Tramping tales for September / October 2012

Tramping in ENGLAND

The flight from Johannesburg to Manchester via Frankfurt was probably the easiest long haul flight we have done in a long while. Aside from having plenty of leg room, the flights went smoothly and easily and our daughter, Justine was waiting at that early hour, to whisk us the two and a half hours home to Tetney, in North East Lincolnshire.

Daniel had wheels waiting for us in the form of a smart little blue VW Polo and before we knew we were back in the swing of an English lifestyle as if we’d never been away.  September soon flipped past with a day spent up in Sudbury, outside Lincoln, visiting our friends, Joe and Mona Skehel; appointments made for medical and dental checks and a happy return to Tuesday’s Senior Movie mornings at Parkway. Before each film starts, the high light of these mornings has to be Mr Parks’ arrival with two sidekicks to present two lucky seat holders with a ‘goody bag’ containing a free cinema ticket and a bag of sweets/ lollies (Lea was a lucky recipient when we went to see the new version of “Anna Karenina”).These men, amuse with their broad northern accented banter as they “try” to recall forthcoming attractions. It’s so delightfully ‘English’ we find ourselves thoroughly enjoying these preliminaries!

Dinner with Matt and Sue Ramsden is always an occasion! September ended with a wonderful family gathering of two brothers, their wives, children along with the Leslie, Begg and Ramsden In-laws and all the dogs.... for a superb Moroccan meal, next door. 

Lea was thrilled to join the Weelsby group for a pub supper-catch up at The Hainton in Grimsby with her past teaching colleagues Jan Slesser, Marilyn Wilde and Rachel Cullum. Sally forgot! As it’d been so long since Lea had driven a car let alone at night, that after the evening out she found herself hyperventilating in the dark lonely car park unable to switch on headlights! Drat VW placing it in such an unlikely spot!  Otto’s eleventh Birthday was an occasion he shared with his brother Roo and friend Joshua in a day at a Skate Park up in Leeds. After all that physical action the boys were glad to return in time for a fine Curry dinner out in Cleethorpes with the family.

Otto cuts his chocolate birthday cake with meringue inside and all covered in marshmallow frosting as per his instructions to his maternal granny “Mom-mom”. 

We’d heard complaints of a wet summer only to find the tail end providing us with most pleasant weather. Dan took his sons camping the first Saturday night after we’d arrived. The three excitedly set off down the paddock, with all their gear attached to backs for a night at the Tetney Blow Holes, a kilometre away. Once, Otto had received equipment for camping amongst his birthday presents, another night out took place.  This time, the three went in the opposite direction across the Tetney golf-course. As a young lad, Daniel had camped overnight in all these places with his three brothers and he hoped his sons would derive the same enjoyment on their own in time, as he had done.

It was such a beautiful evening that Mum and grandparents couldn’t resist strolling across the fairways to see how they were getting on and found the merry campers settled comfortably beside the beck near the 7^th hole!

Since we were last here Westfield Farm has a Jacuzzi installed in the garden. Someone jokingly offered Daniel this monstrous Jacuzzi IF he could get it out of their home without damaging the house! They either underestimated Daniel’s ingenuity or they didn’t want to pay someone to cart it away.

 A beautiful, windless Sunday Lea was prevailed upon to try out the Jacuzzi! She stayed in until she had turned into a prune it was so gorgeous. Getting out was quite another story – bathers appeared to instantly freeze up unpleasantly on a warm body!

A close friendship that began when two young women began their first job in the same firm simultaneously in Bulawayo - led to their children growing up together from birth, despite living in two different cities Salisbury (Harare) and Bulawayo. Even after their mothers died within a month of each other, the second generation continued to pick up on their friendships where-ever they found themselves in the world. This time, Pippa Gammage caught the train from Hereford across to Cleethorpes to share a few days with us.  While George had his scan at the hospital Lea showed Pippa around Grimsby before the trio were able to head out into the Lincolnshire Wolds to find lunch at the Cross Keys Pub in Tetford; owned by two old Rhodesians and full of Rhodesian memorabilia although the flag looks pretty weather beaten. We returned to explore Louth, the latest award winning historical market town until the biting wind drove us out of town.  We called in at Moat Farm and took a wonderfully relaxing swim in John Ramsden’s heated pool- bliss! It rained all night yet contrary to forecast weather, the day cleared and we hot footed it to Lincoln via Sudbury where we nipped in to check on Mona Skehel who’d just had a knee op.   

Beautiful day, beautiful Lincoln! Pippa and Lea pose within the castle grounds with the cathedral in the background.

Lincoln Castle was one of the first to be built by William the Conqueror in 1068 and it has been used as a court and prison for more than 900 years and it is still a working Crown Court today. Although the castle is undergoing massive restorations in readiness for the 800^th anniversary of Magna Carta in 2015, it has been kept open to allow visitors to observe the changes. We delighted in a quiet exhibition hall to view one of the four remaining original copies of the 1215 Magna Cartas (we all learned about in school history lessons!) housed in Lincoln Castle along with one of only two surviving Charters of the Forest from 1217. Even the quaint cobbled streets were a pleasure to stroll along without any pre-Christmas buzz. The Cathedral too, was stress less to look around and we had a thoroughly good time together. Pippa’s last morning was spent walking along the Humber Estuary and Cleethorpes beach before we returned her to the station for her train home.

