Bear with us and forgive the reminiscing that may creep into these weeks in the Top End. We have retraced many of our favourite places within the city and its surrounds with funny and familiar recollections flooding back.
In our minds the best barramundi and chips were to be found at three locations, each in settings that left such enduring memories with family and friends that we could not resist treating ourselves to our first meal out. First choice was easily the old railway carriage at the back of the inner harbour. What a disappointment to find it no longer exists. The development boom has turned the area into a construction site for a conference centre and wave pool. A little further on Stokes Hill wharf, overlooking Australia’s biggest natural harbour, beckoned. Providing respite from the heat due to its southerly orientation and gentle breezes wafting off the tranquil expanse of water, we can sit on the edge of the wharf enjoying panoramic views. Smoke haze from the dry season bush fires filter the glare of the setting sun, casting soft pastel hues of light across the sky and water surface. As we gaze out, a surface disturbance catches our eye and a dolphin appears creating a thrill for all the folk spread down the length of the wharf. Seagulls in dervish dances, swoop for chips and scraps thrown by diners, disappear at dark. In their place, illuminated by the beams thrown on the sea below we are now entertained by masses of fish attracted to the light. Feeding frenzies over leftovers begin erupting here and there. We found it hard to leave this balmy night for the confines of Getaway.
Mindil Beach Sunset Market is indubitably Darwinian and truly a multi-cultural experience with its varied sights, sounds and smells. Locals bring their picnic tables and chairs to socialize behind the dune while tourists tend to scatter themselves out on the beach for the sunset ritual. Amongst the array of food stalls, milling crowds jostle to place their orders. A new one for us, this time round is “Road Kill café” serving camel, kangaroo, crocodile and wild pig kebabs! Of course there are plenty of craft stalls to tempt the tourists and crowds are drawn in different directions by the music, singing and dancing that takes place throughout the evening. Ever since our first visit here with Justine, Daniel, Jamie & Emma we have been taken by the ambiance that is Mindil. It was good to be back here.
Mindil beach sunset market - Darwin's favourite community event
Time has reversed since our friend Jo Vandermark would come in from Jabiru to stay in our beautiful apartment in The Sentinel. Now she owns a beautiful apartment in The Sentinel and we had been invited to dinner there! We faced the rising sun, she faces the setting sun. Both views have outstanding outlooks of the harbour and Esplanade gardens from its inner city position. Our senses were elated returning to the pleasures this Apartment building imparts… The red blazed sun steadily dipped downwards, its heat, alleviated by coastal breeze and fine chilled wine on Jo’s deck (or balcony as we always called it). Orange-footed scrub fowls rooting around in the park below and, at dusk, the flying foxes (Lea’s Dad so loved counting them) lazily flapping past after leaving their roosts in Doctor’s Gully - reminding us vividly of the years we spent looking out on these self same scenes. Jo’s inimitable style enhances it all – we had a special night catching up. Her Aboriginal Yirrkala burial poles caught our eye and Jo told us that the annual Telstra National Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander Art Awards were on show …
Not that we needed much reminding to revisit the NT Museum and Art Gallery. Far from being housed in a fusty old building of architectural significance, responsibility for its prime position on the edge of the Arafura Sea must lie with Cyclone Tracey wiping out Darwin on Christmas Day, 1974. We are always happy to visit as it has as much on offer inside as out! Stepping into the time warp of the Cyclone Tracey exhibit sends shivers up one’s spine with all the sights and sounds recorded during this dreadful event. The mounted body of rogue crocodile “Sweetheart” resides here. Such a ludicrous name for a giant of a reptile! His dislike of outboard motor sounds resulted in the attack of over 15 boats on the Finniss River. “Sweetheart” tragically drowned in 1979 while being trans-located away from this popular fishing haven. Up in the Gallery, just as in Cossack with its Pilbara art, we thoroughly enjoyed the diversity of themes and developments in contemporary Aboriginal art in the Telstra Awards.
