Friday, September 29, 2017

Tramping tales from Penang - August 2017


 Our flight from Borneo brought us into Kuala Lumpur for a night in the Airport Hotel Sama Sama, as we arrived back too late, to make a connecting flight to Perth.  We had stayed in this hotel on a previous occasion and found it suited us perfectly. Either, we have aged or the hotel had undertaken refurbishment! When it came to bedtime and switching off the main lights – we could not do that! Perhaps the jungle had addled our brains as we searched long and hard for a switch, to no avail. Short of a domestic blow-out, George called the front desk expecting them to just tell us. No! they would send someone up which made us feel more sheepish.  It transpired that next to our bed was a small lap-top looking thing. It had a plan of the room lights enabling one to do it remotely. The square on the wall was a touch screen! All too hard for our tired brains to cope with a most technically up to date, hotel room. Next morning,  we had further choices, choices, choices! A bountiful breakfast almost overwhelmed us after the sheer simplicity of Jungle breakfasts.

When the notification for payment of our International flights had arrived from Dial-A-Flight, Dan who was generously picking up the tab, noticed our man Bailey had kindly noted that if we returned to Perth on the 24th or 28th of August we would save 600 pounds. As we could not fly on the first date we had planned to return on 25th. Although Dan would have saved the money, he persuaded us to fly on the 28th and go to Penang. We DID!  Dan still saved money and we spent a little more…  The fact that Justine and Daniel had gone to Penang persuaded us.  It was a short flight away and it conveniently left at a good time after breakfast. All we had to do was walk out of the hotel to our departure gate. Easy!


Map of Penang

We had used Hotel Booking.com after a long search through different internet companies finding hotels in our price range that seemed central to Old George Town and finally come up with Glow Hotel as our best bet as they had airport pick up. Our hefty luggage prevented us from using the bus service. Glow’s quick response to our emails eased any anxiety and they always ended with ‘Have a Glowing Day’! At Penang airport, Ravi was waiting for us with a sign! Born and brought up in Penang, he was enthusiastic about his country pointing out places of interest on the ride to our hotel and full of snippets to where best to go and what to do. Turned out he wasn’t part of the hotel but a company used by Glow to collect their guests. Reception was quick, friendly and incredibly helpful as they got us on our way to our room on the 8th floor.


 View from our bedroom

As soon as our luggage was in the room, we took off in the direction of our window view to ‘pound pavement’, find our bearings and explore. There wasn’t much to the pavements. Thanks to cars and motor bikes taking up space on broken sidewalks we found ourselves weaving in and out of all the obstructions to the noise of motorbikes haring en-mass up the roads. Stalls selling durian fruit were plentiful and further added to the congestion of sidewalks.  Tables were even available for serious fans of this King of Fruits and, judging by the busy trade going on, durian was in peak season.

Thankfully traffic lights had timers, giving drivers and pedestrians an indication of the next crossover exchange. This alleviated Lea’s nervous disorders when it came to traffic flow.  Eventually the humidity and street noise drove us into the Pragin Shopping Mall where we wandered from floor to floor until we reached the top of an escalator that brought us into an open reception area with no more shops. Somewhat bemused, we were about to return the way we’d come when a woman approached and told us we had reached the ‘House of Music’ – a History of the Penang music scene. She offered to have someone one come and explain the basics. We didn’t have the heart to say ‘no thanks’ and leave. Instead, we paid our money, were directed behind a curtain and shortly after a young man arrived and with the help of posters told us how the fusion music of Penang had resulted from its multicultural people. Before we knew, we were caught up in a well laid out and documented history with ear-phones to listen to music examples gaining a thorough understanding. Personalities came to the fore and the LP library was extensive with a variety of record players across the eras. We were rapt! A young girl took over and her enthusiasm was infectious. Turned out she was a classical guitarist completing a six-month work experience to gain confidence from public speaking and use her English. She was lovely especially when she took us into a music studio and began recording an interview with us.  We gained much from this unexpected find and hours were spent in there.

   House of Music

We returned to the streets and immediately felt the onslaught of heat and humidity as we kept walking with the sights, sounds and smells of busy streets assailing our every sense. Looked over Times Square with an eye to dinner. This was a very modern and incredibly spacious shopping centre with a huge promotion for China taking up pedestrian/corridor floor space, all beautifully done. We could have been in China! With our legs aching we looked for the tall Government building Ravi had wisely pointed out to us as a good landmark to finding ‘home’ and like homing pigeon made for that. However, hunger and thirst was catching up with us, and, we were certainly not brave enough to eat ‘street food’ despite long looks at what was on offer. Restaurants all looked closed up at that early hour. Once we had collapsed on our bed any thought of returning to the street was out of the question. George popped down to reception and discovered the hotel only served lunch and cakes in the café. He grabbed a ‘special’ pack of Tigers and we stayed in the comfort of our room and ate the rest of our pad-kos (road food) - brazil nuts washed down with cold beer. Not the best ending to our day – tomorrow will be better!

