Tramping tales for February 2014

 

   The setting sun at Frank Potts Reserve cast beautiful lights upon the River Red Gums.

We found it hard to leave lovely Frank Potts Reserve but the River Red Gums just weren’t enough to keep us cool once the temperature climbed into the 40’s. We took off for very picturesque Mt Barker with its many, many heritage Oak trees lining the streets.  A cinema in town had us book into the Caravan Park for a week! A boundary site under a forest of trees with the unexpected pleasure of bleating sheep on the other side of the green barricade, added a rural touch to our liking.  An easy walk along the river into town and the cinema made it all the more perfect. As soon as we had settled we dashed out to find the cinema and escaped the worst of the midday heat seeing ‘The Book Thief’. Lea wallowed in delight and since her birthday had been ‘on hold’ we trotted up early next morning and saw ‘Philomena’. Before the week was out we’d enjoyed a delicious glut of films as we added The Railway Man and Twelve Years a Slave. All the films were tear-jerking.  Aquarian Lea, with strong humanitarian ties used the tissues...

The uniquely German town of Hahndorf we’d so enjoyed visiting with the Skehels in 2006, was a definite must being so close to Mt Barker.   Hahndorf is Australia’s oldest German settlement built by a close knit group of Prussian settlers in 1839 and it is an absolute delight to wander the streets – aligned with ancient old elm and plane trees. We arrived before many of the shops had even opened and made our way to the Hahndorf Academy   to see its regional heritage centre and art gallery. We were particularly interested in Sir Hans Heysen, having discovered him (one of Australia’s most famous artist’s) when we stumbled upon a wattle and daub hut he’d used as a base in the Central Flinders. We had followed his art trail to another of his refuges up in the Finders Range in 2007 and realised why this man was renowned for his gum trees and the Australian light that he captured so perfectly.   Immigrating to Australia as a young child he had grown up in Hahndorf within a very poor family unable to provide the finances required for art lessons despite his amazing aptitude. Teachers made sure it was nurtured from the age of 14. His artistic ability was to see him through life with relative ease. His home, ‘The Cedars’ has been carefully preserved on the edge of Hahndorf by his children and in turn, grandchildren. In the Academy we discovered his 4^th daughter was also an artist. Before we could learn more we dashed off to find The Cedars as we heard there was a tour of the residence at 11 a.m.   We spent a most worthwhile few hours and learnt so much about Hans Heysen and his family of 8 children (5 girls and then 3 boys). Only Nora inherited her father’s artistic genes and not only became the first woman, but the youngest ever to win The Archibald in 1938 with her portrait of a socialite she hadn’t taken to!  And, she was the first woman war artist to be appointed during World War Two.  However, over the next four decades her work was overlooked and it wasn’t until 2002, approaching 92 that Nora was finally given recognition and regained the status of an Australian woman artist of historical significance. In her studio provided by her parents on the property, we thoroughly enjoyed a time frame of her work spanning 80 years. Plus Nora’s palette well used over seventy years, given to her when a very young girl by Dame Nellie Melba. It was fascinating to discover that although Hans was a shy and rather withdrawn man who didn’t enjoy going out publically at all, many famous people were to be entertained in his home such as Dame Nellie the singer and Anna Pavlova the ballet dancer who, I might add fell for a particular painting Hans had given his wife as a present. Throughout dinner, Anna tried to persuade him to part with it; even gave Hans a blank cheque. He was not to be moved,  offered to paint something similar and according to history when it had been completed - she refused saying ‘If she couldn’t have what she wanted, she  preferred to have nothing’!  After our guided tour through the ‘hallowed’ sanctuaries of Nora and her father’s studios and an insight into their lifelong home that grew from a small Victorian house into a rambling home with Germanic influences to fit his growing family.  We couldn’t help feel privileged and enriched by our visit and happily took a gentle wander through the Heysen’s garden and his extensive 150ha property gaining a new understanding of well known paintings – as we followed the winding Artist’s Walk to points, where this great man had drawn inspiration. Some of his beloved gumtrees are long gone but the essence of place exists and it must be said his work encompassed far more than gum trees. Any subject matter using a variety of medium was always beautifully executed.