Re-entering the aesthetically pleasing grounds that surround the building we felt the spirits of both George’s brother, Peter and Lea’s parents around us. They too, had loved roaming around here on many occasions during the last ever holiday of their lives.
The Arafura sea and Pandanus lined shore - NT Museum & Art Gallery
In our minds the best barramundi and chips were to be found at three locations, each in settings that left such enduring memories with family and friends that we could not resist treating ourselves to our first meal out. First choice was easily the old railway carriage at the back of the inner harbour. What a disappointment to find it no longer exists. The development boom has turned the area into a construction site for a conference centre and wave pool. A little further on Stokes Hill wharf, overlooking Australia’s biggest natural harbour, beckoned. Providing respite from the heat due to its southerly orientation and gentle breezes wafting off the tranquil expanse of water, we can sit on the edge of the wharf enjoying panoramic views. Smoke haze from the dry season bush fires filter the glare of the setting sun, casting soft pastel hues of light across the sky and water surface. As we gaze out, a surface disturbance catches our eye and a dolphin appears creating a thrill for all the folk spread down the length of the wharf. Seagulls in dervish dances, swoop for chips and scraps thrown by diners, disappear at dark. In their place, illuminated by the beams thrown on the sea below we are now entertained by masses of fish attracted to the light. Feeding frenzies over leftovers begin erupting here and there. We found it hard to leave this balmy night for the confines of Getaway.
Mindil Beach Sunset Market is indubitably Darwinian and truly a multi-cultural experience with its varied sights, sounds and smells. Locals bring their picnic tables and chairs to socialize behind the dune while tourists tend to scatter themselves out on the beach for the sunset ritual. Amongst the array of food stalls, milling crowds jostle to place their orders. A new one for us, this time round is “Road Kill café” serving camel, kangaroo, crocodile and wild pig kebabs! Of course there are plenty of craft stalls to tempt the tourists and crowds are drawn in different directions by the music, singing and dancing that takes place throughout the evening. Ever since our first visit here with Justine, Daniel, Jamie & Emma we have been taken by the ambiance that is Mindil. It was good to be back here.
Mindil beach sunset market - Darwin's favourite community event
Time has reversed since our friend Jo Vandermark would come in from Jabiru to stay in our beautiful apartment in The Sentinel. Now she owns a beautiful apartment in The Sentinel and we had been invited to dinner there! We faced the rising sun, she faces the setting sun. Both views have outstanding outlooks of the harbour and Esplanade gardens from its inner city position. Our senses were elated returning to the pleasures this Apartment building imparts… The red blazed sun steadily dipped downwards, its heat, alleviated by coastal breeze and fine chilled wine on Jo’s deck (or balcony as we always called it). Orange-footed scrub fowls rooting around in the park below and, at dusk, the flying foxes (Lea’s Dad so loved counting them) lazily flapping past after leaving their roosts in Doctor’s Gully - reminding us vividly of the years we spent looking out on these self same scenes. Jo’s inimitable style enhances it all – we had a special night catching up. Her Aboriginal Yirrkala burial poles caught our eye and Jo told us that the annual Telstra National Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander Art Awards were on show …
Not that we needed much reminding to revisit the NT Museum and Art Gallery. Far from being housed in a fusty old building of architectural significance, responsibility for its prime position on the edge of the Arafura Sea must lie with Cyclone Tracey wiping out Darwin on Christmas Day, 1974. We are always happy to visit as it has as much on offer inside as out! Stepping into the time warp of the Cyclone Tracey exhibit sends shivers up one’s spine with all the sights and sounds recorded during this dreadful event. The mounted body of rogue crocodile “Sweetheart” resides here. Such a ludicrous name for a giant of a reptile! His dislike of outboard motor sounds resulted in the attack of over 15 boats on the Finniss River. “Sweetheart” tragically drowned in 1979 while being trans-located away from this popular fishing haven. Up in the Gallery, just as in Cossack with its Pilbara art, we thoroughly enjoyed the diversity of themes and developments in contemporary Aboriginal art in the Telstra Awards.