We’d consciously hear the call to Prayer by the muezzin for Fajr (early morning), Maghrib (sunset) and Isha’a (night) and we found ourselves listening to the unusually deep baritone voice sweeping across the area.  Despite the early hour of Saturday’s melodious call we rolled over and slept until 9. Reception helped us locate Old Town on a map and called the far cheaper ‘Grab’ car rather than a taxi for us. Grab is a Uber equivalent and again, like Uber, the driver was very helpful and the trip easy and economical. He dropped us in Armenian Street, the heart of the UNESCO World Heritage site. First up, we had to EAT!


My Armenian Café caught our eye, obviously new and different in that the walls were covered in packing crates which put Lea in mind of one of her favourite Lift the flap children’s book ‘Dear Zoo’ by Rod Campbell.  Turned out the inspiration came from the film ‘Madagascar’ and we admired the animals. We came in for breakfast and ended up enjoying a massive sugar hit of delicious salted caramel and chocolate cheesecake with our tea/coffee, instead. 

Armenian Street

Rejuvenated, we happily wandered the streets noticing the variety of shutters in all sizes and stages of decomposition and weathering on buildings. This weathering added something to the atmosphere of the area; it did not detract from being heritage listed.


Intricate tile work outside colonial era shophouses, narrow walkways and alleys. 


Little shops chose to feature a creature. Here, all things owls … another all things cats.

George was waylaid by an old man with his trishaw while he loitered outside a shop Lea was in, offering   to take him round the street art, for which Georgetown is famous for.


Neither of us could turn him down despite our qualms re his age and our joint weight! We were in for the ride of our life and the best spent money- we didn’t even haggle such was our respect for this fine old chap.

At the first mural, having no expectations, we politely sat and quietly admired it until he insisted we jump out and interact with a ‘Boy on a chair’ and take a better photo, then indicated others in the area. No sooner back in our trishaw than the clouds opened and down came the rain. Undaunted our chauffeur, leapt down from behind us; pulled out a canopy ensuring we remained dry! We had no brolly or wet gear thus we couldn’t have been luckier to be on the trishaw at that moment in time.  Once, we left the quiet street and entered the hustle and bustle of many lanes of traffic and weaving motor cyclists - the horror of putting our lives in the old man’s hands amid wet roads overwhelmed us both. Just as well, the canopy kept us oblivious of a good deal as our vulnerability, when cars stopped a hair’s breath from our knees, set our hearts beating wildly. In hindsight, drivers were most considerate and aware really. 
          
It is hard to do justice to the Street Art hidden away in many odd spots or side streets and unexpected corners and walls.  We’d never have experienced the richness of it all, if we’d gone looking on our own.


Lithuanian artist Ernest Zacharevic, has the most photographed 
and delightfully playful murals in George Town. 

He was invited to Penang over the George Town Festival in 2012 and given the theme ‘Mirrors George Town’ which to our mind, was wide open and difficult. This young artist produced exuberant and humorous children scenes, to the streets. Once seen, never forgotten for their joi de vivre.


Other artists were invited to add cat themed art to the streets in the hopes 
of creating more awareness to homeless strays. These are just a few!


Years later the city council commissioned steel rod caricatures of 
Penang’s ‘Way of Life’   from a local company ‘Sculpture at Work’.

Way back, in our heads, Basketball was a game Americans played against their garage doors… Until our daughter, Justine began playing basketball at school and was picked for Natal Under 18’s in Pietermaritzburg. We decided we’d better get up there and watch a big match. The noise of rhythmic clapping and stomping and the high-speed bouncing of ball from one end of the court to the other caught us by surprise and we were soon involved in the excitement. Justy was passionate about the game and soon played for the Natal Under 21’s as well.  When she came home for a weekend bringing her dirty laundry her mother was horrified by the large number of socks amongst the basketball kit… mostly borrowed as she’d forgotten to send to the school laundry! Once, Justine's  children were all at school she returned to basketball and began coaching and encouraging schools to play the sport. Even under extreme chemo, her will and passion to continue nurturing the game and support the teams she had developed at their matches or practises, continued to virtually the end of her life.  Thus, when we came across this gem by Ernest Zacharevic, with a young tourist about to interact in a slam dunk as his friend photographed him, it became a meaningful moment.  A fun moment!  The photographer turned and showed Lea the active slow-motion photo taken on his mobile phone camera.  She was blown away and asked for a copy. He turned to his friend – the basketballer for permission. Out of nowhere, grief hit with force and Lea struggled to explain that her daughter had just died – to their credit their understanding was immediate and it was e-mailed it to us. Sadly, my camera didn’t cope with all the action and that particular photo went missing!