“Give me Art that comes from the world that surrounds us, the beauty of which we can see and absorb – a clean beauty that makes us the happier for our experience” – Hans Heysen.

Heysen’s Studio came from prize money and is the only purpose built studio in the country. Attuned to Nature, he spent a great deal of time outdoors and we delighted in seeing his home-build, early pop-top caravan! 

We were distracted somewhat by sculptures being installed in readiness for an annual event mid February. John Nelson’s subject entitled ‘The Ultimate recycle cycle’ caught our eye because two dung beetles rolled a globe of the world.  ‘Ghost Dingoes’ by Clancy Warner also drew us up for a closer look as they suited their positioning in the dry landscape so beautifully. Probably quite unwittingly, close to the yellowed grasses the ghost dingoes slunk through were dried out bushes that naturally matched the barbed wire, used to create the dingoes. Unfortunately there was no name or subject on the marker stick that really had us pause – a gash in the earth being stitched up giving rise to many connotations... The reason we knew of the upcoming Sculpture Expo resulted from a bright orange plastic road barrier which ludicrously stuck out like a sore thumb in the bush Hans Heysen’s studio overlooked. Lea asked George if he had a photo of that, “No ways “, he retorted!  However, we’d be doing the sculpture disfavour, as there was far more to it than met the distant eye. The intricacies within it were amazing but sadly, in the early stage of the Artist walk we hadn’t picked up on marker sticks pertaining to each site – only a few had been inscribed down the side with Sculptor’s name and subject.

 

Hot, hungry and thirsty we returned to Hahndorf for a late lunch. Visits to Germany have left us with an abiding pleasure in German cuisine and in keeping with Hahndorf found a typical German cafe for bratwurst and sour kraut.  Later, we stopped by a German bakery for a Bee-sting.  Although tasty it didn’t come up to the superb standard of Durban’s Belgica Hotel’s version or the slice we had up in the Konigstein Fortress overlooking the Elbe River and Saxon Switzerland.  YUM, sweet memories...

Wondering whether to take the  coastal route west through Adelaide, we decided to take a day’s run around the outskirts of Adelaide, exploring its length of seafront and familiarising ourselves with caravan parks, particularly as we didn’t want to get want to get snared up in the Adelaide Hills or city centre with a caravan.  From the steep drive down the northern side of the city through to the tip of the Outer Harbour we began an inspection of all the different beaches overlooking the Gulf of St Vincent with amazingly uniform characteristics – seemingly safe, shallow near shore waters and patches of sea grasses provided a darkened pattern within the sea green waters – many old folk chatted as they gently bobbed out in the water – a relaxed way of keeping cool with barely a wave to be seen.  Many jetties added to the beach scene. While enjoying a good walk along the length of West Beach we noticed pipes emerged out of the primary dune. Not drains! They formed part of an unusual sand replenishment solution.

Our week up, we edged round the Adelaide Hills attempting to add new routes to those previously travelled and found ourselves coming across delightful little villages: Woodside, Lobethal, Gumeracha and Birdwood, all busy with Sunday’s passing trade for coffee.  The motor bike fraternity was out in force on the road and we spotted a huge gathering at an obviously favourite gathering place for late breakfast - Amber Lights cafe.  A huge Rocking Horse at Gumeracha reminded us of Troy’s wooden horse in Turkey. We watched a peacock put his life in peril crossing the busy road here, too. Perth Hills – Adelaide Hills – similar but different yet equally enjoyable for getting out and about, over weekends. We settled in Mt Pleasant. According to our ‘bible’ we’d reached Talunga Park Caravan Park yet the gateway was signed Mt Pleasant Showgrounds – looked far more like a very spacious sportsground with hundreds of wood ducks feeding on the oval under sprinklers. We found a large oak tree to park under and stayed three days. In March the whole area  becomes the showground, so we learnt.

On the evening walk alongside the oval – our eyes were drawn to the carved animals in the children’s playground and a picnic area. We popped across for closer inspection as George was wondering about the carved snakes. Had they been joined to go around the tree or carved in situ- joined! Layer, the caretaker arrived to collect fees and we asked about Rex Amber the carver. We discovered this local resident had died back in 1987 and his animals dated well before that. All subjected to a tough life in the park, particularly the turtle (regularly turned on its back) and a large crocodile. The poor croc, on numerous occasions was towed behind a ute through town by local youths having a lark!   George, the caretaker, in an effort to preserve these treasures, keeps them painted. We liked the snakes and yabby!  

