty Beach where we had decided to stay as this National Park has powered sites. A missed turn found us at Merry Beach and we were so taken with the setting we decided to stay. Another perfect, peaceful and virtually private site gave us an uninterrupted view of the beach with thundering waves rolling up the rocky shelves on either side of the pretty cove. As in Conjola, more Eastern Grey kangaroos and wood ducks kept us company and we loved watching them roam the beach scratching their bellies with much the same attitude as men do with their paunches.
The view from our door!
Rainbow lorikeets made regular stops on our roof top adding their ‘musical’ screeches to the steady roar of the waves. Bliss oh bliss! By lunch time, the sun appeared and stayed, drying out any moisture. George shot up onto the roof with his sealant gun and checked every joint and seal. Although all appeared perfect, he resealed as much as he could with his tube of sealant, carefully using his fingers to ensure he reached any possible hairline fracture. Now we await the arrival of the next front, crossing the far west at present, to see if we have rid ourselves of seeping leaks!
Bordering this caravan park is Murramarang National Park and as a magnificent day dawned George was quick to chivvy his wife out of bed and get walking to Pretty Beach.
Snapper Point, the southern headland to our cove from the edge of which, we were given fine views of the rugged coastline fringing the National Park.
Through bangalay sand forests, we traced our way over the hilltops through coastal heath land and on down into Pretty Beach – another of the many isolated inlets along the coast with rocky platforms and exposed headlands, all beautifully wild as surf thumps against the rocks spraying upwards. Pretty Beach campground nestled within the shadow of old dunes covered in eucalypt forest and, much as we’d like to camp here, we decided our sunny and open aspect at Merry Beach suited us well and was better value. Despite no mobile or internet signal along here we stayed on, happy to mark another wedding anniversary in gorgeous surrounds with Lea’s interpretation of slow roasted Greek lamb. Normally we eat our main meal at night but on returning from a hike to Kioloa Beach the predicted weather front loomed ominously. Rather than have the smell of cooking pervade the caravan we cooked outside and ate our feast mid-afternoon before watching a John Williamson video as the rain came down. The leaks persisted and towels were placed to soak up the water. We moved on, and the rain stayed with us.
SKV dragged us up the Mount Agony road through to North Durras where three caravan parks soon proved to be misnomers... They are now Cabin Parks with the inevitable tightly spaced squatter vans that spell convivial annual holiday to some. If there is an odd space for a caravan, it’s far from suitable or pleasant. Depot Beach was empty and didn’t entice us in being tucked well back in a cold and damp looking forest – we retraced our way back to Princes Highway and tried South Durras on the other side of Durras Lake. A very fancy looking Murramarang Resort proved the best bet out of the three facilities in the area and we spent two nights there thoroughly enjoying the very friendly rainbow lorikeets that landed on us as soon as we stepped out the door. Their excited twittering soon attracted kookaburras, king parrots, butcher birds, wattle birds, crested pigeons and rarely seen catbirds. Although we have heard that catbird numbers have expanded to the extent they are a pest amongst fruit growers.
Two rainbow lorikeets joined us for breakfast.
We are able to confirm kangaroos are commonplace along the Shoalhaven Coast! A good sized mob roamed this vacant caravan park attracting attention from tourists staying in the gorgeous villas. Signs advising these were wild animals that should not be fed were ignored. Obviously all too often, as the roos knew instinctively that bread was to be had and we observed adults and children alike, tussling with large marsupials keen to get to the food first while camera clicked- fortunately with no bad consequences on these occasions.
The rain kept coming and soggy towels accumulated. We tried to peer above the ceiling board by unscrewing the inner hatch covering plate and decided it was best to leave it off as the wooden beam on one side was pretty moist. We removed the light covering and discarded a pool of water within, gaining no insight into what was occurring above the ceiling board. Changing the angle of the caravan only produced run off in new places. We have completed the Shoalhaven Coast at Durras and intended returning inland at Batemans Bay – perhaps the other side of the mountain would be drier? We drove into the town of Batemans Bay for fresh supplies in readiness for the ride up the Great Divide any time. On our return we looked at the edge of the caravan hatch in despair. It was beginning to peel away. With the help of Yellow Pages, George checked out the localities of caravan repairers – they are few and far between. Like others we have spoken to, most too busy to help and all say tracking a leak is inherently difficult. Besides it’s Friday, WAIT! Craig Wells, Eurobodalla Caravan Services in Moruya changed the pattern. He would be working flat out all weekend in the workshop and he was prepared to cast his eye over ‘Getaway’ and see if he could spot anything. Saturday morning we made our way north of Batemans Bay in rain bucketing down. Although hard at work, Craig was quick to grab a ladder and give us an hour of his time in spite of the drizzle. After going over the roof, inside and out, a number of possibilities existed. The new air-conditioner had not been drawn down tight enough and a perished boot on the TV antenna required sealing. While he sorted these out for us, he taught George how to clean the air-conditioner. We settled into Moruya’s River Breeze Caravan Park – given a beautiful site on the river’s edge with coastal flats stretching away to the mountains on our immediate right. Here, cattle roamed munching and moo-ing, while we waited to see if there was any improvement within our caravan as bouts of heavy rain passed over. No further drips from the light and air conditioner but the leading edge of the front hatch continues to be a primary point of concern.