‘Sister and brother playing basketball’


Of course, we could not pass up the monkey amongst our photos; particularly as Lea captured Monkey man looking at his reflection.  (magnificent monkey eyes)


That old man interacting with this Street Art took us on a memorable, 
magical hour-long excursion for 50 Malaysian Ringgits (£10) in his Trishaw

Such was our exhilaration we were sorry when it was over. It certainly rates as the highlight of our trip to Penang. Hunger pangs again.  We’d heard much about the good food in George Town and up until now with our minds occupied by art we hadn’t noticed any place to eat in. Before we could really look around for a suitable café, the skies opened again and we were forced to take refuge in the closest place, set behind palm trees and stepping stones. Turned out to be a bakery with seating. We chose from the glass counter and dried off with tissues as they prepared our toasted garlic breads … which turned out to be over-done rather than succulent!

Once the rain had settled to a drizzle we left for the Jetty. Mindful of the water swirling down roads   headed for choked drains, ducking umbrellas on narrow almost non-existent pavements and slippery spots.



Chew Jetty Scenes
 Chew Jetty is a settlement of wooden houses on stilts with shop fronts in some cases, overlooking a narrow passage of rustic wooden planks. This walkway, capable of becoming incredibly congested. We were lucky that light rain kept many away in the temple shelter as we carefully took our walk down Chew Alley.  This jetty is the more famous of the clan jetties where migrant families of the same name live together in an area and in turn, become a living heritage that exists to this day.

The rain had effectively cooled down the humid conditions that we didn’t mind braving the traffic and walking home towards evening time by our clock not the sunset! Not far from Glow Hotel, standing out with its huge, bright red signage ‘De Happy’; we found a massive open barn-like structure with tables ready and stretching back a long way. Welcoming staff at the entrance way, happy to serve us at that relatively early hour.  There, we tucked into our best meal yet in Penang. Tasty prawns for Lea and  George chose beef in a black pepper sauce – both served with fried rice and garlicky bok choy washed down with large Tiger beers. YUM!

Our plan for Sunday was to have reception order another Grab for us and head for Penang Hill. There we’d catch the funicular to the top and enjoy a day on the summit with its flower garden, mini bird park and owl museum and come home by bus. However, when we were dropped at the Train entrance with military supervising the turning circle – we were staggered by the queues. Massive queues to buy tickets for the funicular and another massive queue waiting for the funicular. We observed for a bit then looked at each other and said ‘not for us’ simultaneously.  We walked back to the turning circle wondering where to go next and how to get away from there.  Almost immediately a Penang Hop-on Hop-off double decker drew in and we dashed over to catch it. Only to sit in the front seat on top deck for fifteen minutes. With a route map in hand we decided we would do a round and orientate ourselves. Two routes - the city and at the interchange, the beach. Thereafter, depending on bus timing we’d either have High Tea at the famous Great Eastern & Oriental Hotel or a walk in the Botanical Gardens followed by a gin and tonic refresher at the famous colonial hotel before taking the last leg back on our ‘24hr HoHo ticket’ to Komtar, as the closest stop and easy walking distance to Glow Hotel. All sorted so we thought!

George dug around in his backpack for the Penang Tourism pamphlet, Riva had given us on arrival, as the HoHo bus pulled away. Too many tourist places to visit but with this in hand we'd probably ‘see’ many and that would be good enough for our fleeting two days. Being a Sunday, the streets were heaving with Sunday markets as we made slow progress to Kek Lok Si, a monumentally large temple with a commanding view out to the coast from the foot slope of Penang Hill. Built over a period 1890 to 1930 on 30 acres of land – it is said to be the largest Buddhist Temple in SE Asia. We could see the 7 storied, handcrafted ‘Pagoda of Ten Thousand Buddhas’ and the striking Four Heavenly Kings Pavilion from our bedroom window.

From our seats on the bus, the magnitude of this ‘Temple of Supreme Bliss’ loomed above us. 