Continuing up the Torrens Valley scenic route to Eden Valley, a short distance away, on the thirteenth day of consecutive temperatures in the 40’s breaking a 117 year old heat record; we edged along vineyards to Eden Valley Caravan Park. The caretaker allowed us to park well under some pine trees calling it a ‘pent house’ site in view of  heat -10am and already a stinky of a day.  We’d stayed here in 2006 with Joe and Mona Skehel when we’d brought them up to see a few of the Barossa wineries.  We were back for two nights on this community showground/sports field run by the Barossa Council; ready to meet up with Di Godson from Perth, her dog Benny and a friend Jenny Matthews.  Di recently invested in Gypsy Rose, rented her home for a year and set off to enjoy the golf courses around Australia with Benny. Jenny, keen to travel the Nullarbor had accompanied Di on her Perth/Adelaide leg before flying on to Rockhampton.  Way laid by the numerous distractions travel unexpectedly exposes, we were down to one night with Di.

Air-con ran all day and night and on waking next morning we delighted in a fresh feel to the air and signs of drizzle.  A brisk morning walk took us out into the farming surrounds and we were glad to get a good leg stretch amongst the rolling hills so typical of outer Adelaide, until raindrops had us about turn. We were pretty damp by the time we arrived home. By midday the rain had set in and it barely let up for the next two days.  Extra-ordinary, to go from record breaking heat wave to record breaking rainfall; the heaviest torrential rain in 45 years!   Spag Bol prepared in readiness for a happy evening together with no time wasted over mundane – it was good to see Gypsy Rose roll in towing Di’s motor bike on a trailer.  

 

Gypsy Rose in the background, three damp cookies Di, Jenny and Lea enjoy dinner in the camp kitchen rather than huddled in Getaway, made possible by a short break in the weather!  

Most off putting to get back on the road in such wet conditions especially when the News reported flash flooding in and around Adelaide. Di and Jenny needed to be closer to the airport. We were keen to be further west in readiness for our long awaited ‘touring leg’ with Di and Peter Ryan, travelling across from Perth.  We were being drawn in the direction of Burra, after both of us read Simon Nasht’s book “The Last Explorer”.    On Valentine’s Day, in windy, overcast rainy weather we drove to Burra, pitched camp in the showgrounds just before the heavens opened up and the area received 75mm of rainfall in the space of 3-4 hours. That evening we received an SES Alert on our mobile to ‘Watch and Act as there was a risk of flash flooding in your area’. Amazing how useful mobiles prove to be in times of serious fire and flooding.  We checked around us and all was well on our hill.

The weather looked a lot less threatening the next day and we decided to grab what information available from Burra VIC before setting our purpose for having come this way in motion... 16kms was Mt Bryan where Australia’s unsung hero, Sir Hubert Wilkins (photographer, adventurer, aviator, and Polar explorer) had grown up.  We picked up on other snippets of interest while at the VIC aside from the need to collect a key from Mt Bryan Hotel for the Wilkins homestead and to be very wary of road conditions...  

En route to Mt Bryan, the relics of the Burra Homestead used by Australian Band, Midnight Oil’s, ‘Diesel and Dust’ CD cover in the 80’s. Meaningful to a mother, whose love of their music, came by compulsory osmosis and echoes with memories of a teenage son, in Africa.

 After wasting an hour patiently waiting for the hotel to open followed by no response to phone calls; we eventually set off on our own for Mt Bryan East. A gravel road took us past the rugged Razorback Range into farmland set amongst rolling hills. After so much rain the previous day, we found it strange to see little evidence along the gravel road other than a few washaways here and there or puddles beside the road. In a landscape so parched and thirsty for water it had been immediately soaked up. As for the number of ruins; there were many! Lovely old stone homesteads  abandoned by occupants who’d given up on the struggle of farming beyond the Goyder Line (SA Surveyor General, George Goyder had delineated the 250mm isohyets or rain line between land deemed suitable for agriculture and land that was not.  Dry watercourses were now nothing but deep gullies carved into the red earth. We were amongst “the land of the ghosts” so well described by Simon Nasht in his superb book The Last Explorer. It was hardly surprising that both George Goyder and Hubert Wilkins became preoccupied by the impact of droughts and the fickleness of rain and weather.