Best we head for drier places. Our respite from severe cold over, we pulled slowly and steadily up the Kings Highway and the Great Divide stopping at Warri Camping Reserve for old time sake and a cuppa. In 2008, we’d spent a few days camped here beside the Shoalhaven River – George had painted the bridge! He was very tempted to stay but Canberra’s low temperatures would surely affect us here. Lea’s maternal cousin, Tessa had warned of a considerable convoy of truckies scheduled to descend and disrupt Canberra in a show of no confidence in the Government. Although Lea quite fancied holding up the protesters, we saw no sign of anything. Pulling into Bungendore Showgrounds we could see two trucks and thought we’d be sleeping with ‘the opponents’ that night. NO, only showground refrigeration trucks! Once we were all set up we discovered no ABC channel. Monday night without ABC is disastrous for us as it’s the only night we have to watch TV! We packed up and left, joining the Federal Highway out of Canberra with a greater sense of anticipation at coming across demonstrators as they departed the Capital. The squeakiest wheels always make the most noise and for the weeks of hyperbole - no doubt generated by the worst of the radio shock jocks, Alan Jones – All turned out to be a damp squib, to the cost of the tax payer and the inconvenience of the Canberra folk. Still, it’s a democratic right and we felt heartened the numbers just were not there, despite the ridiculous excuses given by Jones.
We were almost back where we started in the Upper Lachlan and George was making strange noises of delight at the extent of intact wetland terrain, he presumed to be the headwaters of the Murrumbidgee River. All the little places we had listed to visit on our return from the coast tumbled pass as they either had no caravan park or being a Monday everything was closed – we managed to see the strange ‘Dreamers Gate’ in Collector though. The free caravan park in Gunning was overcrowded forcing us on to Yass. Even this caravan park was packed by nightfall, cheek by jowl much to George’s distaste. He could barely wait for morning to be up and away. We found travelling along this section of the Hume Highway an absolute pleasure, we cannot think of a nicer road as we prepared to explore the Riverina... an area extending from the south west slopes of the Great Dividing Range to the outback with the magnificent Murrumbidgee River meandering through its heartland until it reaches the Murray River. Claimed as the ‘food bowl of Australia’ the Riverina is said to be the most productive and diverse agricultural region in the country.
Heated controversy has reigned over the past many years relating to the management of the entire catchment (Murray Darling Basin), with regard to water rights and extraction of water for irrigation purposes in particular. Compounded further by the severity of the most recent drought, Australia’s largest river system from source to sea has been on the point of collapse. However, with the climatic cycle having swung back into a wet phase during the past two years, the demise of a system has been given a temporary reprieve. We have heard much, now we were looking forward to seeing much. The Burrinjuck Waters sign caught our attention and we promptly took the turn off. The road steadily dropped, and in next to no time we regretted our impulse as a very narrow, winding road took us down a mountain with no place to turn before 31kms clicked over. When a chance arose we took it, Lea’s heart in her mouth. NO visit to Burrinjuck dam for us, despite being built in 1906 to store water as part of the large scale Murrumbidgee Irrigation Scheme, first pinpointed back in 1891. The Riverina is a Fruit Fly Exclusion Zone including Greater Sunraysia as a Pest Free area. Lea was very mindful of the fruit, vegetables and rice we had on board. Although unsure where Quarantine began, her percentage of Scottish blood and her law abiding nature ensured we were attempting to finish off everything in good time.