We recognised many of the George Town landmarks we’d walked the previous day and a bit and, thanks to more traffic congestion, we were glad when we finally reached Gurney Drive, the seafront promenade well known for its open-air hawker place and Gurney Plaza. The tide was well out and the exposed muddy flats reminded us of the first time we saw Cairns beach front – a very disappointing look; water makes a big difference! The HoHo Interchange was here and we hopped off to wait for the Coastal Hoho. Discovered there would be a wait and decided we would find lunch in the imposing Plaza- British India.    Food of every description seemed to be on offer, lots of Malaysian dishes that we were overawed by the choices. As we neared the far end of the massive food hall we spotted a big sign for Cendol. A bell rang in our heads – Yahya had told us to be sure to try a Cendol! We knew nothing about the dish - it seemed to have green beans and sweet corn within.


We ordered one, and a passer-by said, we’d never regret buying 
it as Cendol was the ultimate in flavours!

First up, it wasn’t savoury but a dulled sweetness and chilled. We discovered ‘cendol is popular nationwide and this moreish, sweet dessert has attained an almost revered status’. Somewhat like a knickerbocker Glory culturally changed; it incorporated finely shaved ice, coconut milk ice-cream, sweet corn and soft reddish- beans but the green strips were not green beans… They were green jelly strips handmade out of pandan leaves (screw-pine) with a firm springy chew not like we know sweet jelly to be. This, was the all-important cendol. All, was topped with a key ingredient - smoky, caramel like gula melaka (palm sugar) to sweeten.   Cendol is considered to offer an incredible reprieve from the heat.  It did not prove to be a signature dish for our palates!  We tried a few more, tasty ‘things’, no idea what, before dashing back to the Interchange. The Beach Decker came in minutes later and we climbed to the top and sat up front again. On the opposite seat, an Australian from the Gold Coast   we’d notice on the previous Hoho, sight-seeing from the top of a bus, like us.

We thoroughly enjoyed the Beach route along the narrow road in places, with the canopy of trees swooshing the bus as we wound our way along the coast. We had a good sighting of Malaysia’s first ever Floating Mosque. Another big structure with a seven-storey minaret. Miami Beach followed by Batu Ferringhi which was obviously the tourist mecca with huge hotels- we even spotted a Hard Rock Cafe. We felt a measure of relief that we hadn’t come to this area as it just did not have the authentic Penang feel compared to our side. 

Beach Scenes along the route.

We finally reached the entrance to Penang National Park and turned around. A good part of the afternoon had fast disappeared and we still had to get back. Oh no, after thinking we were homeward the HoHo turned inland for the last two stops of Taman Rimba - The Forest Recreation Park and Museum and finally Entopia, a lush tropical sanctuary and vivarium for the ‘little dwellers’ on our planet - butterflies, dragon flies and fireflies.  A twenty-minute wait followed; the driver disappeared and we sat in the hot sun. George thought he could see a sculpture of a water buffalo mauling something… at the entrance door to Entopia. He scurried over to take a closer look… 


Eyesight failing? He found two magnificent sculptures of a Rhinoceros Beetle 
and Big Black Beetle about to lock horns. 
 George couldn’t resist a photo of our HoHo as he came back.

Looking at our watches as we pulled off on the home stretch of this Beach route we realised these Stops at the popular, most visited landmarks in and around George Town all required lengthy visiting times often a good day to to see around hence the twenty-minute intervals and distance covered was not going to allow us to accomplish what we had planned. On the plus side, we’d seen a lot more of the George Town region. However, as we reached the Interchange the thought of more hours didn’t appeal. The Australian leapt off saying she was catching a taxi as she’d had enough. We endured a re-run up to Penang Hill, Kek Lok Si and round again. After six hours on the bus we alighted at Chowrasta. It had looked a busy and interesting area, first time round. From our map, we saw we could stretch our legs and find our way home. The crowds had disappeared and shops were closing. Thwarted yet again! We strolled home, taking a huge interconnecting overpass only to find it was under construction in the direction we needed to go. By the time we neared our landmark UMNO building our bellies were rumbling and George ever the homing pigeon for the familiar wanted De Happy beef!  The staff recognised us and welcomed us back.


And so, our Penang sojourn ended, the next day was airport time. A very interesting driver collected us and on the way out to the airport spoke of the island’s way of life, its independent island Government and its diversity. He spoke seven languages - we were impressed. It was back to Kuala Lumpur and through to Perth. Thankfully only a five-hour flight as our seats were the worst ever experienced. They backed onto the mid-aisle toilets subjecting us to ceaseless flushing noise. Constant opening and closing of not only that door but the toilet door opposite which was more unpleasant as odours wafted across.  And, inconsiderate people queuing for toilets leant against the seat in front of Lea, their bulk or movement interfering with her movie viewing. We were glad to land and have that final leg behind us.     

We were back in Australia...


No comments: