Sunday, September 29, 2013

Tramping tales for September


There are many times we motor through places that are easily forgettable but it never fails to thrill us when we unexpectedly come across a place, especially a very small place, full of interesting things. Lea had been quite prepared to bypass Nobby yet George thought Nobby Town Park, opposite Rudd’s Hotel was worth a look as it was just that bit closer to Toowoomba and our brunch date with the rellies. NOBBY– strange name for a little settlement! Our interest was piqued seeing a wooden cut out of a pig swaying in the wind, off the main street.  Turned out the name arose in 1864 from a gang of Englishmen contracted to build the railway. One of the men had a voracious appetite to which his mates would pointedly comment ”Sups more than a ships pig” until one day a purse was put together to see whether Nobby Carver could actually outeat a pig.... He did, and his name ‘Nobby’ marked the spot on the railway line for posterity.

We had a free camp on the Nobby Park common alongside the railway line and opposite Rudd’s Hotel. We soon became enamoured with the place. The old Railway Station, mere metres from where we’d set down for the next two nights, operated as a Craft Shop. It was open, with two cheery and chatty ladies in attendance to show us there was more than met the eye in this little place when it came to creativity. Not the usual run of the mill or made in China products. We were content to listen to their yarns of the past as we overlooked the attractive and historic streetscape.
Along the road, Sister Kenny Memorial House with its spring flowers all out. Not much further, a fenced island in the road was signed as the Sister Elizabeth Kenny Memorial Garden.

The name triggered Lea’s recall of a woman in Barcaldine’s Australian Workers Heritage Centre for her controversial treatment of polio in the 1930’s before mass vaccination. Sister Kenny believed in exercising the limbs not in splinting arms and hobbling legs! Her ‘treatment’ became the foundation of physical therapy or physiotherapy as we know it today. Unfortunately Memorial House opens for two days a week – although a key could be made available after hours. Sunday, the next open time was when we’d be with Tim, Les and family.
Across the railway line we noticed cars parked outside grounds that appeared to have historic value and as evening fell we walked that way. The sign Dillybag Gunyah outside, didn’t give much away other than a mobile number for wedding receptions.  As it seemed empty and unattended, we ventured in and found Tony Fenner quietly relaxing with his only beer outside a charming Slab hut.  Yes, a wedding had taken place that afternoon accounting for the cars and folk roaming the small garden property amidst an assortment of vintage looking buildings.  Regardless of the hour Tony kindly showed us over the deconsecrated Lutheran Church he’d bought and transported to this site, the only truly vintage building.  The other buildings were only 9 years old! Tony hand built them all using recycled materials scavenged from derelict farm building to give authentic flavour.  His attention to detail was particularly noticeable in his craftsmanship as was his humour. As he opened the old dunny door, Lea leapt back on observing a seated fellow caught with his pants down! So too, George was taken aback when ‘Ole Bill’ in the darkened corner of a stage in the shed waved and raised a beer unexpectedly at him.  We were mightily impressed by the fine rustic venue Tony has produced for any type of celebration or special gathering.

Dillybag Gunyah in Nobby.    

 
George liked the look of Rudd’s Hotel and invited his wife out to dinner there... Rudd’s Pub features in Australia’s Award winning Top 100 and takes its name from Steele Rudd or more correctly Arthur Hoey Davis.

With no recognition of the name we soon gleaned plenty while we enjoyed a tasty pub dinner in a busy hotel (obviously good value for family outings come Saturday night). Our meal was served at a table in the original lounge where Steele Rudd apparently wrote his stories about Dad and Dave (Australian cultural icons) beside the fire in this small room. From the walls covered in historical photos, newspaper cuttings and memorabilia we progressively learned more about Steele Rudd’s association with area.  Travelling back to Toowoomba along the New England Highway for the Howman Brunch next day we passed through Greenmount, known as Emu Creek in the early days. Our knowledge on Steele Rudd grew as we spotted Steele Rudd’s Selection. More correctly the Davis Selection as this is where Arthur Hoey Davis grew up as the fifth son and number 8 amongst 13 children born to his blacksmith father and Irish mother, Thomas and Mary Davis. This small holding became the inspiration behind his most famous story ‘On our Selection’, after the Editor of the Bulletin told him to write about what he knew as that would be more believable!  Arthur Hoey Davis left school at 12 years of age to begin earning a living as was often the way amongst large families eking a life out of the land. He tried his hand at different jobs until he found steady work in the Sheriff’s Office, Brisbane. His after-hours hobby of rowing; along with an interest in literature was enough to write the newspaper Rowing column under the pseudonym ‘Steele Rudder’. This was shortened to Steele Rudd once his stories of life on a selection (small holding) were serialised in the newspaper. We love that areas take on a new persona through characters and our brains stretch...
Howman family at Pamusoro