An Australian icon, spoken about so often is the Dog on a Tuckerbox in Gundagai. When Lea was transcribing her father’s 1991 diary in 2008, he had posed the question ‘what’s the problem about a dog on a tuckerbox?’ We were keen to find out on his behalf and made for Gundagai. Only we discovered the Dog isn’t actually in Gundagai; he sits upon a tuckerbox on the top of a Pioneers Memorial, to be found on the northbound side of the Hume Highway at Five Mile, as this was the known camping site of early teamsters. Beneath the Pioneer Monument reads:
Earth’s self upholds this monument
To conquerors who won her when
Wooing was dangerous and now
Are gathered unto her again.
Which didn’t help us understand the business about a dog on a tuckerbox until we entered the kiosk and bought a little booklet on The True story of Gundagai’s Dog on a Tuckerbox and discovered the origins are clouded in uncertainty and controversy like much of folklore. Frank Rusconi’s Memorial to Pioneers in the form of a dog on a tuckerbox arises from the period when pioneers travelled in bullock wagons between Melbourne and Sydney, with a dog in tow as guardian companion. An incident occurred arriving at this chief ‘port of call’- a pioneer had a particularly bad day with his bullocks only to have it compounded by finding his dog sitting in his tuckerbox! Others saw humour in his blighted day, which naturally led to laughter and joking around the campfire. Later, it was immortalised in poetry and song, capturing the imagination of a country and becoming history. Another Interesting tale revolves around 1981 students from Canberra Teachers College arousing a nationwide hue and cry when they stole The Dog during their annual ‘Stone Day’ scavenger hunt – a yearly prankster day marking the laying of the College foundation stone. All’s well that ends well, Dog was returned unharmed.
A dog guards his master’s tuckerbox, securely bolted to his spot!
“We’ve all got our little troubles,
In life’s hard stony way,
Some strike them in a motor car,
And others in a dray.
But when your dog and bullocks strike,
It ain’t no apple pie’
And the dog sits on the tuckerbox
Nine miles from Gundagai.” -
This verse taken from Jack Moses’ poem touched a chord within us too! We saluted all Pioneers of the past and made for Gundagai.
Soon after ‘Dog’, we caught our first sighting of the Murrumbidgee snaking its way to Gundagai. On arrival at the budget caravan park which wasn’t so (our error, going by Camps 3 instead of 6) we found ourselves beautifully situated on the flood plains right beside the river with the historic and extensive wooden railway bridge spanning the plains almost above us. No wonder Sulphur crested Cockatoos remonstrated raucously from atop the wooden beams at the foolishness of humans! The village of Gundagai was originally gazetted here in 1840 despite repeated warnings from the Aborigine people that these low lying alluvial flats were subjected to large floods. We had barely started walking across the neighbouring golf course into town than we spotted a cairn stating this to be the site of the original hotel swept away in the Great Flood of 1852 taking the wife and four children of the hotelier. Gundagai here was virtually wiped out and rebuilt on the safer, northern slopes. Crossing the creek bordering the town we stopped to read the Flood Indicator recording the flood history of the past 150 years- scary stuff. Our walk stalled several times reading historical information boards dotted down the main street. Another gang of wild, colonial boys causing mayhem due to the discovery of gold came to light- Captain Moonlite this time. A local stopped to say if we were interested in Moonlite, we’d enjoy a trip to the gaol.
The Visitor Information Centre sent us on our way, armed with padlock master key and self guided audio-aid to visit the gaol. We’d gained much out of this method of self guiding while visiting the Palace of the Popes in Avignon and thought we we’d be dab hands! Not so, George was just about to return for more instruction when we finally settled on the correct button (Aging brain/technology syndrome)! In the clanging emptiness, amongst wall etchings of criminals, the history of each cell followed... Despite coming from a wealthy, well educated family, Andrew George Scott aka Captain Moonlite formed a gang of five bushrangers to roam the Wagga Wagga area, for no good purpose. A hold up in Wantabadgery followed by a siege led to the death of two gang members and a policeman was shot. Moonlite was brought to Gundagai, held in the gaol until he faced trial in the Courthouse. For his crimes he was hanged in Sydney and buried there in an unmarked grave despite his final wishes of a burial alongside his gang members in Gundagai. Claiming Bushrangers must be good business! In 1995, two locals sought to bring Captain Moonlite back to Gundagai. 115 years later, his wish was carried out and he lies near his friends in Gundagai cemetery.
Locked up in the Exercise yard created an amusing diversion! Later however, we experienced a measure of panic when we inadvertently locked ourselves out in another section, fortunately we didn’t have to scale walls or yell for help.
On returning the key, we examined, for the price of $3.00, the incredible marble masterpiece on permanent display in the Visitor Information Centre by the famous monumental mason, Frank Rusconi. Born in Araluen, NSW (that place was almost our undoing in 2008, when our brakes overheated on the steep road in) Frank was apprenticed to the Marble trade in Italy at the age of 15. On his return to Australian in 1901 he pioneered the marble industry of NSW, opening a quarry outside Orange. To display the diversity and beauty of NSW marble, he built a cathedral, in miniature out of 20,948 individual pieces of marble. Every piece cut, turned and polished by hand over 28 years.
This was a pioneering country town, full of interest and natural beauty. We’d easily have lingered longer but for Park fees being over our budget. Walking home across Yarri Park, named for one of the Aboriginal men whose heroic actions during the 1852 floods saved many lives, we once again found ourselves admiring the spectacular latticework of wooden trusses to the timber viaducts that dominate the Murrumbidgee flats, early engineering solutions to crossing a major flood plain by road and rail, both surviving floods. On departing Gundagai, we were to gasp at the extent of the southbound concrete Sheahan Bridges of the Hume Highway. Worth comment- that morning we awoke cold, even our breath was steaming and the caravan park was thickly enveloped in mist, spoiling the run of perfect days we’d had on this side of the mountain, thus far. However, the moment we rose up the gentle incline into town a magnificent bright blue day awaited us, the rapidity of the transition was quite remarkable. Spring is close, judging by the greening landscape.
Wagga Wagga is the regional city on the banks of the Murrumbidgee and as we were keen to have the hatch leak found, most of the day was spent hunting down help. When the first caravan service centre gave us a two week wait we moved on to another place where, most coincidentally the very fellow the Moruya man had recommended turned out to be working. Another day’s wait before he could schedule us in; we were more than happy with that, taking up two nights residence in a small, quiet park just out of town. Seemingly quiet by day but our nights were badly disturbed by the magnified rumblings and accelerations or braking practises of numerous road trains. Our day in the city was spent in Wagga’s cultural precinct - the hours easily chewed up wandering in the attractively designed purpose built ‘splinter of glass’ building to house Australia’s largest collection of artistic glass. Glass pieces displaying an amazing variety of techniques and styles perfected over the years by master craft-men/women, we had not seen the like of; the historic Council Chambers, turned Riverina Museum, provided a current exhibition from the Powerhouse Museum International Photo Competition for 2011 – the title ‘Trainspotting’ enticed us in and we were not to be disappointed by the incredible array of photographs capturing the evocative images of trains in a variety of categories encompassing steam, diesel, electric and trams, railway infrastructure, train environments and people in trains and stations - particularly those crowded carriages of Bangladesh. Simple story photos that spoke volumes! While at the Art Gallery we found they specialised in prints and found ourselves drawn into an exhibition, The Long Paddock, by G.W. Bot who for many years has been recording the landscape in many artistic forms through relief prints, linocuts, drawings, paintings and sculptures of this well known touring route from Wilcannia to Echuca (once the coach highway for Cobb & Co.). We covered a short distance of The Long Paddock on leaving Wilcannia before turning off towards Cobar back in May and we will come across it again when we reach Hay on the Murrumbidgee River. Another section within the Gallery, grabbed Lea’s interest – a collaborative exhibition by visual artists Margaret Woodward and Justy Phillips entitled Greetings from Aggaw Aggaw – a title which didn’t give much away resulted in George merely glancing in to see a cluster of brightly coloured stools, he presumed were for children and moved on... Lea took a closer look and discovered Australian tourist souvenirs turned into a fascinating art form relating to place, national identity and tourist experience - KITSCH transformed! Each stool had been covered in a souvenir tea towel as were the seats of chairs, suspended in a row along a wall. What a clever utilitarian idea. What a clever conversation piece before you sit down to a cuppa around the kitchen table. Linen tea-cloths are word maps that express memories in so many ways too.