We came to understand this on reaching the humble Wilkins Homestead set in a pretty bleak landscape beset with wind.  Although we were unable to enter the building as we did not have the keys it was still just as inspiring to walk around the outside of the house thinking of Hubert (1888- 1958) tending to his father’s sheep, hunting dingoes and camping out with his Aboriginal friends. The last born of 13 children (five died) in this small house without power and where water had to be collected off the roof in a climate where water was so scarce. He attended the tiny Mt Bryan East School – a walk in high heat or cold that lay all of 4 kms away. Someone, raised in the back of beyond, not even in possession of a birth certificate rose to knighthood, with a list of achievements so far reaching and numerous that after his death it was proposed his remains be interred in Westminster Abbey! Instead, at the request of his wife, his ashes were scattered from a nuclear submarine under the North Pole.  An absolutely amazing man that, sadly, many Australians seem not to have even heard about!  It was thanks to millionaire business man and entrepreneur Dick Smith with his interest in aviation and keen to know more about Sir Hubert Wilkins and his birthplace; that the house, reduced to a pile of rubble, was brought to light in 1990. Dick Smith initiated a building project with the help of the Australian Geographic Society and restoration of Wilkins childhood home began in 1999 and completed 2001.

Next we set off to find the school he attended. A tiny place with a single classroom and an attached room for the teacher to live in. It is now used as a stop-over by hikers undertaking the Heysen Trail, as a result the school is open and a bank of mattresses on an elongated bunk bed took up the majority of space.  A pile of books left behind by hikers stacked in the corner.  Lea’s eyes noticed  ‘Gold Beyond your Dreams” and she began reading the Heather Turland story of winning marathons and that was that; it had to leave with her- The Book Thief!   We returned via Hallett hoping to see some “very significant gum trees”. Not knowing where to start looking for them we happened to ask a fellow we saw standing in a driveway training a puppy to stay in a ute! He turned out to be a veritable font of information! A  5^th generation farmer, quick to  explain the trees concerned were nothing more than a small copse of snow gums growing on private property at the top of Mt Bryan.  Their ‘significance’ as the only snow gums outside the Victoria Alps and the high country of NSW thanks to a chilly microclimate experienced on Mt Bryan’s summit (where slight sprinklings of snow are known to fall in severe winters accounting not only for their presence, but also that of a tiny orchid) came to public knowledge when Greenies presented them as a reason against building wind farms on Mt Bryan. Now, faced with the realities of climate change, he was finding it more and more difficult to keep going. As for his two young sons he saw no prospects for them on the land. His ensuing viewpoint even led to how CO₂ released into the atmosphere from the melting of permafrost now underway in the northern hemisphere meant that whether we liked it or not the process of climate change was well and truly underway, and that the outcome in the form of more extreme, unpredictable weather was inevitable.  Spot on … other than the fact he thought more wind farms would help reduce the problem!  People need to realise that once that “tipping point” has been reached, there is no turning back.  

Although we had previously spent a night in the showgrounds of Burra as we passed through; we had noticed the many quaint stone cottages  spread along the valley and with another day in hand before we moved off we were interested in learning more about Burra and its reputation as the  best preserved mining town in South Australia. We devoted the next day (Sunday 16th) to a tour of Burra Burra Mine (Monster Mine - colloquially). The new colony of South Australia’s first Company mine with the richest ore in the world at the time 1845 – 1867. Miners, predominantly from Cornwall with the expertise, flocked to the area to mine underground.  We walked around the mine site admiring the stonework on the tall, recently restored engine houses that once contained the winding machines and beam pumps required to dewater the mine. Afterwards, we drove back into the village to find the dugouts on the creek bank where prior to 1850 the families of up to 1800 miner’s lived, as a result of housing shortages. Many children were to die living in this type of situation and it seemed natural to move onto the cemetery and take a walk around – thick swathes of fine leaf matter and soft seed pods blanketed the flow paths of storm water between graves. 

 

 

 

 

 

A blue dome day after days of heavy rain cloud and we made for Clare, a regional centre for the wine making Clare Valley and surrounds where we looked forward to a good sized supermarket to replenish with fresh fruit and vegetables. Woolworths was a pleasure to see and once we’d completed our shop we climbed over the last of the hills to be given extended views across the coastal plains at the head of the Yorke Peninsula. Preferring to colour in new routes, we travelled the road to Blyth before turning north to Brinkworth, where we stopped for the night in this little settlements ‘Travellers Rest’ – cheap, clean and quiet.  Next day, we happily met up with Di and Peter Ryan in Port Broughton.   

 

A team pic at Port Broughton’s jetty overlooking Spencer Gulf! The daily walk didn’t go far due to non-stop chatter!

 

We were ready to explore the well known ‘leg’ of land known as the Yorke Peninsula.

Travelling down the western side we ‘goosed’ around in Moonta awhile trying to locate the 1860 copper mine established there after a shepherd found green stones around a wombat burrow. With the copper industry erupting in South Australia, many skilled miners from Cornwall immigrated. They were nicknamed cousin Jacks and Jennies and Cornish influences are strong throughout the Yorke Peninsula which is also known as the copper coast. Apart from the tailing dumps, the engine room ruins were similar in style to Burra. We rested up in the Barley Capital of the World- Minlaton for the night in a most pleasant caravan park overlooking a fauna park. Movement there often caught our eye and we’d see emus and later kangaroos passing along the boundary fence.

Captain Harry Butler’s Memorial captured our attention during the evening walk...

Captain Butler’s celebration arises in August 1919 as the first man to fly travel over ‘sea’ in the Southern Hemisphere carrying the Royal Mail from Adelaide to his hometown, Minlaton, on the Peninsula. We found that rather extraordinary as the St Vincent Gulf is not that wide and George was convinced Sir Hubert Wilkins had been the first to cross the Timor Sea during the course of the England to Australia Air race in 1919. Memory failed; as on checking he found Sir Hubert had crashed beforehand! It was good to see how much care and expense had been put into preserving Captain Butler’s Bristol monoplane ‘Red Devil. He purchased it from the British Government; shipped it out to South Australia and made a name for himself as a dare devil with his flying stunts. Naturally, it was painted red!

The 1881 Lighthouse at Corny Point – named by Matthew Flinders for looking like a corn on the foot of Yorke Peninsula! We thought it more like the little toe.

Ryan’s were delayed by a slow puncture in Minlaton. We walked the scenic area here before putting the kettle on in readiness for their arrival. As we travelled east the wind rose and clouds moved in bringing squally weather. A decision was made to check out the Innes National Park camp sites before taking caravans in and we booked into Marion Bay Caravan Park.

The afternoon was spent exploring Innes National Park with dramatic views and interesting historical tales. The wind, so strong along the coast it made photography difficult.

The ticked site in Camp 6 at Pondalowie Campground failed to impress us with narrowly confined sites, all in close proximity making them difficult to negotiate with anything other than small caravans or camping trailers. We were to pass many emu families along the route, quite unperturbed by vehicles, which is unusual. Historic Inneston Township’s Walking trail with interpretive signs provided the story of a tight knit community in this remote location, during the early 1900’s mining gypsum. Between the ruins of the township and the Stenhouse jetty the ground glinted with small fragments of crazy paving gypsum – similar in appearance to mica or shattered shards of mirror. To the teacher among us- in a small shed, chalk, a by-product of gypsum proved particularly interesting as Bellco Chalks had supplied most Australian schools! Having seen all that was on offer in the National Park we decided to move on up the eastern ‘leg’ next day. A LONG day ensued as nothing appealed in the little towns or camping grounds that we called in to see. By the afternoon the weekend crowd with boats and caravans were particularly noticeable on the busy road that bounced us around with its uneven surface. Caravan parks fully booked and on seeing the non powered spots they were prepared to squeeze us into, we scampered! We kept going out, until out  the Peninsula we reached Balaklava and fortunately found quiet respite in an open and attractive caravan park run by the council. Whilst glad to have seen what Yorke Peninsula offered, general consensus was a lot of kilometres for little relaxation and reward. Personally, we recognised many similarities to Kangaroo Island with its cultivated land and coves around the foot or bottom end.

We decided to return east to the Barossa Region with the Ryan’s and base up at Eden Valley so that we could visit Maggie Beer’s Farm store together.  A delightful Sunday was spent in Tanunda enjoying a couple of visits to cellar doors in an area synonymous with wine. Must say we gain a different perspective of wine regions when we are with the Ryan’s as opposed to travelling straight through. Seppeltsfield Road had a beautiful stretch lined with old palm trees dating back to 1851 when the Seppelt family built their winery and played a significant role in Barossa’s early history. Rare fortified wines sold in 100ml bottles according to year of birth or age are a mind boggling price! Further along the well known road was one of our reasons for returning to the Adelaide outskirts - Maggie Beer’s Farm Shop.

All day eating overlooking the lake, vineyard and olive grove – was delectable!

We fell for Maggie when she appeared on television in a delightful series The Cook and the Chef. Maggie, a self taught cook moved to the Barossa, with her husband to farm pheasants. In an effort to market their game birds they opened a farm shop. With Maggie demonstrating ways to cook the pheasant to up sales; the shop grew into the famed Pheasant Farm restaurant. When it all proved a bit much she changed direction and began Maggie Beer’s Farm shop.  What a setting; what a delight to wander amongst her farm brands all for sale with very generous tasting tables for everything. Lea battled to get George to TRY and ended up bringing forced tasting to him... Easy to spend big as all so deliciously unusual and made with a Foodie’s love!  The Burnt fig or the Raspberry and pomegranate jams very special but then so was the salted brandy caramel sauce and of course Maggie’s name is well tied to Verjuice and Vino cotto.  Lea particularly fancied the coffee and the fig flavoured ones, stalwartly refraining from spending as ambitious plans lie ahead of us. We delighted in her baskets of bread and pate for lunch – missed the photographic opportunity when they arrived garnished with blossomed mint sprigs. Well before the 2 p.m. cooking demo in Maggie’s kitchen (a copy of her real kitchen used for the Cook and Chef Series) Di and Lea ensured they had front row seats. Maggie was away at her beach house and in her place Seb, a delightful young lad who’d been with Maggie for 6 years, ran the show.  He asked who was excited to be there... Di’s enthusiastic ‘yes’ overheard above all voices promptly had her nailed as his assistant. So Di cooked in Maggie’s kitchen no less. Great place - great day!

A week with the Ryan’s not quite up, they departed for a night in Adelaide and we made for Frank Potts Reserve to await them for a last night before they continued their travels towards Melbourne. We could hardly believe the ‘traffic’ in Frank Potts- busy, busy, busy!  So much so, it had overflowed to another area near the Creek Bridge. Fortunately our previous spot was vacant and we set up ‘laager’ there. The Ryan’s arrived on schedule and so taken with our attractive spot they stayed two nights in Frank Pott’s, much to our glee. Knowing little about the Coorong and Murray River Mouth we were glad to join them on a ride down to Milang and around western side of Lake Alexandrina to Hindmarsh Island, Goolwa Barrage and the lookout over Goolwa Beach.  Di remarked on its likeness to Muizenberg Beach. Having lived in Muizenberg – it certainly presented a truth!  We ended up picnicking up at the Horseshoe Bay Lookout in Port Eliot before retracing the route home through the vineyards and olive groves.

 

Overlooking the Murray River mouth from Hindmarsh Island.

The Goolwa Barrage

After a lovely week together, our friends departed for Victoria. Hopefully we will meet up with them again on their homeward journey through South Australia in early April.  Oddly, for us, we’d departed Frank Potts at the beginning of February and here we were, back in Frank Potts to see out the last six nights of February in order to bring our monthly expenditure back under control in this lovely free camp. 

A pan of the Frank Potts Reserve, a peaceful environment. We camp off the bottom right corner and enjoy watching numerous backpackers  arrive  late evening to swell numbers further with their tents...