We joined the Father’s Day brunch Heath and Traill laid on for their dad, Tim at a table setting on the verandah of Pamusoro with its panoramic views over the Lockyer Valley. Winter had ended with the highest temperatures on record and we were blessed with a beautiful summery day to herald the first day of spring. So much to celebrate on this day of family togetherness; meeting the next Howman generation, Joshua (4) and Isabelle (1); bantering with bridegroom Traill, two weeks off being a married man and his fiancée, Michelle away on her ‘Hen’s weekend’ with sister-in-law to be Kate and friends. It was good to enjoy time with them all and refresh memories and family history with Cousins Sarah and  Tim and his wife Leslie.
 Next day, we moved southwards on the New England Highway across the Southern Downs towards Warwick. This highway suits its name as we were reminded of England, Scotland and even Tasmania, all the way along the route. Warwick was a bigger town than expected and we just kept travelling as we steadily climbed rolling hills. Soft fruit orchards just coming into blossom and numerous wineries became very evident as we reached the Granite Belt highlands surrounding Stanthorpe. We were glad it was no longer Brass Monkey season as Stanthorpe is known for being the coldest place in Queensland. Each time we thought we’d stop there was nothing to encourage us to do so... Nine kilometres past Stanthorpe, we stopped outside a Country Style Accommodation Park sign in Glen Aplin. George popped in to check the place out. New owners Kim and Jamaine had literally just taken over this caravan, camping and cabin park, two days prior. Very well priced and nicely situated we were glad to spend a night there even if we had to rug up warmly as the sun set. Signs around the ablution block and camp kitchen were a little confronting until it dawned on us that at the height of fruit picking, this park probably fills with backpackers. Jamaine enlightened us next day. Indeed, a large influx of seasonal vegetable pickers will arrive next month.
A view of the camp grounds and Caravan Park from the weir; equally beautiful below the weir, exposed granite bedrock with streamlets and willow islands from which arose the distinctive resonance of Pobblebonks... 

Although bright sunshine woke us, it steadily clouded up once we hit the road to Tenterfield. As soon as we crossed the State Border into New South Wales, we realised how close we were to Glen Innes and recalled the shocking minus 9 Celsius we’d experienced there in 2011 not to mention all the rain that fell as we travelled along the New England Highway to Armadale.  We decided the grey drizzly clouds certainly didn’t encourage a night in Tenterfield and we turned eastwards, down the slow descent of the Great Dividing Range to Casino. We had made a booking at the Casino Village Caravan Park to care for our rig as from 6-16 September. We were booked to catch the train from Casino to Gosford over this  period to stay with Leecy and Chris and attend their Australian registered wedding on the 14 September before their Bali wedding and reception took place ten days later.
We were very taken with the large caravan park in Casino. Rather like Golf Course Estates, this is a purpose built housing estate for owners with recreational vehicles. Each home has garaging for the RV on one side and vehicle on the other. Owners can hook up and go at the drop of a hat knowing everything is secure within the Big Four run ‘Casino Village’. Club house, entertainment hall and an open air recreation centre with blazing fire for ‘happy hour’ amidst beautiful well kept grounds all part of the scene.  We enjoyed walking the avenues and staring in at the variety and scale of RV’s – many were massive buses. One garden with its blaze of spring flowers quite took Lea’s breath away as she had many of them at her wedding! Praising the garden to the lady busy working in it – we were told “all flowers reminded her of childhood”. Just lovely!
All according to schedule we boarded the train for the ten hour ride down the coast to Gosford where Chris picked us up in his brand new car and whizzed us back to Killcare where chilled beverages awaited as we came in the door - the party was on! Leecy’s arty home has been transformed into a very elegant and different abode. Finishing touches were still on the go and there was much to be organized before the wedding. Next day we worked flat out to break the back of new art studio down in the garage. George did all the wood work and Lea reorganised books and art equipment.
While the ‘cats’ were away on Sunday, the ‘rats’ played... We spent a couple of hours over lunch down on the bay happily catching up with Elizabeth and Bill Murphy,  new friends  we’d met aboard MV Trinity Bay on our way to The Tip.

Then we were three sisters! Chris and Leecy collected Holly from Sydney after a delayed flight from South Africa and a busy week began in earnest as we sifted and sorted through books; prepared and shopped for the wedding and entertained! A cocktail party for Leecy’s art students keen to see the new look house, a day out on the bay and a family dinner to welcome Sheldon home and meet his Ali – were all on the agenda and naturally like all well laid plans, went awry one way or another!  Holly slipped on the stairs and cracked her wrist mid week and landed up chasing a doctor and having x-rays instead of a quiet, relaxed day spent on John Haigh’s boat, Hustler II.

 
We met John and Christine down at their boat jetty and Linda, Librarian at King’s School and close friend of Leecy joined us. The five of us enjoyed a ride around Brisbane Waters out to the Heads before pulling into the Woy Woy wharf to wait long and patiently for the others to catch up with us there, for lunch together.

Despite the car parking problems, doctor delays and Chris going down with a ‘lurgy’ we managed to have an entertaining lunch out on Brisbane Waters before heading home to Hardy Bay. Room for two in Linda’s sporty little car – Lea was given priority as she needed to get the dinner going for ten that night. Leecy had to return to Woy Woy to collect her car as Sheldon was no longer coming up on the train that night (we suspected Ali having cold feet meeting the family!). The rest of our gang walked up the hill to Killcare. Again a litany of events took place and life unravelled... Lea was locked out of the house, unable to get her roast underway. Linda left her bag on the boat and had to return for it. Just as George reached home Leecy and Linda returned to ask him to hot foot it back to the jetty... John’s dinghy had got away leaving both him and Christine stranded out in the bay! Before George could help there he had to find a way into the house as no one had keys! He quickly scaled the house and managed to get in via a balcony. Finally he rescued John and Christine.  Fortunately the dinghy had beached itself and not sailed out to sea. What a day full of fiascos to recall and laugh about over dinner!
Before we knew our first week was over and the big day almost upon us. The house was spotless and dinner needed to be eaten out...   

 
The bride’s clan gathered down at The Tavern - four sisters finally together on the eve of the wedding joined by Leecy’s son Sheldon and girl friend Ali.  Poor sickly Chris was still to arrive from work in Sydney! 

Weather forecast showers for the big day and it luckily remained dry although the seasonal south-easterly wind we had come to know on this side of the coast, put paid to a beach ceremony. We stayed home and as our sister came down the stairs in her peacock colours tears filled the eyes of her siblings.

 
14 September 2013 - the ceremony surrounding the new Mr and Mrs Jones
A beautiful wedding enjoyed by immediate family – all Chris and Leecy’s siblings were there to witness Sheldon ‘give away’ his mother and gain two sisters as they stood by their Dad Chris for their official nuptials.  Later in the night, revelry stepped up when ‘flower girl’ Holly appeared as a cow in a tutu to help serve ‘sweet nothings” and despite a swollen wrist the flower girl and bride gave their rendition of “dead ants”. Another character of note was Ali – on the didgeridoo! We all think George lost his heart to Ali ... full of fun and laughter she settled easily amongst the family and we hope she stays!  