Re-entering the aesthetically pleasing grounds that surround the building we felt the spirits of both George’s brother, Peter and Lea’s parents around us. They too, had loved roaming around here on many occasions during the last ever holiday of their lives.
The Arafura sea and Pandanus lined shore - NT Museum & Art Gallery
Catching up with old friends and work associates had us going separate ways just for a change… Wednesday had George visiting his Russian friend Simeon Jurkijevic, the knife-maker out on his smallholding. While Lea spent an hour at her old school before catching a bus into the city to find Muriel Tait (nee Lappin) once a six year old student from way back… when Lea was just starting out as a teacher in Kariba. “Missy Moo” as she was known in those days came to live in Darwin with her husband Mike and their three daughters six months after we left. Lea found Muriel in her new business, Pressed for Time, amidst piles of ironing! Despite all her work, Muriel insisted on taking her old teacher out to a lovely lunch with her husband Mike joining them. And they talked non-stop!
Similarly, on Saturday, Lea was invited to rendezvous at Buzz Café with its decking overlooking the Cullen Bay Marina with three of her former teaching colleagues. At the same time George paid a visit to one of his scientific friends from his working days.
Many a Saturday evening when Lea’s school planning for the week had been completed, we would seek relaxation and refuge by camping overnight in our secret retreat on Leeders Creek, an hour out of the city. A mud map request prompted us to revisit. Predictably, as we travelled our rural back road we found much of the surrounding woodlands burning. This standard practice known as “cool burning” is designed to suppress the fuel load annually and thereby prevent devastating fires sweeping through. Would we reach our camp safely? Around the creek crossing the countryside was blackened by fire, logs still smouldering. Nevertheless, we took the little track off the road winding through the trees to our camp and found by a stroke of good fortune that the fire had stopped short of it. Evidence of previous uncaring occupants lay discarded around the camp fire. George cleared up the many empty beer cans and Lea freed up the unsightly leaf litter that had jammed behind the fallen log that creates a natural foot bridge and barrier over our section of creek. We soon had the pretty spot restored. Together with the shade and bush spa we had no difficulty keeping cool throughout the day. With our feet up and idly looking out through the under-storey of the dry woodlands dotted with cycads, each bearing brilliant green clusters of leaves, we’d hear the odd squawk of a passing red-tailed black cockatoo. So perfect!
Leeder's Creek spa
Having made the decision to head off to Kakadu next week and gradually make our way across to Cairns we booked an appointment with Dave Waite, the mobile caravan service man, to have Getaway’s wheels re-greased and electric brakes cleaned. During the course of this service lots of talking was done and we learnt much. Dave and his wife are fanatical barramundi fishermen from Queensland. Prior to every “Dry” they go fishing on the Gulf of Carpentaria before arriving in Darwin to work a 24/7 day to generate the money to live their dream. Now at the tail end of the tourist season he is preparing to return south via the Gulf for more fishing! Did we say he loves the sport of barramundi fishing? You bet – he even showed us his week old tattoo which came with a “3 weeks-after death” guarantee. Take a peek!
Barra tattoo on Dave Waite's back
A mud-map of Leeders Creek was drawn up for Guy as he’d requested and we set off to see him and meet his wife Dimity and their quaint little daughter Tanami. On a thickly wooded stand outside of Humpty Doo they have built the quintessential elevated Territory house for the climate. This wild and wonderful place had us standing on their top deck feeling as if we were growing with the trees. In the bush below bandicoots rummaged and hopped around feeding. This was once our dream to own a home and share the bush habitat around it with Australian creatures when we first immigrated. Instead we have a caravan with an ever changing view that often provides that for us.
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