Justine stands below her abundant grape vine outside the back door. Some went to wine making friends and a Bee Keeper was keen to make grape jelly while George championed insistently for a couple of bottles of grape jam!    

Before the Bee-keeper arrived to take the lot, George picked some for Lea to make jam. Two and a half kilograms were de-pipped and a recipe concocted from a mixture of jam making recipes produced three jars... George and Otto dived in and as the second bottle in as many days came to an end they were begging for MORE to be made.

Come the weekend, it was heads down and looking for pips as another 5kgs of grapes were prepared for jam making.  Jam eaters Otto and Roo were eager to help in the laborious task.

Over the coming weeks the Bee-keeper lost out completely as all three grandchildren helped harvest and prepare another 15kgs of grapes and the jam was still as popular as ever. Our last batch made in November to strip the vine of its last remaining bunches.

Besides bringing up a family, Justine’s life revolves heavily around basketball. As a result of her enthusiasm for the game she has gone all out to introduce it locally. Every week she is out coaching at her children’s school, at a high school and a ladies team in Louth and she plays in a Grimsby men’s team. Some weeks are busier than others, as she is offered specific coaching work or she is asked to referee games.

Matches tend to happen over weekends and we were keen to go and watch Justine in action. Even better, both grandsons, Otto and Roo were playing for Signhills School against a team in Louth.

Good match, good win as Signhills (in blue) post a vital basket. Kiki can’t wait to start her basketball training after the half term break and join her brothers in the team as soon as possible.  

Misfortune struck late at night with Justine tearing her calf muscle during a match practise with the Grimsby men’s team. Daniel and Lea had to go and rescue her during the period of a three day long fog blanketing north east Lincolnshire. With Dan driving Justine’s vehicle home, Lea didn’t enjoy driving back in such nasty conditions. Next day George taxied Justine to the doctor and hospital for an ultra sound assessment while Lea took the children to school and saw to the domestic front. Justine was told to rest and keep her leg up for at least a week.  All in her favour bar missing out on a match that night, she could rest up without a conscience and her parents waiting on her hand and foot, as half term was coming up freeing her of basketball commitments.

We were suddenly aware that AUTUMN was upon us – leaves were falling fast and the kids had fun raking up banks of yellowed leaves which Kiki threw to the wind!

Half Term and long in advance, we’d booked a family adventure on a narrow boat. Putting together the right trip at the right price on the right days had proved pretty time consuming so you may imagine our dismay when the a call came telling us “Bridie Bear” had been damaged and out of commission the week before our departure. The company could only replace with two unsuitably sized narrow boats. Providentially, another company in Nantwich Marina was able to supply us with a boat from the Tuesday to the Saturday and our spirits soared again.  Only to have our hearts sink hearing a forecast of gale winds and snow for our week – the after effects of Hurricane Sandy currently causing havoc around New York. This created anxiety about the heating system on board and we packed more clothes to deal with wet and freezing conditions...

Narrow boating was a first for us all and the car was packed the night before for an early departure on hearing from the Marina we could have the boat any time we wanted on the Tuesday and not at the allotted 3 o’clock. A smooth unbroken three hour journey brought us to Nantwich where ‘Llangollen Navigator’ lay ready and waiting.  Wow! Never realized a narrow boat was quite so narrow - George felt quite broad shouldered for the duration of the trip! Never-the-less this 60 footer was most comfortably set out. Although the instructive debriefing on locks and safety sounded quite daunting, with the help of our tutor we were soon underway. Once on the main Shropshire Union Canal he left us to our own devices! 

The canal remarkably murky (muddy) and so shallow that upon nearing the sides we found the boat could easily ground and become stuck in the mud. Ducks (mallards), moorhens and swans a plenty and an attractive rural landscape, heavily wooded in some places, on either side. At one spot we saw an otter – plying to and fore across the canal.

Otto fully clothed, nonchalantly paddleboards his way along a waterway, much to the amazement of gongoozlers (on-lookers) in contrast to his grandfather steering the boat with such serious intent. George needed to rebuild his reputation after all too many ‘accidents’ which included giving the dredger a mighty thump!