Us eager beavers were outside Lanhams well before their doors opened next morning waiting for the leak search to begin. Most of the staff were away at a Camping Expo so it took time for Dave to get round to us. Methodically he began checking our roof top beginning with the removal of a solar panel to reach the junction box beneath as he worked he resealed everything. After two hours of fine combing work, Dave found what he considered to be the point of entry near the front hatch – time will tell. All done, we left for Junee NE of Wagga some 40kms away and arrived in a caravan park in time for a late lunch. Within easy walking distance was an old flour mill that had fairly recently been turned into a much hyped ‘Junee Licorice and Chocolate Factory – no country town fudge shop’. We arrived just in time for the last tour of the day and paid our $4.00 each for (in their words) a “very educational and thoroughly addictive tour. The audio visual system was on the blink necessitating a verbal account from our guide which wasn’t made easier as the glass fronted liquorice making machinery had been shut down and thoroughly cleaned by the time she explained its workings. The chocolate coating copper vats were still, although workers were moving around on unseen business, while the chocolate coating method was described – Interesting to a degree, we considered it a rip off to take ‘tour’ money without the factory being fully operational. Our short tour ended with a skittle game- and by the time we'd looked around the factory levels – there were no, if any samples to be had! Addictive? Hardly so!
Moving on next day through the Coolamon Shire of rolling hills covered in bright yellow Canola fields, silos here, there and everywhere in differing shapes and sizes, sheep in paddocks of bright green or bushland provided picturesque vistas of farming country as we passed through the settlement towns of Marrar, Coolamon, Ganmain, Matong and Grong Grong the terrain became steadily plain-like as we continued on our way to Narrandera on the Murrumbidgee. NO FRUIT NO VEG NO FINE signs warned we’d reached the Fruit Fly Exclusion Zone with disposal bins just ahead- we gobbled down our last two naartjies (mandarins). Lea was relieved to have cooked up all the tomatoes the previous evening despite George saying the fruit fly zone was closer to Griffith! On the outskirts of Narrandera we turned off to Lake Talbot Aquatic Park and the caravan park overlooking it.
Lake Talbot- artificially created for recreational purposes is a silt laden, narrow impoundment on the northern margin of Murrumbidgee’s flood plain.
The virtually empty caravan park steadily filled up around 4.pm and all were gone by the time we arose from our Sunday lie-in. The same occurred the following evening. There are certainly bigger numbers out on the Riverina roads now that spring is on the doorstep. A two hour walk along the levee took us past the swimming pool complex at one end of the lake and we met up with a lonely billy goat responsible for keeping the lawns trimmed over winter. After giving him a good scratch through the security fence he chose to try and butt us numerous times – perhaps he felt aggrieved he couldn’t follow us any further! On the opposite side of the lake lay the Narrandera Common – a large hygophilous forest full of bird life, with what we thought could be abandoned fish or yabby ponds scooped out of the forest floor in one area. The pathways within, were a little too muddy for our liking.
We stayed on the levee which formed a section of the Bundidgerry walking track, delighting in red river gums, weeping willows breaking into new leaf and wild flowers coming into bloom, particularly deep scented wild freesias.
A short distance, northwards we found ourselves travelling through citrus orchards, canola fields and vineyards before arriving in Yanco, the starting point in the development of Murrumbidgee Irrigation – after irrigating pioneer, Sir Samuel McCaughey first demonstrated it on his property here. His magnificent sandstone mansion has been incorporated into Yanco Agricultural High School. Not much further on was Leeton, where we unhitched in a quiet little caravan park and set off to explore Australia’s 62nd Ramsar Wetland, Fivebough Swamp designated under the convention in October 2002. The five kilometres of walkways took us through thick bulrushes shedding fluffy seeds; wafting across our pathway they collected on anything they could adhere too, most conspicuously on every skeletal stick and shrub around. George recalled Cape Town City Council being inundated with complaints from residential areas adjacent to wetlands as bulrush seed drifted into their homes, coating everything, particularly curtains. Jittery moments and unseen alarm played bird against man with resultant fluttering, splashing and peculiar clamours. On reaching the very rudimentary graffiti covered bird hide without a vestige of information, George had had enough, deeply disappointed that these so called international wetlands of importance are not maintained to Ramsar standards.
We continued on, travelling through flat lands divided into a mosaic of fields, ditches of flowing water, sluices, Grain Storage Depots and the odd in-field bank of solar panels, to reach Gogeldrie Weir, a facility where irrigation water is diverted from the Murrumbidgee River to the local farmers. The rice industry is intrinsically linked to Leeton and we couldn’t understand why we were not seeing any water filled paddy fields and decided to visit the Leeton SunRice Visitor Centre and attend the 2.45 presentation for further insight. As we arrived very early, hostess Lyn, promptly put on a couple of DVD’s that gave us good background information on the impressively efficient rice production, 80% exported with Japan taking as much as can be supplied, since their Tsunami. We hadn’t seen paddy fields because planting only begins late October into November with aeroplanes seeding newly flooded fields – the empty fields we’d seen! Right on scheduled time we were joined by a party of youngsters from a Circus school touring the Riverina. We were all offered a delicious caramel rice cake to chomp on (nothing like the dreadful things our allergy ridden Talya and Bion used to munch as toddlers) as we watched a short ‘Paddy to Plate’ video presentation, showing how rice is milled, packed and marketed to consumers in 60 countries worldwide. SunRice is an international brand and a major contributor to the Australian economy wholly owned by the rice growers. At the request of the school children, we were shown their world wide adverts and told how they were made - very clever, we’d not see them before. Lyn had cooked up the latest SunRice product ‘Clever Rice’ and all were given a generous sample tasting with soy sauce- Worth trying! Their products at factory prices were on sale – and on departure, we were given a ‘Tumble’ (puffed rice and corn flakes tumbled in chocolate) - a couple were even added to the packet containing the wild rice mixture we’d bought. No charge for this extremely revealing and enjoyable couple of hours.
As we wandered on towards Griffith we began to realise the full extent of Riverina Citrus and its long history dating back to 1917 – we’d had no idea of its magnitude. Orange groves stretching forever, equated to approximately 8,500 hectares. Valencias available almost year round here while navals are ever increasing. We had passed branded juice and cordial factories in Leeton and in time, discovered almost 65% of the regions Valencia crop is used to make fresh juice. Not to be outdone in the landscape spread, were vineyards and only as we drew into Griffith did we recognise De Bortoli – and comprehend that we had arrived in the home of our winter tipple – Old Tawny Port! We had a bit of a battle trying to find the caravan park. Once found, George wasn’t taken by its situation and we reluctantly moved on down Kidman Highway to Darlington Point on the ‘Bidgee. Catania Fruit Salad Farm sign caught Lea’s eye, she had seen an advert in the Leeton brochure but hadn’t know where Hanwood was, we took the turning and followed signage with misgiving rising once we were on a dirt road – how were we going to turn! The homestead looked impossible and we moved on, turning within a more accessible small holding! Seconds later Joe Maugeri came out of ‘Catania’ – he’d obviously seen us nervously looking down his narrow driveway. Of Italian stock his hospitality was true to form – actually Griffith appeared to be an early stronghold for Italian migrants in general. We were far too early for the daily guided tour of the farm we simply wanted to replenish our empty fridge from their fruit shop. Instead Joe took us into his home, where he promptly showed us a framed portion of mud wall, his house had been built of. Fifty years he had lived here and cluttered from every cranny and open drawer were things! From price tags we soon appreciated their house had been overrun by bits and bobs that naturally led to their eviction and a Gift Shop of surprising array. Joe gained much enjoyment encouraging us to pick up a chicken, followed by a goose that broke into musical noise. Once in the kitchen, we were plied with samples of homemade jams, mustards, olives and dried fruits while politely turning down his traditional Sicilian wine! On departure, he recommended places around Griffith to visit and gave us a bag of fallen oranges and naartjies he’d been clearing up before our arrival. So much for expectations we’d uncovered more!
McWilliam’s Hanwood Estate, another top Port maker was passed as we continued on our way to Darlington Point – all these vineyards must specialise in fortified and dessert wines! Darlington Point was a pretty little settlement with wide bricked pavements and ornamental pear trees in full flower across the ‘Bidgee from our powered caravan park on the river’s edge. Attached to the many huge and ancient River Gums in the park were laminated signs warning of falling limbs! It was either an open and warmly sunlit area behind the cabins or take the chance under the shady gums next to the river and shiver, especially in the early morning temperatures still between 1⁰ and 3⁰. We chose to watch the muddy waters glide past and immersed in Riverina landscape of unbelievable agricultural productivity we happily saw out August, either relaxing, completing the blog, walking up and down-stream gleaning something of the history of Darlington Point from the cemetery in one direction or the old wharf pylons from the paddle steamer era in the other.
George couldn't resist celebrating the official end of winter cooking a flat chook on his little barbie.
This is no Morning Glory, IT is one of the horrifying summer dust clouds that developed during the 2005 drought as it rolled lazily across the Riverina - an awesome reminder this most productive and diverse farming area was created out of a barren, desolate countryside.
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