Saturday, August 12, 2006

Week 20 (7th - 11th August)

Do we, don’t we, will we, won’t we DO the Gibb River Road? This question has circulated through our brains and conversations with other travellers over and over again. Pamphlets gathered, maps surveyed, road reports obtained in an effort to decide while waiting out 10 days in Broome and, in spite of that, the final decision has yet to be made!

Monday came, although not without frustration. “Broome time” had us wait the repair man until well into the afternoon plus the bus arrived late for Paula taking her to Derby. After 7 weeks it is odd getting accustomed to her absence. We take our hats off to Paula as a major traveller, able to do without water for a good few days using wet wipes! Thankfully the warranty repairs were all completed to our satisfaction. To celebrate, we went to see this year’s Australian entry to the Cannes Film Festival, Ten Canoes, at the oldest garden cinema (dated 1916) in the world. The no-see-ums that lurked beneath the low deck chairs and slatted benches and chomped us throughout the film certainly did not add to the pleasure!

To be part of the 2006 Census Night we added another day in Broome giving us plenty of time to check out the weekly specials in the two big super-markets and stock up for our Kimberley experience.

Back on the road again, leaving Broome for Australia’s unique north-west, we are reminded of Ken Tinley’s inscription in a book that he gave us in 1997 as new immigrants …. “the vast wildness of this land is the space for the soul to grow into ….. revel in its unique wonders”, finally takes life as we enter the Kimberley. George is filled with anticipation at using his new digital camera which, thanks to the bargaining skills of son-in-law Paul, arrived safely in Broome ready for this journey.

With Derby 221km away we put half behind us before settling down in a roadside rest area mid-morning. Despite the relatively early hour, folk were already gathering and by nightfall there were 15 vans gathered in a loose laager. Held captive in Broome we have missed bush camping. When the full moon rose that night bathing our campsite in its light, we felt especially privileged.

The approach to Derby brought a landscape characterised by numerous, various shaped boabs (common Australian usage for baobabs) set amongst masses of termite mounds, was a special delight thanks to our African heritage.


The Prison Tree

Again, accommodation is at a premium in Derby. Luck had us gain another overflow site (adjacent to the washing lines!) in a small, but spotlessly clean park - West Kimberley Lodge. Derby, surrounded by extensive mudflats at the bottom of King Sound, is a hot sleepy little town. Its facilities spread out all over the place even include a rodeo ring. The middle of the main street lined is by boabs. Jutting out into the sea is a semi-circular wharf used for the export of zinc and lead concentrates. The wharf is set on the tallest piers imaginable because Derby experiences the highest tides in the country amounting at times to 11.8m in height! It is yet another great place to watch the sun fall into the sea at sun-downer time.


Sunset at Derby's semi-circular wharf

In haste to log in this week’s blog we find ourselves split between what we have covered and are about to embark on! In celebration of our 38th wedding anniversary we have chosen to experience the excitement of a flight on this seaplane.

Kimberley Seaplane - courtesy of Kimberley Extreme

It will take us over the Buccaneer Archipelago and the famous Horizontal Falls to land at Talbot Bay for a night. We will partake in a jet-boat ride through the Falls, graded extreme due to the state of the tide. An update will be put in the next blog, sometime down the track, on the outcome of our potential adrenalin rush.

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