Locks and Bridges created wonderful photographic opportunities. Forty two bridges curved over the waters between Nantwich and Chester

Having expended nervous energy during that first hour or so we were glad to tie up and tuck into a good lunch at the Olde Barbridge Inn beside the canal. Chugging on, no faster than 4 mph away from traffic noise and in true nomad style we moored up in a peaceful rural stretch of water before the wintery gloaming truly set in, for our first night. Despite the cold night air we were toasty as can be.  A dvd “War Horse” enthralled us all, until droopy eyes overtook us all. In the comfy beds (fractionally on the short side for the likes of us) we positively sweltered! Lea cursed she’d brought such a warm nightie until towards morning, the radiators ran out of power and the chill had us all stirring early.  Lea shot out of bed the moment she heard the engine start up and joined the eager males on the back deck to ensure she didn’t miss the arrival of our first Lock in nearby Bunbury (instructions had sounded such a ‘scary’ procedure to us novices). A double Staircase Lock at that!  Another series of locks were to follow before our second day was done  – the Tilstone Lock, the Beeston Stone Lock (not too far from the remains of a 14^th century castle built by the Earl of Chester in 1937 perched on top of the only hill we could see  and Wharton’s Lock. Daniel and the boys did all the opening and closing of the locks (closing the rack and pinion operated gate paddles with a windlass, shoving against the long balance beams) while George drove in and out of each lock chamber, not without a little bumping, crashing and scraping while the boat sank between the walls of the surprisingly deep chambers.



Walking the tow-path beside the canal was quite the most enjoyable exercise.  The kids periodically rode their bikes and we all learnt to go ahead and prepare the next lock. 

We’d been warned that boating was a slow process but as we all got the hang of it we found ourselves making good time despite slight delays due to dredging taking place and of course when George felt he had right of way and two other oncoming narrow boats knew they had right of way created a hazardous moment with George crashing into the dredger. Daniel could see that coming and captured it on video for posterity!

Autumn proved to be a glorious season to roam the waterway. We could stop at will; we enjoyed wonderful rural and village vistas with little concern for traffic and we slipped through locks with ease.  This brief experience led us to believe summer peak season could easily be hell on water for the likes of us. 

 From Egg bridge (in Waverton) to the pretty village of Christleton, we all left the skipper in peace and contemplation, and enjoyed a brisk walk before deciding the area alongside The Cheshire Cat, a “canal-side hostelry” would be a good place to spend the night and once Llangollen tottered in we all relaxed for the rest of the afternoon. As darkness set in, Dan and Lea took Otto, Roo and Kiki on a mythical night search for Alice and the white rabbit to expend pent up energy before settling in the Cheshire Cat Pub between roaring fires and a lovely atmosphere, for a drink while our own supper cooked on the boat.

Contrary to the weather forecast for Thursday we awoke to a blue sky with soft mists rising off the water. However, Dan and George found ice on the back deck when they untied, ready to steam on down the canal in the knowledge we wanted to spend some hours wandering around Chester and there were five locks to get through beforehand. Thoroughly rugged up against the biting cold, we could see the picturesque spires of Chester for a brief period before water levels dropped us downwards.   

We found a narrow boat waiting at the first of the locks. This was a test of the skipper’s mettle to park along side it within the confined cavern. With an experienced couple beside us, we soon learned new tricks and were through all the locks quickly.

We found no parking problems on the very edge of this beautiful Roman walled city of Chester – we left Dan to turn the boat in what is called a “winding hole”, while the rest of us dashed off. Justy taking three excited children on a ‘shopping spree’ while George and Lea did a speedy reconnaisance through the shopping precinct.

An enthralling city that rose from the ashes on numerous occasions as a result of its battle ground history dating back to William the Conqueror.  

Passing many half timbered houses and views led us to Grosvenor Museum, full of old fashioned displays in a musty old building where only the photographic story with clear concise historical information on Chester through the ages appealed to us in the short time we had available. We’d love to return to this city as time was just too short.  By mid-day ‘Llangollen Navigator’ was heading home. Such a lovely bracing day, Justine and Lea walked the tow path leaving the men to chug along the canal. Again, with a couple of narrow-boat enthusiasts heading in the same direction, they “saved water” by sharing the locks. Just as well, as going upstream was a very different experience as the boat was thrown around by the incoming water as each lock filled, rather than emptied. Happily trudging along, Justine and Lea were surprised to find themselves outside the ‘Cheshire Cat’ quite quickly. We were to tie up here for the night and eat in ‘Cheshire Cat’ pub. Daniel rowed in on the paddle board a bit later followed shortly after by George and the kids. Having reached the ‘Cheshire Cat’ earlier than expected we lazed around until dinner time. Sadly no blazing fires and even the meal didn’t come up to scratch- Timing so easily makes or breaks an occasion!

12 miles between Christleton and Barbridge and yet, it took us 7 hours! What with  4 locks including the Barbridge Staircase Locks to negotiate; delays were caused by barges carrying spoil; hanging around for other boats including a working boat carrying coal, to get through the locks.

 A very relaxed and confident, but cold, skipper tills his way through the last of the locks.

 Lea chatted to the grey nomad owner of this narrow-boat, as she walked along the tow path while George promptly took a photo of the obvious signs of a permanent traveller by the washing spread across the hedgerow!   

Another example of ‘water tramps’ (in the nicest sense) living a life of freedom! 

 A relaxed Skipper and wife found themselves contemplating a year or two roaming the fascinating waterways of Britain. Perhaps  the Murray River, Down Under, would be another option.

Before we could blink we were home in Tetney and back into the school term.