Time never stands still when you are happy and having fun, it whistles by at speed... The four sisters and their men along with Sheldon and Ali spent Sunday together, quietly recovering in relaxed mode, feeding on leftovers. The rain came that night and spread northwards up the coast. Leecy and Chris dropped us at the station for our early train and we slept most of the way. By the time we reached Casino, rain came down hard on and off throughout the night. Big Four Casino was not as accommodating as the Big Four Redlynch, outside Cairns! We had to make an after-hours paid callout for the security man to come and unlock the gates so we could remove our rig. Lea waited with the luggage in the shelter of an ablution block until George had set up our site on a far from pleasant dark, wet night. 
Having caught up on sleep on the train we were ready to move off leisurely next day and found a lovely camp site in the Border Ranges Centre although rather confusingly at the site, it was called Wadeville Woollies.
In mountain surrounds we were ready to break out in song “the hills are alive with the sound of” ...in our case, birds and cattle!

That evening we took a brisk walk down into the valley and caught nothing more than a glimpse of a very shy platypus down in Hanging Rock Creek, despite watching quietly for a good while.
Returning up the hill we found ourselves directing traffic in an effort to safeguard a python trying to cross the road until George persuaded it to return to the bush by touching its tail!

This Border Range area was beautiful area and we were very ready to spend a couple more nights until a phone call came from Ev and Roelie Berg in answer to our text. No time to waste if we wanted to see them as they were leaving their Gold Coast home for Melbourne early Thursday morning. We made for Arundel – just north of Southport next day and once again we looked at the rolling green hills, creeks lined with beautiful trees and quaint villages especially Uki with its hairdressing salon named “Curl up and Dye” and the thought crossed our minds ‘we wouldn’t mind living here"!
Living close to the AB Paterson College parking was a problem during school hours as ‘P plater’s’ parked along the streets. Evelyn and Roelie had left their vehicles outside to ensure a place for our rig. What a pleasure it was to catch up with these two again. We had followed in their tracks from Herberton to Lynd Junction where we made our acquaintances - thereafter we stayed behind them to Porcupine Gorge, Hughenden and finally Winton. From then on we kept in touch by mobile.

 
Maz, the sister from Melbourne took a mug-shot of the four of us....
From Arundel it was an easy ride into Southport. Although we had planned on two nights at Broadwater Tourist Park we hadn’t counted on school holidays and peak season – one night was enough. Having arrived a day early, threw out plans made with Paula Baxter for the following day; she obligingly popped over from her nearby apartment and spent the afternoon and evening with us. She brought George her freshly baked fruit cake, to enjoy along the road.

Paula took us on a lovely walk along the Southport promenade adjacent to Broadwater pointing out the Aquatic Centre under construction for the 2018 Commonwealth Games.  

Such was the stillness next morning we couldn’t resist rising early and retracing our steps taken with Paula the previous evening before packing up and hitting the road for Samford Showgrounds via the Gateway Toll Road. We looked forward to returning to this familiar and lovely spot. We had arranged to see our nephew Byron Rutter on the Friday and Cousin Alison was flying into Brisbane on the Saturday to spend the weekend with us before attending a Hydro Symposium. ALAS, the empty showgrounds did not bode well. It was fully booked out for a very big wedding, not even a corner available to us. The caretaker directed us to another showground further north and off we trundled back the way we had come. Pine Rivers Showgrounds in Lawnton took us in. Although caravans were parked well back behind many of the Agricultural halls we were still aware of traffic hurtling along the old Gympie road and the adjoining railway line. At least the station was close by for Alison and Byron was still prepared to travel this far north from his home in Arundel (of all places) to join us for a BBQ. We settled for three nights – had a delightful evening with Byron (cursed that we forgot to take a photo) and when plans changed with Alison in the eleventh hour – she discovered a close friend from the UK was three hours north of Brisbane – we shared!
We awoke to a hectic Saturday morning market taking place. It swarmed with people on a hot spring day and we soon joined the throng to look around before heading to Albany Creek to see Liz Vickery over a delicious lunch and spend the afternoon.  She had a few household jobs she required doing and that kept George busy. Again the camera was forgotten about. We moved on north next day, keen to have a new ‘roost’ for Alison to easily find as she returned to Brisbane. Keen to find a place along Steve Irwin Way; anxiety levels rose as we battled to find Glass Mountain Campground to eventually give up on that one. Caravan parks were either full or the available sites were small and far from appealing. Time was passing rapidly and we had to consider back tracking... We phoned Beerwah Caravan Park – they had spaces but we were not prepared to take sight unseen... Just as George checked out the sites Alison phoned for directions and we were thankfully able to give them.
Beerwah Caravan Park on the premises of Gowinta Farms is obviously a purpose built caravan park behind a huge fruit shed for their seasonal, itinerant fruit workers. It wasn’t too busy at all and we settled in and waited for Alison to arrive for a quick cuppa and made arrangements for her stay with us in the latter part of the week.  After her departure, Lea made fruit salad; we had found ourselves in an unexpected bit of heaven. Strawberry and pineapple fields spread out in all directions and, UNBELIEVABLY, George had been told to “Help your-self to strawberries out in the fields before the end of season spraying occurs and find plenty of pineapples in a crate at the ablution block to be eaten too”.
George brought Lea a huge strawberry taster – delicious! We rushed off after breakfast to pick a bowlful and that was done in less than five minutes, as there were so many. Such was our delight, George took photos as we prepped and put them to chill.  Couple hours later a neighbour arrived to say “Don’t eat strawberries they have been sprayed” – we could have wept! What a shocking waste. Although there were literally tons for the picking they had ‘passed’ their Supermarket premium picking time and sprayed to kill. The plastic matting rolled up and new ground prepared for the next planting. Mournfully, George put our bowlful into a plastic bag for chucking... That afternoon we went for our walk and passing the caretaker – she told us we were too late to pick strawberries. Lea told her she was already poisoned only to discover the field we’d picked in early morning had been done at noon. We’d be fine... Gleefully we rescued our pickings and enjoyed ‘smoothies’ during the week.
Spring and the temperatures rose to record breaking levels as we waited for Cousin Alison’s arrival. By the Wednesday we needed distractions and decided to go and explore Bribie Island. Our day resulted in more time spent travelling the hectic Bruce Highway in a northern direction before we were able to cross and head southwards to Bribie Island. A good look round at caravan parks had us decided the island would not be a place for us although we enjoyed views to the Glass Mountains and particularly across to Morton Island. This was of interest because Paula Baxter regularly volunteers for environmental work weekends on Morton Island. Unfortunately our dates have clashed when opportunities to join her have arisen.
Gowinta Farms, Caloundra beaches and the Glass Mountains hinterland provided a wonderful backdrop to catch-up time with Cousin Ali...  

A boxed table arrangement of roses, lilies and orchids admirably survived transportation from a symposium formal dinner table to Getaway’s interior despite the onslaught of summer heat. Days later they still hold up well and remind us of three delightful days spent with Alison Howman. Knowing George shares her deep interest in water research and management, Ali brought a wealth of reading material and comment from the Hydro symposium giving him rare opportunity to revisit his old passions. Photographic tours of Kariba, Kruger and the recent weddings of Patrick and Bernice Mills and Alice and Chris Jones served as evening entertainment and this ‘family time’ was interspersed with driving and walking. While ambling along the Caloundra boardwalk we became absorbed in small movement out at sea - it took a while before we were certain it was a whale! The Glass Mountain hinterland is an area that we have always fancied with its dominant volcanic plugs standing proud, winding roads through the Blackall Range with bush walks through rainforest to waterfalls, rock pools and panoramic outlooks. Just when we think we know the best spots around there; another like Kondalilla on the Montville-Mapleton road pops up and shares its natural landscape, birdlife and a beautiful Lace Monitor with us. The semi rural towns, each with different characters, provided sustenance and relaxation along the way. So too, the pleasure of Ali came and went.
Instead of moving on as scheduled we stay in Beerwah/Gowinta Caravan Park another day ready for an early start to the last day of the month. First up ‘Getaway’ is booked for service with Prestige Caravan Repair Works over a couple of days, further north at Forest Glen. We are returning business to two companies that served us very well three years ago and in the meantime, will take up residence in SKV as we tip into October.